Final help installing JDM h22a in civic hatch

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no resistor box?!?!?!!
this is new, i've heard of people not using them, and i know my motor is from a 97 up. what about JDM
do you have any documentation that tells about these injecotrs?

thanks for the info.
 
according to Allmotorhonda.com the injectors are of the saturated type. Which is the same as the civic. You only need a resistor box when you use peak and hold injectors. This is because they are a higher impedance.
 
sweet on the injectors, i'll try it without the injector box
i finally got up and ordered teh final parts, so everything is starting when we get those.
aiming for high 12s with nitrous and slicks in the spring
anyone with this swap done please post your times, also i am looking for speed upgrades, no necessarily HP gains. If i can get some shocks that'll take .10 off that is as good as some funky injecors that can do the same. I've heard that NA cars really really benefit from fuel, so i am looking into a 255 pump with some kind of controller, probably SAFC. I want to work with VTEC as much as i can, but i dont even know how to tune a VAFC, which is what i am using for vtec.
oh, if anyone knows how to make a VTEC LED for my dash, i could really use one.

thanks everyone for posting
 
for your LED you can splice a wire off of your vtec soleniod (+) and run it to an LED mounted in the car. In oreder for the LED to work, you gotta use a resistor.

http://www.utahnature.com/errs/ledproject.html

s3ff5d873c3693.jpg
 
AWESOME!
i LOVE it when people will take some tiem out to draw something like that, someone who obviously just wants to help me out, to help out the scene.
thanks so much rudeludenotmeanthough
parts still arent here, but they've shipped.
vtec project is today now that i have wiring diagrams,
 
well the transition is well underway, the old motor is out, and the engine bay is cleaned, i got high off of the gallon of kerosine i used to clean the bay. i am working on the shifter assembly fittment right now, but any information should be helpful.
i have a few links with instructions to the swap and will post them here, if anyone has one with info for putting an H22 into a 92-95 eg civic, then PLEASE post them. I am sure i found things that you didnt, and i hope you did the same.

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0309ht_swap/
http://h22acivic.com/9295H22aswap.phtml
http://jdmshit.com/hcp/EGfitment/index.html
http://www.9krpm.com/store_hasport.html
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=604999
https://hondaswap.com/articles/viewer.php?id=29

well i'm off to go do some more swapping.
good luck on your winter builds
 
yeah the resistor box is for peak and hold style injectors and if you dont use it i think eventually the injectors may fry or the main injector relay in the computer, which is what happened to my car. I just picked up some RC saturated ones this time.
 
okay, well the swap is done, and man what a bunch of crap i had to do
today we got the motor running, and the car driving fine, it has gone 70 miles and i have it idling (with an open header) at just under 1000 rpm.
the throttle is really jerkey down low, but i am sure that is a product of no exhaust, sub-zero temperatures, and a motor that hasnt ran for at least 4 months.
the hardest part was physically fitting the engine in the bay, we had to grind the valve cover, the enginge mounts, the transmission, and the AC condensor mounts.
we had to remove the AC, the fan, and some other stuff.
the vaccum lines were a b**ch too, but i can post pics of them so people can know what we blocked off, and what else we sent to where

the one hardest part (now thinking more) was the MAP sensor, (manifold absolute pressure) the jdm prelude one is on the firewall, so i didnt get that, and the civic one is on the throttle body, so isnt meant to have a vaccum line ran to it. Basically we retro-fitted a vaccum to the small bung on the bottom of it (that stuck into the throttle body) and clamped it with a zip-tie.

there is more, but it is 2AM and i have to get up at 7
so good night!
i'll finish posting soon

NOW GO TO AEIPERFORMANCE.COM
 
now the car has been running for a few days, and it is going well, but there are still a few hiccups i have to deal with

note - i still am running an open header, and do not have a resistor box for the injectors, these may be the causes of many of the problems.

-i dont know where all of the vacuum lines go (from the intake manifold and throttle body)
-the engine idles at about 1100 rpm
-the engine will not run smoothly under 2000 rpm, it surges, then lags, then surges. if you are slowly revving steadily at about 1800rpm it sounds like wooo000schhwooo000schh, i dont know what is causing this. it even happens while driving, causing the car to buck while starting, but the engine has never died because of it.
-i get check engine lights 14 and 6, one of them is a coolnt temp sensor that i probably extended and wired backwards.
-i seem to be only getting about 20 mpg

one last thing, i want to run all clear tubing in the engine bay, including radiator hoses. i need something that can be bent with a 6" radius, it must be able to take 200 degrees F, and it must be clear.

if anyone has any ideas that could help me with these problems, keep posting!

thanks
MIKE
 
okay, this is what i need.
a picture of a prelude's vacuum lines from the throttle body and intake manifold.
i am still getting error codes 6 and 14, i think 14 is my problem causing me to not be able to run slowly, my car has to accelerate, or it surges.
thanks
MIKE
 
I wish I could help you, sounds like you're working hard on this project. Pictures might make things easier.
 
well i got an injector resistor box for 10 bucks, and that just made everyhting EVERYTHING different.
before, i think i was running extremely rich, because now i cannot get traction in first or second gear.
i have a full interior, and i weigh 140 lbs. the car stock is 2094 (vx) and i had 2 240lb passengers. and 100lbs of tools. I think the motor is 200lbs heavier than stock.
so my car was grossing 3014 lbs on a dry road, with dry, warm stock VX 13" aluminum 9.5lb wheels and all-season tires, and i was going about 15, i punched the throttle to full (which doesnt even open my butterfly valve all of the way (i'll have to work on that later) and my wheels just spun to redline, then i shifted to second, and AGAIN i spun to redline. The car was still accelerating hard, but i could not get traction.
this would not have been the case before the injector resistor box.
so now i am still wondering two things.

-i have check engine lights 14 and 6 still. if i reset the ecu i dont get 14 for about a minute, weather the engine is warm or cold,

-and evry time i start the car, warm or cold, it runs smooth for about 5 mins, then doesnt seem to take less than about 15% throttle, so starting is impossible wtihout launching, and cruising isnt ever going to happen, the car just accelerates, then when i give it less and less gas, it will buck forward and sound like i just downshifted to slow down.

-also i dont know where any of the vacuum lines go, there are four on the intake manifold, and one on a fuel looking thing behind the valve cover on the pass side.
(this isnt really a problem yet though.

-i do have a friend with a preludeV that is going to take pics of his (now stored) engine this week, and see if i can get the vacuum lines figured out.

---my best guess is that i have the engine coolant temp sensor and the idle air controll plug switched, but if i swap them, i still get the same performance, and the same check engine lights.

-as always, any help would be greatly appreciated.
MIKE
 
so i bought a 1997 honda civic hatch with a h22a swap. when i bought the car it didnt have a coil or ecu. so i bought a P28 Ecu and had it chipped to run the h22a. then i noticed there was no plug on he civic harness to plug the h22a external coil in at. the plugs on the bigger plugthat goes from the harness to the distributor has black,green,white,yellow,red, blue,wht/blue. and the little plug has a big blk/yellow wire that has power going to it, and a blue wire. but the big plug coming off the distributor has 8 wires the is an extra wire that is green. i have tried to hook a standard msd blaster 2 coil up to the harness and a stock h22a coil and i still dont get spark. also the fuel pump doesnt turn on unless i hard wire it to the battery. does anyone know how i can get spark????? what wires are the right wires and where do the hook up??? i cant figure it out.
 
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