Finally dyno'd the B16 today

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and i never said you can tune really good with just a chip <--which isnt a tunable part(its pretuned) and a FR. thats ridiculous....you might as well leave it alone.

actually you can tune the chip; which is pretty much what Hondata, Crome, Uberdata, etc. is; software to tune the maps on the chip. You can hook up a emulator to the ECU where the chip goes and be able to run maps straight off of a laptop instead having to reburn a chip everytime you make changes...
 
Those are some nice dyno numbers man. :)

How difficult is it to tune a motor once you upgrade the cams to stage 2? What other parts (ie cam gears, fpr, vafc, etc) are necessary to tune it, or do you just ecu tune it?
 
you tune afr first. if your a diy tuner, you can do this without a dyno provided you have a wideband o2 sensor, tuning program like crome or uberdata, and a chip burner. but with more aggressive cams, you can benefit from tuning the cam timing too. you really have to do this on a dyno so you can see what difference its making on the power.
 
actually you can tune the chip; which is pretty much what Hondata, Crome, Uberdata, etc. is; software to tune the maps on the chip. You can hook up a emulator to the ECU where the chip goes and be able to run maps straight off of a laptop instead having to reburn a chip everytime you make changes...
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ONCE YOU BURN THE CHIP ITS PRETTY MUCH NON TUNABLE...OF COURSE LIKE YOU SAID YOUR USING HONDATA OR ECU SYSTEMS LIKE THAT. EVEN IN THAT CASE YOUR NOT REALLY TUNING A CHIP YOU HAVE A FULLY PROGRAMABLE COMPUTER. I MEAN I CANT PLUG SOMETHING INTO MY SKUNK CHIP AND MAKE ADJUSTMENTS UNLESS I HAVE ANOTHER CHIP BURNED. THATS WHAT I WAS SAYING.

OH IM GETTING MY h23 BOTTOM END TODAY HOPEFULLY NEXT WEEK I WILL TUNE IT AFTER THE BREAK IN PERIOD. GONNA HAVE A PORTED HEAD WITH UPGRADED VALVETRAIN.., PORTED STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD AND A h23 BOTTOM END WITH OVERSIZED TYPE S PISTONS...BLOCK BORED 25 OVER. AND ALL NEW BEARINGS AND MICRO POLISHED H23 CRANK.
 
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ONCE YOU BURN THE CHIP ITS PRETTY MUCH NON TUNABLE...OF COURSE LIKE YOU SAID YOUR USING HONDATA OR ECU SYSTEMS LIKE THAT. EVEN IN THAT CASE YOUR NOT REALLY TUNING A CHIP YOU HAVE A FULLY PROGRAMABLE COMPUTER. I MEAN I CANT PLUG SOMETHING INTO MY SKUNK CHIP AND MAKE ADJUSTMENTS UNLESS I HAVE ANOTHER CHIP BURNED. THATS WHAT I WAS SAYING.

if you dont want to go through burning; you can use an emulator like Ostrich. It allows you to change the maps and settings without burning anything(aka Real-Time Programming). Sort of like a very powerful V-AFC but its more than a V-AFC will ever be.

a standalone programmable computer still uses a EPROM; it makes changes to the EPROM so in essence its still modifiying the chip but doesnt need an external source to do it. You can bypass the skunk2 chip; get yourself an emulator, a ECU program, and maybe a Laptop(or regular computer at the dyno or something). You can make all the adjustments you want without burning a chip, and have WAY more flexibility and options than a VAFC.
 
See my sig for what you need for tuning your car the right way. :) And I probably spent about what you did on yoour VAFC and vtec controller, minus the tablet pc and wideband.
 
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you tune afr first. if your a diy tuner, you can do this without a dyno provided you have a wideband o2 sensor, tuning program like crome or uberdata, and a chip burner. but with more aggressive cams, you can benefit from tuning the cam timing too. you really have to do this on a dyno so you can see what difference its making on the power.

I was told by Gude that a p30 chip cannot be tuned, that I need to get myself a p28 chip in order to be able to reprogram the ecus maps. Is this correct?
 
any obd1 ecu can be tuned if its chiped. if you have a p30 ecu thats chipped you most certainly can tune it. most people use p28's though cause they are cheaper
 
bambam said:
I'm sorry, but imma call bullshit on this one. There's no way you dynoed a B16 with that much torque. I've seen fully built B16's put down less torque. Post a dyno sheet pal.

All you have is an intake, header and exhaust. Those cams don't give you that much HP with that low of compression. You can't be any higher than 10.6:1.

As for Stock B16's putting out 145....that's a healthy ass motor. You'd be lucky to hit 140 w/ all the bolt ons.

What are you using for tuning? I'm sorry, i just don't believe this. how high are you revving? because those cams don't make any power till almost 8k RPM and you have a stock computer? where did your power and torque peak at?

I work at an Import shop and I've NEVER seen a B16 dyno that high even with serious mods.

I'd call BS on this too. But as far 145 on near stock engine? EASY. I put down 147.9 with an old dirty K&N filter on 2.5 AEM pipe, 2" Bosal exhaust, no cat, spoon headgasket, UR single belt pulley, and stock header and ECU on my 1st gen B16A. Going to be trying out Blox A cams soon and then i'll post up a dyno sheet...also check out InterTune.Tv - Home of Omniman's 200whp B16 Video DVD Resource
 
way to bring back threads from the dead... lol
 
nice first post.

this thread is over 3 years old. please check the dates before posting.

:locked:
 
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