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Finally Setting up...here we go.

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by CRXSI91, May 19, 2005.

  1. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    iight..i got someone buyin the EG hatch next week..so thats 1500 in my pocket,which is enough to pick up a pieced together setup that my friend had on his 99 si...the setup comes with :

    Greddy T3/t4 turbo
    Spearco front mount intercooler
    All piping (probably wont fit,cus your going from a ek chassis to ef)
    Turbo manifold (will probably have clearance issues)
    greddy BOV
    turbo timer
    boost controller



    i dont know if it comes with injectors...but thats what i made the thread for....today i plan on buying some RC 450 cc injectors for my setup...i needed to know if i supposed to go with peak/hold injectors or saturated...seeing as i WANT to go to an obd1 platform (to use hondata)...or just stay obd0 and get someone to chip and tune my ecu...i dont know which route to go as of yet..and i need to know before i order these injectors..


    also,i wanted to buy a skunk2 intake manifold today as well..because i cant figure out anymore turbo stuff to buy...i mean i know i want to get a Gm 3bar map sensor and some other stuff,but i want to order that later..anyone got any suggestions??


    so far ive got :

    STR fuel rail
    Walbro 255 lph intank fuel pump



    if i could get some advice and help here,it would be much appreciated.

    :worthy: :worthy: :worthy:
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    this is going on what car and what motor??
     
  3. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    the 91 crx HF in my signature...it has a b18a1 in it.
     
  4. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    it doesn't matter.

    if you use peak/hold, you keep the resistor box in the car
    if you go saturated, you remove the resistor box.

    either will work with obd1 or 0 so long as they are wired up correctly.

    IMO, if 450 is your target size, just get some DSM 450's for like $50. they are peak/hold.



    the skunk2 mani is better suited for all motor. look into something with larger runners like the JG edelbrok, blox, AEBS, full-race, etc...



    the 3-bar must be set on the enging mangement to run the 3-bar voltage range... so make sure you have all the bugs worked out first, and you have an engine manageemnt system that supports the 3-bar.



    you can't make dick for power if you can't put it down and use it.

    -clutch
    -tires
    -traction bars
    -and port that ls head. thats going to hold you back a lot.
     
  5. adnoh

    adnoh Senior Member

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    :werd:

    The 3-bar isn't going to help you out at the present time with a stock LS engine...it'll just give the ability to blow it up quicker. Yay for more boost on a stock engine!!!

    Also, that fuel rail wont count for dick...... stock rail will be fine for your application.

    I'd agree with Brian,

    Clutch, tires, and do something about that god-awfull LS head.

    :ph34r:
     
  6. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    how are u gonna agree with someone that doesnt agree with you?



    theres been plenty of times where brian has said u can hold about 300 hp on a stock ls block....so what the hell are u saying that agrees with him??

    a stock block doesnt mean anything on the contrary to what you are saying..if u listen to all the people here..they say tuning is more important than building the block....ever remember B saying this? :

    "id rather take Hondata and a stock block,and boost it,then take a fmu with some forged rods and pistons"


    so dont try to feed me this "yay for boost on a stock block' garbage..cus its been done before..i know what im doing,because ive researched.

    im already building the LS head...aint nothin god awful about it...not everyone wants "vtec Yo!"...some people can do without it...actually lots of people do without it..and crush the people that have it.


    anyways. back to the important input :


    The shop that i get my stuff from,cant get a price on the RC 450 cc injectors....so where would i be able to find them at?

    i guess ill be getting the JG manifold..but should i get it before or after i build the head??

    i talked to some people about the CC injectors i will be running...now i remember someone saying 450's will top out around the 220hp range...but im trying to make it to atleast 250...so what should i be trying to go with?
     
  7. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    importparts.com
    wiredspeedlab.com



    how about at the same time? :p



    450s max out around 250 give or take... personally, i'd go a little bigger. better to have more room to play with. 550's, 650s, or 750's are all available from RC... but thats about it... your slightly better off on the ls, due to its lower redline. there won't be as much duty cycle at 7k as there is at 8500.
     
  8. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    ok...i finally got it...i bought the setup..it came with :


    Garrett t3/t4 A/R 50 turbo
    TiAL 32 (or 35,i dont know yet) mm Wastegate
    Front mount intercooler
    Hks bov
    Intercooler piping
    2.5'' downpipe
    Greddy turbo timer
    Greddy FMU


    im not using the FMU,the HKS bov,i dont know if the downpipe will bolt up,due to the fact that a lot of this stuff came off a 99-00 Si...i also dont know about the Intercooler piping...


    right now im working on getting some remanufactured DSM injectors,and after that...im looking into Engine management...im not sure if i should get my ecu chipped,and tuned...or just get hondata...i mean hondata s200b would be nice...but isnt there just a way i can get a hondata chip put in my ecu,that has the fuel maps and stuff that i need for my setup???

    anyways,i know i need some other stuff..but im trying to find out the necessities i need right now...anyone got any ideas..let me know.
     
  9. preludebuddy

    preludebuddy Senior Member

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    you should get it tuned after hondata. you can use someone else's maps but personally i believe that its a bad idea.
    another necessity is oil lines.
     
  10. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    yea,i was thinkin about that...


    the turbo already has a steel braided line about a half inch thick running from one side of the turbo...then it has a big hole on the other side..i guess for the Feed line..i dont know which one is the feed,and which one is the return side..how many lines am i supposed to run beside feed and return?
     
  11. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    none. it has a -3 feed, and a -10 return line.

    if it has more, it is also watercooled, and will need to be tapped into your coolant system, or blocked off.

    and look into uberdata.
     
  12. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    ok right now my setup consists of :


    garrett t3/t4
    Fmic
    Tial wastegate
    STR fuel rail
    Walbro 255 fuel pump
    DSM 440cc injectors


    im currently working on getting Hondata..but i wanted to know...would it be in my best "interest" to add a block guard to this setup?? there only 100 dollars..and it seems like a good investment to have..


    things i need to work on :

    My exhaust piping (2'25'' piping is way too small,i know..but would i run the risk of damaging the turbo/motor if i dont upgrade to atleast 2.5 or 3??)
    Headwork
    oil lines
    oil pan

    thats all i can think of...if anyone has any input,feel free to share.
     
  13. projectxspeed

    projectxspeed Senior Member

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    The only time that installing a block guard is a good idea is if you want an excuse to buy a new motor

    block guard = :bash:
     
  14. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    theres no such thing as dsm 440 cc injectors. you probably mean 450's.

    blockguards are worthless. you're better off without it.

    skip hondata... you're obd0, turboedit is your friend. and its free.

    the exahust won't harm anything to say, but you won't make crap for power.
     
  15. adnoh

    adnoh Senior Member

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    CRXSI91:





    WTF? If jumping to Conclusions was an Olympic sport, you'd get the gold metal.



    I was agreeing with his post on a whole, shit-for-brains.



    This still doesn't deny the fact that you have no use for a 3-Bar MAP sensor with stock internals. You can run 9.24 PSI Without it. Why the hell would you want to go over that on a stock block anyways? Considering this is probably your first turbo project, which is cool, try running 7-8 PSI to start off, then get the extra insurance of forged internals before you start to turn up the boost. If you want an engine thats going to be reliable, steer clear of the 3-bar for now. This will help you avoid the urge to crank up boost, or skrew up while tuning, resulting in damage.



    really? Drop me your ZIP code, I just baked a batch of Oatmeal Raisin cookies....they smell fantastic, I'll be happy to give you one if you'd like.



    The Stock LS head is the ash-tray of B-Series heads. No way around that. It'll be fine with some work. And seriously dude....the people who are using non-VTEC heads who are "crushing" the ones with, are most likely using VTEC heads with killer-cams.



    Dude, you're going to have a hard time getting info around here if you're just going to snap, and dis-regard peoples input. Try asking for clarification next time.
     
  16. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    I'm not reading the whole thing.

    I've had 3 LS's. The head really is a peice of shit compared to any b series head. It flows no where near what a vtec head does.

    I can honestly say they can flow better then a vtec head with some work, but a b16 head for example with the same type of work will defenitly outflow it.

    It's defenitly useable though. I'm not sure what your goals are but it's capable of 300 HP in stock form.
     
  17. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    as u can see...i only take input from people who dont go around acting like they build the best motors in the world,and know everything..so that would exclude you...if u put your posts across as helping instead of "scolding" maybe i would listen to you..but whats the point? B apparently knows more than you do..so i will listen to him.


    im not even gonna go thru all your rants...ill just put it like this,
    you made some points,but without putting them in a respectable manner,im gonna keep "disregarding" everything u say...im not trying to have my thread closed over some stupid shit,so im going to go back to what i was trying to do in the first place....set up for turbo.

    as far as the Vtec head vs. the LS head battle...i dont have the time to do the ls vtec head swap...its just gonna delay my plans on boosting even more if i buy a b16 head...then have to get an ecu,conversion harness,any other pieces the head didnt come with,the ls vtec conversion kit...bore out the dowel pins,remove the oil squirters...then when i want to boost..i gotta drop compression..and then resume trying to turbo....that shit would take too long...so im going to USE what i got...and build the ls head...and MAKE it flow as good as a VTEC head....sound good to you?
     
  18. adnoh

    adnoh Senior Member

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    My First post:





    CRXSI91: Your first reply to me.











    And we continue:








    I rest my case.






    I hear ya loud and clear buddy.

    I was just trying to help. Good luck with your turbo project.
     
  19. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    i appreciate the help.



    now back to the subject...a few more Qs


    -I have a 2.5'' downpipe....would it be smart to run a 2.5'' downpipe to a 3'' inch exhaust? cus i heard that for smaller hp applications,that is a smarter route.

    -Intercooler piping? i have a lot..but i dont know how big the pipes should be...about 2'' right?

    - Ecu fuel/air tables...call me whatever u want..but i do not want to go inside my ecu and start messing with sockets and shit...is there anyone that yall know of on this site,or on another where i can send off my ecu,and ask for a certain air/fuel setup or certain options for my ecu so i can have my car tuned?? or is there a way i can buy an ecu made for boost or something? since im not converting to obd1...hondata is out the question.

    map sensor - the REASON why i wanted the 3bar..is so i wouldnt have to "hack" or trick the map sensor into reading boost..i dont want any CEL's if possible..so i wanted to get a map sensor that could read it..i dont know if getting the 3bar would help that...but that was my idea...any ideas?


    ill come up with some more Q's later...right now im going to research some more stuff. :worthy: :worthy:
     
  20. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    that will be fine. and it also gives you the option to go to a larger downpipe later on without having to change the exahust.



    2 to 2 1/2 is the range most setups use. 2 might be a little on the tiny side. basically, you want to use whatever fits best-- if your turbo outlet and intercooler outlets are 2", go 2"... its just going to bottle neck anyway if you go bigger.



    well, yes and no.
    IMO, going to obd1 is the best solution. the ecu's are way more friendly.
    but if that is not an option, all is not lost.

    you can send your ecu to many places to have it socketed. i don't blame you-- i bought mine as well. i don't have a steady hand, and suck at soldering. :p there's plenty of people here who can do it for you. make a post in the classifieds, like who can chip my ecu or something. i don't want to name names and then leave some one out and play favoriets... theres too many to keep track of :p



    you don't need a 3-bar.
    obd0 map sensors can read about 9.5 psi of boost.
    obd 1, about 11 psi.
    its the ECU that doesn't know what to do with the reading, and thus throws the code.
    but one you have a chip in there with boost tables, sending that voltage to the computer is not a problem.

    so, as long as you have an ecu that can read boost tables, and don't plan to run more than 9 psi, you don't need a 3-bar.

    keep in mind, when tuning or getting a chip made happens, the 3-bar and the 1.7/1.8 bar (oem) maps use the SAME 0-5v operating range-- so you need to make sure you have the right settings. you CAN'T just throw the 3 bar on. you will have to re-spec the chip to be aware that its on a 3-bar map reading now.




    you've got questions, we've got answers ®

    lol
     
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