I have a 95 civic cx with a problem, i know this is a swap site but i suspect there is some pretty wise honda guys who have seen it before here. Its the 1.5 16v engine. It idles up and down and has a hard time stabilizing the idle. I have cleaned throttle body, both idle bypass mechanisms, has no codes, coolant level ok. Substituted a used coolant temp sensor, didn't seem to help but it was used so not a known good one. Any suggestions, its so simple under this hood but i am just having trouble finding the time to really dig into it right now so a little direction would be awesome. Next question. Going to do b16 swap this winter, is it really bolt in engine,trans and ecm+ vtec wiring or is there much more to it? Do i need to change trans for sure or is it just a gear ratio preference that makes the trans better thats comes with those engines? I also have a zc engine in a 91 civic but was told that is not the way to go for best results and simplicity in my model year. Also is just adding a v-tec head to my 1.5 a viable option? Anyone done it with favourable results? thanks
first post
- Thread starter codyb76
- Start date
- Replies 2
- Views 794
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
welfare
Ancient Member
I've gotta copy paste this somewhere or at least get a sticky for it.
Make sure your coolant is full and properly bled of all air, having an air bubble in the iac or the thermo valve will cause this same problem. follow shop manual or repair manual directions for cooling system bleeding.
Checking surging idle:
1 remove intake tube from throttle body so that you can see into it.
2 look into your throttle body and locate 2 small holes about the size of a 9mm bullet, 1 hole is above the other, both are near the firewall side (if that makes sense)
3 the top hole goes to your IAC, the bottom hole goes to the thermo valve (if equipped)
4 start the engine and get it to the point when it starts acting up (rev or whatever, just make sure to put the filter on if you have to drive anywhere)
5 KEEP THE THROTTLE PLATE CLOSED At ALL TIMES DURING THIS PROCEDURE!!with the engine RUNNING, VERY CAREFULLY stick your finger into the throttle body and plug one of the 2 holes that we just talked about, then the other. when the idle smoothes out you have just figured out which part is malfunctioning.
6 replace the offending part and re-bleed the cooling system.
If you replaced one of the parts and then the problem starts back up in a month or so, you may have to replace the other due to that part doing double duty to try to stablize the idle.
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING WITH THIS POST, and please make sure you don't suck your hand into the throttle body, you probably won't lose any fingers, but it may hurt alot from the engine vacuum, keep the throttle plate closed at all times
Make sure your coolant is full and properly bled of all air, having an air bubble in the iac or the thermo valve will cause this same problem. follow shop manual or repair manual directions for cooling system bleeding.
Checking surging idle:
1 remove intake tube from throttle body so that you can see into it.
2 look into your throttle body and locate 2 small holes about the size of a 9mm bullet, 1 hole is above the other, both are near the firewall side (if that makes sense)
3 the top hole goes to your IAC, the bottom hole goes to the thermo valve (if equipped)
4 start the engine and get it to the point when it starts acting up (rev or whatever, just make sure to put the filter on if you have to drive anywhere)
5 KEEP THE THROTTLE PLATE CLOSED At ALL TIMES DURING THIS PROCEDURE!!with the engine RUNNING, VERY CAREFULLY stick your finger into the throttle body and plug one of the 2 holes that we just talked about, then the other. when the idle smoothes out you have just figured out which part is malfunctioning.
6 replace the offending part and re-bleed the cooling system.
If you replaced one of the parts and then the problem starts back up in a month or so, you may have to replace the other due to that part doing double duty to try to stablize the idle.
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING WITH THIS POST, and please make sure you don't suck your hand into the throttle body, you probably won't lose any fingers, but it may hurt alot from the engine vacuum, keep the throttle plate closed at all times
welfare
Ancient Member
to answer your second question, yes the b16 is a bolt in swap, you need the correct engine mounts from a 94+ integra, axles for a b series, linkage for a b series, obd1 ecu for the engine and you are going to use (p30 if its a b16) and if you want it to be really perfect, get a radiator and radiator hoses for a 99-00 honda civic si (dohc vtec)
since you are swapping into a CX you are going to have to run extra wires for vtec, knock sensor, and for the 4 wire o2 sensor there are writeups in the swap and refrence sections for these wirings
the d series tranny will not fit onto a b series engine, and you also have to make sure that you get a hydraulic tranny for your swap and please do not use an integra LS tranny, the gears are too long and you will be unhappy. Use a gsr tranny or a tranny from a b16 sirII or 99-00 civic Si
since you are swapping into a CX you are going to have to run extra wires for vtec, knock sensor, and for the 4 wire o2 sensor there are writeups in the swap and refrence sections for these wirings
the d series tranny will not fit onto a b series engine, and you also have to make sure that you get a hydraulic tranny for your swap and please do not use an integra LS tranny, the gears are too long and you will be unhappy. Use a gsr tranny or a tranny from a b16 sirII or 99-00 civic Si