I was recently in contact with people from Korbach about testing their newly released frame locks. There's been quite a bit of debate on this new product as to whether it lives up to the claims posted from other testers on Honda-Tech and ClubSi. So I decided to test the frame locks for myself. If you're not sure what frame locks are, pick up the September Honda Tuning article. There is a 6 page review and description on them. Also, check out KorbackPerformance.com for details. First off, here's a picture of the product. They come in a very nice foam case, each piece fitted in its own precut slot. Presentation gets an A+. The instruction manual is also very high grade. Pictures of what to do, and also what to avoid doing duing the install, make this install the most straight forward I have ever done on a car. I only found one step that was vague (which holes to drill to which size), but the pictures helped enough. Otherwise, the only benefit I could see to adding to the manual would be having it in color. I'm not going into how to install the product, as that is what the instruction manual is for. Also, plenty of other reviews walk this through in great detail. Why be redundant? I will share some pictures to show the finished product. Install was ~1 hour. It took me longer since I had to purchase a longer extension for my socket wrench. This also would have been a nice note to add to the manual before starting. The forethought for the shadetree mechanic being able to install this item is excelling. Breakaway pieces where the bolts go have pilot holes so you will get everything centered just right. No room for someone to claim they weren't sure if the frame locks were installed correctly or not. It's idiot-proof. On places where you can't hold a nut in place to tighten the bolts, Korbach supplies the nuts on a stick so you can reach the nut where it needs to go. And everything lines up perfectly. For example, where you see the black square and the hole: You drill this hole to fish the nut on a stick behind the frame to the middle of the frame lock. Otherwise there's no way to get the nut behind the frame. It's works out perfect. So the install is easy and straightforward. All you need is a drill (if cordless, make sure to have two charged batteries as you'll go through them drilling), a basic socket wrench set, and torque wrench. Now to the testing. I have heard many varied claims from Korbach and other reviewers. For example, Korbach claims: I've bolded what I noticed as a difference. The main advantage is the tighter steering. On my test drives, one road I took was called Spiral Highway. Imagine the highways people drift on in Japan. It's very similar. I did a run a few days before the frame lock install and then immediately after the install. I could take the wider corners quite a bit quicker without feeling like I would lose control. And to put in perspective how I pushed my car, I did lose control once. It was a hairpin recommended at 20mph (according to the highway sign) and I couldn't hold it at 60mph. Otherwise the whole trip of switchbacks could be taken at ~55mph during 20-25mph recommend corners without grip loss, whereas before I would start to lose control 45-50mph. That may not look like much of a difference, but losing grip at 50 and being very solid still at 55 is a good change. Steering goes where you point the car. No more little adjustments I was used to in taking wide, fast corners. Where the car was pointed, it would go. The framelocks also reduce harshness while driving. A few reviewers said they saw day and night differences immediately driving in town. That is quite an exaggeration. Hitting potholes and railroad tracks doesn't shake nearly as much, but daily driving still is going to be unaffected. You still feel bumps in the road. Another review said wheel hop was eliminated in burnouts. That is also false. Unfortunately, the framelocks did not remove any wheel shake at 70mph. Other claims I've seen is the 50/50 weight distribution feel. This was much more noticeable adding a rear tie bar into the equation. My first two rides on Spiral Highway with and without the framelocks did not include a rear tie bar. The third trip did, and it helped keep the rear end from swinging out as much. Now if the frame locks multiplied the effect of a cheap eBay tie bar is yet to be deteremined. So in conclusion. the frame locks work fairly close as to how they're described. I believe a ride quality difference would be seen much more so on a stock suspension. The current selling price for the frame locks is $195 until October. Normal retail through Korbach is $250. I paid $70 and believe it is worth every penny now having driven on the frame locks for 5 days. Would I pay $200 for the frame locks? Yes. They've given me more noticeable improvement than $150 strut bars have. Is it worth the normal asking price of $250? Yes, if you can afford it. It may look like some simple pieces of metal, but until you see the engineering into these pieces you cannot appreicate them fully. For reference and to answer other random questions I think will be asked: What is my car setup? 1998 Honda Civic Ex 4dr 5 speed D16Y8 KYB AGX adjustable struts Neuspeed Sport springs 1.75" F 1.5" R Neuspeed front strut bar eBay rear tie bar Speedy Lite 6 17x7 wheels (16lbs) Hankook Ventus H405 205/40/17 tires 1 degree F 2.7 degrees R camber Are framelocks available for my car? They're only available for 96-00 Civics, but I know other models are under developement. Am I paid off for this review? No. The guys at Korbach were really stressing to be as critical as possible in the review. And I was. Plus, you can trust one of your critical HondaSwap.com moderators to not feed you any bs. How do the framelocks work? Here is a quote from David Lawson, an engineer for Korbach Performance: If you have any questions, please post them and I'll try to answer to the best of my ability.