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frankenstein build question.

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by austindc2, Jan 3, 2010.

  1. austindc2

    austindc2 New Member

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    my b20b just went out in my dc.
    so im looking to build a b20vtec or some sort of stroker motor, i was told you could put a b20 crank, b16 pistons and ls rods in a ls block and have a "poor mans" stroker motor.
    i did some research and found out that the ls and b20 have the same stroke just the b20 has a 84mm bore instead of a 81mm as to the ls.

    i was wondering would it be possible to put a b20 crank with a 89mm stroke in a b16a block. the stroke is 77.4mm but i didnt know if i would have to have special rods or if the piston would exceed the deck height of the b16.

    or would i be better off building a b20vtec with high comp pistons, a stock crak that has been knife edged, and a b16 head. ive head they flow better than a gsr head.

    i just want a nice build that revs quick, and will exceed around 200hp.
    besides spending a ton of money on a c5 lol.

    let me know something please :)
     
  2. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    The B16 short block is physically shorter than the B18 and B20 (B18 and B20 are the same). You could put the 89mm B20 crank into the B16, but you'd need custom pistons with higher wrist pins and/or shorter rods to make sure that your pistons didn't crash into your combustion chambers.

    So no, don't bother with the 89mm crank in the B16 block. Build your engine with either a normal B18/B20 block or a B18C block. I made 190whp/160wtq with just high compression pistons inside a B block with the 89mm crank- add cams and portwork and you can go WAY past 200whp.

    As far as the heads- the GSR head will be a little more detonation resistant because of the combustion chamber shape, but the difference in flow isn't really anything to worry about. Pick whatever is available- it's not worth the cash to seek one out over the other.
     
  3. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    lol, i was actually typing 'calesta will be in momentarily to answer this'
     
  4. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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  5. austindc2

    austindc2 New Member

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    so a good decent build that wouldnt cost me a ton of money would be a b20vtec, with high compression pistons, and port the head alittle?

    also, ive heard that "knife edging" the crankshaft makes the motor rev higher and drop revs faster. cause the resistance of the crank hitting the oil, and the weight that gets shaved off.

    is it worth it to go through the trouble to get the crank knife edged?
     
  6. austindc2

    austindc2 New Member

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    the reason i have to belive my b20b just is messed up or needs new bottom end bearings.
    one night after work i didnt let my car warm up all the way then drove home, my oil pressure dropped to 45psi, as i went about 10more miles it went to 20psi.
    the next day i started the car to go to work and the oil pressure gauge read 3psi so i turned the motor off. idk what would cause it to loose oil pressure besides rings, bad bearings, or something blocking the oil sending unit.
    let me know what you think so i can decide how i want to build this motor.
    it is no longer my daily driver :/ i have bought a GOLF as a daily driver to school and work while the integra is now a project/weekend car.
     
  7. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Don't bother with knife-edging the crank. It's nice to have, but can cause serious problems if not done correctly- and the gains are more of a "I've run out of things to spend money on and want those last few percentage points" type of thing.

    No clue on the oil pressure- tear open the block and find out. If the bearing races are damaged, it might be cheaper to find another block.
     
  8. austindc2

    austindc2 New Member

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    the motor doesnt knock, but then again i havent driven it at all.
    my next plan is to take the oil pan off and see if there are metal shavings or grit in the oil.

    dang, ive heard knife edging gains alot :/
    bummer.

    what about the "brian crower" stroker kits? are they really worth the 2500 dollars, or is there another stroker alternative?
     
  9. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Nope, not really worth the $2500. To really take advantage of the extra stroke you're going to need other crazy mods to support it. Unless you have tons of money to piss away on the engine build, don't worry about the stroker.
     
  10. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    you can use a 89mm crank and LS rods on a b16.....BUT you need to sleeve the block. Its called a tech43 build. It was a new build in 03 to 05 (i think). The problem was that the pistons would rattle in the bore due to the shorter skirt on the shorter piston. Also another issue was the wrist pin was raised into the oil rings. Even with the buttons oil would blow by and cause this engine to smoke.

    So you CAN build it BUT its not a good DD at all.
     
  11. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    tech43 was fail.

    IIRC, the main problem came from the buttons/ring location. Compression height was simply too shallow. Shorter rods would have definitely helped though, but for the price might as well invest it into a larger engine(F, H, K).
     
  12. austindc2

    austindc2 New Member

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    well forget that, cause that stroker kit alone cost almost what i originally paid for the car. ive seen it done before and thet make alot of power, but i wasnt exactly planning on spending 6000 on a build that isnt going to be driven daily.
     
  13. 95EGCoupeVtec

    95EGCoupeVtec SOHC VTEC at its best

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    You could always just get a LS engine for cheap and use your tranny and stuff that's in there now. then get a turbo kit and run low boost, like 4-5psi, and you should be able to get your 200whp like you want. and its low enough boost to be a daily driver without too much wheelspin :). Plus, you won't spend alot to do it if you look around and find parts for cheap. If you did want to go boost, check on d-series.org and turbod16 for used turbo parts people have and u might be able to get stuff off of there and just spend the main part on all your supporting mods and a good manifold. i Got my whole turbonetics kit for $600 with a bad wastegate and a B series manifold.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2010
  14. austindc2

    austindc2 New Member

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    yeaa ive always thought about boost, but ive heard its expensive. like around 1500 and i am cheap lol. but 600 isnt bad at all, i might do a b20 vtec for a while then boost after i save up.
    i just bought a golf as a daily driver, so i can run the dc on weekends. driving it everyday is putting alot of miles on it and stuff is continuously breaking, or having to be replaced.
     
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