frustrated with IAB(secondary runners) on B18c1!!

[Ek9_Civic]

I have been doing plenty of research since I got my OBD-1 P72 ecu. That was about 2 months ago, and I still can't get my secondaries to work properly. My civic is a 00(obd2b), motor is a 98 B18c1(obd2a), P72(obd1). Motor is OBD2, which needs a positive trigger right? But the OBD-1 ecu supplies the negative trigger for the IAB. I took the IAB plug from a JDM H22, which has a pink wire and a black wire. I ran the black wire to a constant 12v source(#1 injector), and the pink wire to pin A17 on the ecu. When I turn the car on the run position, the butterflies move up, which means it's closed. I rev it up to around 5500rpm, and the butterflies drop. It seems like it is working, but my car is running like crap when I drive it. The low end sucks, and so does the top end. I could really feel the lag in low rpms, and at high rpms I could see white smoke coming out of my exhaust. I was running an OBD-2 P2t(99-00 SI) ecu, and it runs awesome. But the ecu will not idle, so I will have to use the P72. Can anyone please help me with my problem. I can't get a Skunk2 or BLOX intake manifold right now due to funds.

 

[posol]

you need to move A20 to A17. Since you will be using the OBD2 engine harness and an OBD1 GS-R ECU you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12V switched source. You can get this from the yel/blk wire at the injectors or the IACV

 

[Ek9_Civic]

I'm using my stock dx harness, I just added a couple of plugs. I added my own IAB plug(jdm H22 plug), ran the pink wire to A17, and black to constant 12v source. Will I still need to switch pin A20 to A17 since the pink wire from the IAB plug is already going to A17??
Also, I thought the injector wire is a constant 12v source the moment you turn to key to the run position. Anyways, the blk wire has already been connected to the injector wire. I doubt the IAB is engaging because my top end is really horrible. I can't feel/hear the IAB engage, and I think it runs rich in the top end range.

-I ran the pink wire to pin A17 on the OBD1 CONVERSION HARNESS. I ran the wire straight to where it plugs up to the ecu. I used an OBD2 ecu pin on the OBD1 ecu if that matters any. Thanks

 

[UDT]

Quoted post[/post]]
I'm using my stock dx harness, I just added a couple of plugs. I added my own IAB plug(jdm H22 plug), ran the pink wire to A17, and black to constant 12v source. Will I still need to switch pin A20 to A17 since the pink wire from the IAB plug is already going to A17??
Also, I thought the injector wire is a constant 12v source the moment you turn to key to the run position. Anyways, the blk wire has already been connected to the injector wire. I doubt the IAB is engaging because my top end is really horrible. I can't feel/hear the IAB engage, and I think it runs rich in the top end range.

-I ran the pink wire to pin A17 on the OBD1 CONVERSION HARNESS. I ran the wire straight to where it plugs up to the ecu. I used an OBD2 ecu pin on the OBD1 ecu if that matters any. Thanks

Get a multi meter. If you had one you could find out for sure very easily. Its one of my favorite tools.

 

[Ek9_Civic]

I just got done checking the voltage with a multimeter. I think I'm getting a constant ground signal from my ecu, and the injector is a constant 12v source. I checked the 2 wires at idle and it shows up 12 volts. The IAB looks closed because it is in the "up" position. So is my ecu suppose to cut off the ground source to the IAB at around 5500??
-I'm really getting annoyed with the dual-stage manifold, but I dont have enough funds for a Skunk2 or BLOX...=(

 

[Ek9_Civic]

bump..need help