fuel system setup

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D

Del Slw

Member
i'm piecing together a cheapy turbo kit. my internals will remain stock(b16a3). i already have a STR fuel rail with SX regulator. and since i am keeping a stock bottom end, i only plan on boosting 7-9psi. so will my stock fuel pump be effecient? ihave a brand new Walbro 255, will that be too much, or does it really matter? and what about injectors? i'm sure dsm 450s are too big for only 7-9psi, so what size do i need to upgrade to? and is that it? or should i really invest in a fmu? i've heard bad and good about them.

-Robbie

edit: the turbo is a 1g dsm, with 1g dsm wastegate, and Turbo XS bov. i will be buying an APexi VAFC II for fuel managment...
 
he stock pump might be enough, but if you already have a walbro, why not use it? there's really no such thing as too much, as what ever doesn't get used, simply gets dumped back down the return line back to the tank.

the dsm 450s would be great for you with the vafc. run the VAFC hack, no fmu or check valves needed.
 
too much can be bad. when so much gets shot back into the return line, it can create a vaccuum effect and actually start to rob the engine of some fuel because so much is being shot back in relation to how much is being used. i dont think that you will have this problem, just letting you know it can happen.
 
so with my str fuel rail, sx adj regulator and fuel pump i'll be ok? and the 450's wont be too much?

and...since my regulator is adjustable, doesn't that pretty much take the place of a FMU?

and what about spark? just colder plugs? and what kind?
 
no. a FPR is a worthless POS if you ask me, and moreover, it will NOT function like an FMU. if anything, its use is for setting rail pressure at idle. Once you start boosting, without an FMU/vafc hack/hondata/etc to throw in more fuel, you will lean out hard and go boom.

a larger rail, larger injectors, and so forth just gives the oppertunity for more fuel to go in, but without a pump that can adequetly supply that, there simply won't be fuel there to use in the first place. Since you already have the walbro, use it.

If it were my car, id scratch the FPR, and the fmu, and since you plan to get the vafc, just run the vafc hack with the pump, dsm injectors, and your str rail.

as for plugs, Larger the number = colder the plug.

a #7 could be either 1 step colder or 2 steps colder depending on the motor.
i believe D series and the B18A/B use a #5 heat range, whereas the DOHC VTEC motors use #6 heat range plugs.


chartheatratingflowpath.gif


6's: > 350whp level
7's: 350whp-450whp level
8's: 450whp-600whp level

7's are what you want. They are probably overkill for your setup, but will still help in providing a good spark that won't get blown out. You'll get better gas mileage and partial throttle response with a hotter plug since it combusts the mixture greater.

so, bkr7e's is what you want. commonly reffered to at auto stores as part #6097
Also, the BKR7E is a also used standard plugs for certain Honda/Acuras.
Honda part number: 98079-5714J

The BKR7E has the "V Power" electrode and is not pre-gapped.
The BKR7ES-11 has the standard electrode and is pre-gapped.

you should get the "V-Power" model for a turbo application as its said to be far superior to its standard counterpart when it comes to forced induction. The pregap is kind of useless for our applications because they are pre-gapped too big anyway (.035). The recommendes gap for an FI motor is .030, or up to .027 for a higher power setup.

Everything you could ever want to know about plugs can be found here: http://ngkaz.home.att.net/wsb/html/view.cg...home.html-.html

If all these numbers mean nothing to you, this chart will help explain it.

ngksparkplug.jpg
 
damn, thanks for the info...

i plan on getting a vafc. and i already have the rail and regulator on my car. are you saying that i should take off the fpr even though i'm going to be using my fuel pump and injectors? and what about the fmu? get it or not? do i really need a fmu if i get the vafc? or will it be best if i use both of them in conjunction with one another...
 
i forgot to mention that i have the missing link if that matters torwards anything....
 
you don't need the missing link nor the fmu with the vafc hack. by maing the fuel say, -30%, it alters the map signal to the ecu, and thus the ecu is tricked into thinking its not seeing boost. this is good for 9-10 psi at the most though.

if you don't want to take off the FPR, thats fine- but adjust it back to the stock setting. with the vafc at -30% at idle (under 1000 lets say) its shortening the duty cycle of the 450s by 30% on top of what the ecu is telling it so it doesn't flood.

if you aren't sure how the hack works, take a look at the thread that started it all- http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137901
 
well i've already ordered the missing link, so can i still install it with no problems?

i only plan on runnin 7-9psi for now anyway....at least for the next 6 months while i build up my other block..
 
no, don't run the missing link. it is not needed and will interfeere with how the hack works.

put it on ebay. there's a good chance you can make a profit off it.

"JDM boost missing link fast and furious" titles work wonders :D
 
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