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Fully built motor, wont run

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by 94CivicSlow, Jul 7, 2005.

  1. 94CivicSlow

    94CivicSlow Senior Member

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    Ok heres the lowdown.

    LS Vtec
    b18b1 with SIRII head
    ITR cams, ITR Intake mani
    Chipped computer
    All motor buildup, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, clevite bearings.

    Machine shop built bottom end I assembeled head/cams, and all else.

    Car has new plugs, t belt, water pump, cap, rotor etc.

    Start car, runs like shit. Pull plug wire 1, car dies. Start up pull 2, no changes, pull wire 3, no changes, pull wire 4 car dies. Cyclinders 3 and 2 are not firing. The plugs are brand new compared to 1 and 4 which look normal (car running). Cel is on for the misfire. Also, ign is retarded all the way because it detonates if I bring it to 16 deg. (12.5:1 :D CAM2 time).

    Also there was a small knocking that came from the bottom end that got quieter and quieter as the car ran for the 1st 3 mins. Its almost gone.

    Total time car was running 4 minutes. Did compression test, 180-185 ish across all four. Have fuel, plugs smell like fuel (the 2 cyc that are dead) -- Smelled like gas but not flooded....

    Took out dizzy, feel slight resistance 1/2 though its revolution. Does not spin freely all the way around, slight resistance and something is rubbing inside...

    Is 185 ok? The car was only running for a total of 4 mins and I doubt the rings are seated, it was blowing a little smoke... That knocking noise is what scares me the most though...... :blink: It was going away though......

    Any ideas besides the dist? Removed valve cover, everything looks mint, cam timing is dead on................ help
     
  2. whiteLS

    whiteLS Senior Member

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    did you take the cap off the distributer? se if it was hitting any of the teminals
     
  3. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    plug wires are in the wrong order possibly? ecu problems?
     
  4. 94CivicSlow

    94CivicSlow Senior Member

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    Took the cap off, looks ok. The plug wires are in the correct position
     
  5. 94CivicSlow

    94CivicSlow Senior Member

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    Guys the car runs... just not on all 4. Its not backfiring . THe firing order is right but Im skeptical about the dist.

    Anyone ever hear of piston slap.. ?

    My knocking is coming from the center of the block not the crank and I think its piston slap.... any ideas?
     
  6. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    if its piston slap id take it back to the machine shop and proceed to say "what the fuck is this shit motherfuckers"piston slap is caused by play betweent he piston and the cylinders.....and or incorect boring of some sort somewhere int he bottom end...also if i had to guess on the no fire in 2-3 cyl. id def say its your dist.
     
  7. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    Its odd, but whenever I see posts that say my car is running like ass and then I see chipped computer. weird. So what kind of "chip" is it. What ecu, injectors, etc. Also is your piston slap perhaps just improperly set valve lash?
     
  8. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Have you tried replacing the two wires/plugs that weren't firing?
     
  9. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    Check the injectors, when i got my engine back from being built cylinder #1 wasnt firing, we checked just about everything, then we bought a spare injector to see if that was the problem and sure enough everything worked fine.
     
  10. NoJokE

    NoJokE Senior Member

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    Forged pistons usually make considerably more noise than stock on cold startups, It'll die down as the car warms up as you stated.

    That's natural since forged pistons have looser clearances.

    They'll also burn a little oil too, so don't be surprised if you lose a little oil every once in a while.

    EDIT: How did you check to see that the 2 cylinders weren't getting spark?
     
  11. stivic

    stivic Member

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    My gsr swap did the same thing some cylinders werent firing until I replaced the ignitor in the dizzy
     
  12. 94CivicSlow

    94CivicSlow Senior Member

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    I checked spark by pulling the wire off, putting a known good plug on the end, and grounding it to the head.

    The noise did start to go away. I got a new dizzy and am gonna install it right now. I will let you guys know the turnout.

    Some guy on B20 said


    HAHAHAH
     
  13. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    the computer is not the problem. it was my old p28 with a program i had on it. it worked for me.
    the additonal chip i sent i didn't test-- but there was one in the ecu that was known-working. if you need a new chip dan, let me know, and i'll burn you a new one with more fuel or something if its not starting right. i didn't realize you were 12.5:1. the chip was made for 11.x:1

    like nojoke said, forged pistons are loud. ignore that for now.
    ignitors are known to go bad--- but i've never seen it where 2 will fire. its usually all or nothing.
     
  14. 94CivicSlow

    94CivicSlow Senior Member

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    Well.. turns out my brand new NGK wires were the problem!! Not the distributor =(

    I put the old wires on and it is now firing on all 4 cyc. I still have a CEL, and vtec is not wired.. could that throw the CEL?

    The car hesistates from 2-3500, and is smooth from 3500-4500. It seems to be running ok minus the hesistation. The knocking disappeared when the cyclinders came to life, and its still blowing some smoke. Total running time now, 30 minutes.

    Any suggestions on the hesistation?

    Thanks Brian about the computer, I think the computer is working fine.
     
  15. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    wire vtec up and then run it. eliminate all things and then test it that way you know its not vtec not being wired or whatever. check to make sure you plugged all the plugs properly. just offering suggestions im not saying your a noob and didnt do something right it just happens sometimes people make simple mistakes.
     
  16. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    hesitation could be from going from an area of a low to high amount of fuel in your fuel tables on the chip, or vice versa. high to low. With that setup you should go to a dyno and tune as soon as possible.
     
  17. noobvang

    noobvang Senior Member

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    hesitation, check your timing.
     
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