Gaining 10-20 hp

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i say nitrous.

And get some sort of progressive controller, so that it comes on graduallly. That will save parts in the long run, and result in a more consistant hit.

The LS tranny is long, and nitrous makes lots of torque. You really wouldn't feel 10-15 hp really, and a slapped together LSVTEC is a ticking time bomb.

You could probably turbo for 1000$... turbos and LS trannys are great, especially if you get a big turbo. The long gears keep the engine's rpms so low on the highway that the turbo doesnt make crap for boost... resulting in near stock mileage.
 
Or you could just get the NX $600 kit, the adjustable 35-50-75 WHP kit. 35 is a little more than you wanted, and a stock motor should handle the 75 shot when you want a lot of power too.

But the kit I'm talking about is activated when the pedal hits the floor, and nitrous costs $3-5 per pound. You'd only feel it when you gun it too so I don't know if it'd be right for you, but it's perfect for me :D.
 
You could make a homemade turbo kit for less than $1k and make way more than 10-20hp, it's not that hard to install if you read up on how they are installed and you have at least basic mechanical skills....or I guess you could go with NX kit your choice.
 
EvoTec1 said:
i say nitrous.

And get some sort of progressive controller, so that it comes on graduallly. That will save parts in the long run, and result in a more consistant hit.

The LS tranny is long, and nitrous makes lots of torque. You really wouldn't feel 10-15 hp really, and a slapped together LSVTEC is a ticking time bomb.

You could probably turbo for 1000$... turbos and LS trannys are great, especially if you get a big turbo. The long gears keep the engine's rpms so low on the highway that the turbo doesnt make crap for boost... resulting in near stock mileage.
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A slapped together ls/vtec is a ticking time bomb?? How do you "slap together" an ls/vtec. Last time I checked you HAVE to modify the head gasket, change water pump and t-belt, swap dowel pins over and tap the head for the oil line so you have sufficient oil pressure for vtec to engage properly. Not much to it, anyone can buy the conversion kits and DIY for $200 from Golden Eagle. When idiots put chipped ecu's on stock engines and rev them out to 9,000+ rpm because they THINK that the ecu will make them that much power are out of their god forsaken minds. Its stupid things like this that blow up engines.
 
Don't buy NOS. It just destroys the motor if used to continous and you have to keep refilling it. If you want NOS start looking for a new motor right away. Just loss weight for free and the get intake headers and exhaust. Best way to do it, and most likely the cheapest and easiest way.
 
MazdaAspec said:
Don't buy NOS. It just destroys the motor if used to continous and you have to keep refilling it. If you want NOS start looking for a new motor right away. Just loss weight for free and the get intake headers and exhaust. Best way to do it, and most likely the cheapest and easiest way.
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Stop it. Just stop. Nitrous doesn't blow up engines. If your engine is healthy enough to run nitrous it is perfectly safe to run it accordingly. Your specific size shot (Jet), sufficient fuel, colder plugs and retarded timing is the correct way to run nitrous without detonating. When your engine is properly setup for nitrous it is as perfectly safe as any other power adder. If your engine is small, like a D-series, they say do not use a shot larger than 55-75 with proper tuning. People like to "cheat" nitrous. Cheating nitrous is not backing the timing off and running colder plugs, simply because it takes away from the naturally aspirated power. It is a choice you have to make. Some people cheat it and get away with it for a while, but little do they know the detonation is shortening the life span of the engine. I'm a big fan of nitrous, its fun and cost effective when done properly AND can be done for under 1000 bucks.
 
True, but his car is only trying to gain 10 to 20 and we are not sure on the condition of his cars motor. If he just needs the 10-20 HP during street racing sure NOS will do the trick or would he like it at all times, then go with the other option.
 
Compression test. Cylinder leakage test. Two important tests to determine the condition of the engine.
 
I have several problems with this thread.


This really is not that hard, like blanco said Intake, header, and exhaust. Maybe cams if you can find some cheap. Crower makes an excellent cam for the b18a/b.

b18a/b is not a waste of a motor, it will not be sluggish in a 92 integra either. Those mods will be plenty to have a decently quick car for around town.

This guy did not come in here and say i want 100 whp for 1k like a lot of dick wads do so dont treat him that way.



LSVTEC a ticking bomb/ Mine seems to be doing very well the last couple years.
 
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vtecsir1 said:
I have several problems with this thread.


This really is not that hard, like blanco said Intake, header, and exhaust. Maybe cams if you can find some cheap. Crower makes an excellent cam for the b18a/b.

b18a/b is not a waste of a motor, it will not be sluggish in a 92 integra either. Those mods will be plenty to have a decently quick car for around town.

This guy did not come in here and say i want 100 whp for 1k like a lot of dick wads do so dont treat him that way.



LSVTEC a ticking bomb/ Mine seems to be doing very well the last couple years.
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wow good look on that. he said 10-20 hp and for cheap not expensive turbos and nitrous. here is a dyno sheet that shows a header gaining 12 hp... Honda-Tech.com: All Motor: Hytech replica header dyno test
 
you slap together a ls/vtec by using a 200$ kit and a block that has cast pistons and rods meant for a 6500 rpm redline. Im not saying you won't make power, im just saying its not really going to hold together like that forever.

Most people who want 10-20 cheap horsepower dont want to take the bottom end of their motor apart to install good rod bolts.

Progressive nitrous. 25-45 safe and most importantly-

EASY TO INSTALL

horsepower at the flip of a switch, and factory fuel economy. just dont overdo it!

PLUS- - - a 25 shot will add like 35 lb/ft at mid rpms, PERFECT for moving through those long gears.

btw, ive seen stock ls motors running 13's on street tires and a 100 shot. i question THAT wisdom as well.
 
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and mazdaAspec:

You think you are going to ruin an engine running nitrous, AND it'll only make like 10 hp?

wow.
 
EvoTec1 said:
you slap together a ls/vtec by using a 200$ kit and a block that has cast pistons and rods meant for a 6500 rpm redline. Im not saying you won't make power, im just saying its not really going to hold together like that forever.

Most people who want 10-20 cheap horsepower dont want to take the bottom end of their motor apart to install good rod bolts.

Progressive nitrous. 25-45 safe and most importantly-

EASY TO INSTALL

horsepower at the flip of a switch, and factory fuel economy. just dont overdo it!

PLUS- - - a 25 shot will add like 35 lb/ft at mid rpms, PERFECT for moving through those long gears.

btw, ive seen stock ls motors running 13's on street tires and a 100 shot. i question THAT wisdom as well.
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If I were to ever build another NA setup, it would hands down be an ls/vtec or a b20 vtec. They make power, and they last as long as your not spinning to 9k every other time you shift. It all comes down to the build. If it was done properly, assembled and torqued to oem specifications, quality parts. It all plays a part in the longevity of the engine.
 
Blanco, I've had one last 3 months and one last 9 months. Long rod stroke isn't very friendly with high rpm's. Makes for nice power, but in the end.... baby-go-boom :)
 
anyone who says the ls/vtecs don't last I know many people who have built them and they run fine and make good power. I personally think if I went that route I would go with the b20 vtec because of the 2.0 block rather than the 1.8. but still either way these engines put out decent power and are pretty reliable when done right and are maintained. Just like any other motor. All motors run well for a long time when maintained well. well not all but most. Either way man head swap with intake, header, and cat-back exhaust will give you well over 10-20 horse power at that point you will most likely be up to the 30-50 horses gained area depending on quality of parts used and how many of those mods you are able to do with the budget you set down.
 
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not to much to say about this...but if u go i/h/e........i have the AEM v2 intake dc headers and a skunk2 catback....runs great, and the skunk2 has a really nice sound, dont sound like a bean can going down the street, and it fits nicely on the car as well, it does not stick out to far, and is not to short, fits nice and snug and a clean fit. not to sure how much hp my i/h/e added all together, but it deff helped

just some sugg. on i/h/e if u go that route....i got some pics of the skunk2 exhaust on my profile and what it looks like if u wanna see how it looks
 
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Intake and exhaust definitely but then i would werk on ignition i.e. plugs, wires, cap and rotor maybe even a cheap chip somewhere. That might put you at a gain of around 10-15.
But I personally liked the weight loss idea b/c its free.
 
yeah if its on ebay and says mugen or spoon etc... gakk! stay far away!

I bought one once and read the thing, it had ALL CEL codes removed, and ended up being FOR THE WRONG ECU.

I know a really built ls/vtec kills. My friend had one in a crx that hit low 14's on street tires with a full interior and sunroof. But it had been rebuilt with stock VTEC rods, decent pistons and such.

If you do go I/H/E wont all those parts be reusable on any other b series down the road?

If you wanted to learn tuning go that way, cuz u'll have fun and really be doing something worth doing!

Not only will you add power, but efficiency.
 
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