Gas Theories, any truth to this

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nootrac22

Well-Known Member
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well I got an email today, and it was fairly interesting, about how gas pumps and pricing work. I just wanted a to get some feedback on it before I call BSl

1. Fill up your car or truck in the morning when the temperature is still cool. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline. When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you're filling up in the afternoon or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and temperature of the fuel (gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products) are significant. Every truckload that we load is temperature-compensated so that the indicated gallon age is actually the amount pumped. A one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for businesses, but service stations don't have temperature compensation at their pumps.

2. If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's tank.

3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm. (Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation.)

4. If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting. You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping. Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered. If you are pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains more vapors, which is being sucked back into the underground tank so you're getting less gas for your money. Hope this will help ease your 'pain at the pump'
 
sounds alittle to smart to me. Too much detail so you'll believe him........ in fact he might be lying.

but you never know even if he wasnt lying, all that crap would not be enough to make a difference.
 
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imho, don't hurt to apply the logic, isn't like it costs anything...but as far as whether or not any of it is true? pfff ;)
 
The cold thing is true. But as you warm up, it fills the volume creating pressure in the system. there is a valve that will let that pressure go. You're efforts are in vain.

The other vapor you're talking about is negligable. Like, less than a cc over a tank.

you really wanna conserve fuel ? stop fucking flooring it when the light turns green.
 
2. If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's tank.
the water in the tank would worry me more
there are filters for dirt
no filters for water in your gas tank though

3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm. (Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation.)
you also want to consider that more weight = less mileage
gallon of gas weighs 5.8 - 6.5 lbs
half a tank would be at least 30 extra pounds
effects are negligable, but its something to consider

4. If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting. You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping. Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered. If you are pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains more vapors, which is being sucked back into the underground tank so you're getting less gas for your money. Hope this will help ease your 'pain at the pump'
whats your time worth?
 
The only way to significantly cut down your fuel expense / stop being such a candy ass is to ride a bike

THE END
 
god bless ong bak.

wonderful scene.

Most of thats true, but applying those "simple" instruction is ultimately gonna save you about 50c at the pump (assuming gas is 3 bucks a gallon).
 
The cold thing is true. But as you warm up, it fills the volume creating pressure in the system. there is a valve that will let that pressure go. You're efforts are in vain.

The other vapor you're talking about is negligable. Like, less than a cc over a tank.

you really wanna conserve fuel ? stop fucking flooring it when the light turns green.

it's your. :ban:

I don't buy gas above 3 dollars a gallon. I just can't bring myself to do it.
And those tips sound like bs.
 
Here is another tidbit I thought about today: All of these tips to put more volume or denser volume into your tank doesn't save you a goddam thing, because it's metered specifically.

Gas stations will spend tens of thousands of dollars to save a single drop after every pump. So the temperature thing, the flow volume thing, it's all meaningless.

And you're (YOU ARE .. I know grammar, I backspaced the sentence "You (are) vain to think.." and forgot to blow out the rest of it.) going to spend whatever for gas that "they" want you to. They key is what you do with it. Even driving an economical car over a non-economical one. If you feel that you get the extra enjoyment out of it, then get it. If you think it's worth $20 extra a week to sit in traffic in an LCD loaded SUV over a Civic, then you have every justification.
 
sooner or later, these prices will be so high, and cars efficient enough, that people will find it's easy to pay $1 (about 5 cents per gallon) more to get into a station that's well lit, has good facilities and modern pumps.

They are only backing themselves into a hole that they can't get out of.
 
To save gas....or extend your miles...by Airjockie.

look at your tires....find the max pressure...and add 5 psi over that...bulb out those tires....if the max is 51...then run 56psi. And the more pressure in the tire actually gives more grip.

Get the lightest wheels you can find...they may be expensive...but the long run investment will save you crazy dollars.

Get the lightest tires possible...rubber is heavy, additional rotational mass on the wheels sucks HP...which sucks up gas dollars.

Streamline the car...Aero-kits were first put on cars to aerodynamically help the car flow thru the air....and save gas. Even taking the passenger mirror off will net you an incredible 1 MPG for commuting.

lower the car...to a point....ride height affects aero as much as as putting air brakes on a car...less drag, less power to pull the car down the road...saves gas.

Coast down hills...if your wheel bearings up to par...then you will go decently fast anyways...

Put a damn garden trim front nose lip mod on the car...the less air under the car, can scrape and get damaged and costs $4.99 a roll...will save a few more MPG's.

smaller tires and wheels....the optimum tire and weight for a honda would be at or close to 20 lbs per corner...I got a set at 21lbs, but for race only...and I could only imagine what that would do for commuting...but normal stock wheels and tires will be about 35-40 lbs.... uses more power to rotate the wheels to get the car rolling, and more gas is needed....17,18,19, and 24" wheels are gas guzzling fuckers.

Loose the wings, and get Vortech Generators....unless you can aim the wing to give some lift at a certain speed to lighten the car when it's at a commuting speed....and still stay on the ground to be safe for handling....

change your sparkplugs and ignition parts on a decent time schedule....a better running car will use all the gas that gets pumped thru it, and not use part of it and decrees the volumetric efficacy. Plus a new gas cap once in a while for the high emission cars also helps.

Get a damn 86-87 CRX HF...stock has 54 MPG's, and the parts for the cars nowadays are incredible if you want to sport it out to be cool it can be. Or build the Walter's Engine Setup that we played around with and get 75 MPG. That car should get studied, and worked on some more to find out why it did what it did. If I had a cryogenic tank...I bet I could rebuild that engine to get about 100 mpg.... hehehe.

Basically, your upkeep of the cars condition, adding a little aero-ish rice products, getting the best wheels and tires for your use of the car, and modifying some driving habits...can significantly increase the MPG's to save some money. The main factor is car choice.... Civic's will never see the gas pumps as much as the huge SUV's....unless your running NOS, a huge Turbo, and it can't be tuned properly and it will run like shit.
 
also if you have a car that has a mechanically driven fan powered from a pulley on the engine...rip it off and get an electrical fan... That will save so much gas...you'd be amazed.
 
90% of what you say is tested and wrong . And a wing that maintains any lift at "commuting speed" yet may come close to "lift" would be 25x25 feet :)
 
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