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getting fed up!! h23- h22 swap

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by imprt92, Mar 26, 2004.

  1. imprt92

    imprt92 Member

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    hello to all you honda lovers! I have posted a few times on here about a swap i just did. I have a 92 lude and as we know they come w/ h23s i swaped in a jdm h22a. when i bought it i got the wrong ecu, they sent a p 39. so we went ahead and swaped the motor. i got it to run w/ my p 14 "h23" ecu and used the dist and coil from my h23. i did this becouse the wiring harness for the dist was 1 or 2 wires difrent and i still had a plug for the coil that wasn't connected. i got the idea from some forum i dont remember were! anyway, the car runs not real great but seems to have a lot more torque than before. but now it cuts out at 5100 rpm and the cheack engine light is on. for the v tec i bought a apexi, but now someone on here said that will not work! i dont know why but ok . they said i need a p13 ecu. but what about my wiring??? if i use a p13 wont i need to use the dist from my h22? if so my wiring will be diferent!! they also said to cheak my codes, i posted and asked how to do this? i need to know where to run a jumper wire to get them. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME ?? I JUST WANNA DRIVE THE DAMN THING AGAIN!!!!
     
  2. NotUrAverage_Si

    NotUrAverage_Si Senior Member

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    there should be a blue connector near the ECU with 2 wires, a brown and a black. splice the 2 blacks together then turn your car to the on position and read what code it's flashing.
     
  3. sleepn_accord

    sleepn_accord Senior Member

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    Calm down.

    If you get the p13 you won't have to do any additional wiring (provided you didn't fuck up vtec wires). One reason why it may seem to run rough is because the fuel map for the h23 and h22 and different (the h22 is a piggy on fuel.. i.e. much richer than the h23).

    As stated above look for a blue 2-wire connector that is not plugged into anything. It should be near the passenger kick-panel or by the center console on the passenger side.

    To read codes, get a paper clip and bend it into a 'u' shape, then stick it into the connector (with engine/car off).

    Once it's plugged in, turn the keys to the 'on' position but don't start the car. Look at the check engine light and count the blinks.

    A long blink indicates a multiple of 10
    A short blink indicates a multiple of 1.

    i.e. 1 long blink = 10, 2 long blinks = 20 etc..

    All the valid codes are available in the reference section of this site.

    If your code doesn't match one here, you're counting wrong.
     
  4. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    All that ^^^^^^ and you can start the car. It won't hurt the ECU. I drove around when my CEL was on with it blinking for a week. Just try not to jump/unplug that paperclip with the key on.

    You never ran your VTEC wires did you? A P13 is simple to wire. Your stock harness only leaves two wires to run. For that matter, you didn't need to switch distributors either. Splicing one wire would have that dizzy working perfectly. You don't need to rewire your distributor for a certain ECU. Your P14 is OBD 1, and the P13 that you buy would be OBD 1. They plug in the same, no changes, except for the addition of two VTEC wires.

    For all of your work, I'm sorry to say, all you have done is made your life harder. How much you want for that H22 dizzy? I wouldn't mind a spare.
     
  5. imprt92

    imprt92 Member

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    ok i look ed hi and low for this blue 2 wire connector! i looked for any 2 wire connector! there is a couple of connectors buy the ecu one is white and one is orange w/ several wires going in to it. have any clue? :(
    thanks
     
  6. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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  7. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    A manual is your friend........
     
  8. imprt92

    imprt92 Member

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    thanks that helped !!
     
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