Getting ready for swap, last minute Q's.

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

9

-94-AccordH22

Senior Member
hey.
im getting ready for my h22 accord swap. i just want to have all the resources ready so i dont spend days researching:

1. can i use the h22 fuel rail and just flip it around so i dont need to extend or buy the 97 rail?

2. im converting to 5 speed, only question is the axles? which ones do i need. some say i can use stock, others say i need drivers and pass. 5 spd axles?

3. Where can i find pinouts for the p13?

4. is it possible at all to use the stock accord drivers side mount? i dont mind doing MINOR fab, as long as i save $?

thanks
 
-94-AccordH22 @ Jan 25 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
hey.
im getting ready for my h22 accord swap. i just want to have all the resources ready so i dont spend days researching:

1. can i use the h22 fuel rail and just flip it around so i dont need to extend or buy the 97 rail?

2. im converting to 5 speed, only question is the axles? which ones do i need. some say i can use stock, others say i need drivers and pass. 5 spd axles?

3. Where can i find pinouts for the p13?

4. is it possible at all to use the stock accord drivers side mount? i dont mind doing MINOR fab, as long as i save $?

thanks
Click to expand...


Check the fuel rail inlet. If its on the driver's side, yes. If its on the pass. side, no. My H22 had it on the driver's side so I didnt need to modify it, but most people seem to have to use the 97 rail or extend the line. Just a quick eyeball will show you.

Pass. Accord axle will work but you will need the Prelude intermed. shaft and driver's side MT axle.

Pinout diagrams are available in our tech articles, if im not mistaken.

You can ghetto-rig it, but if you buy the Hasport mount, you will save tons of time and reduce vibration immensely. If you are going to ghetto-rig it, cut the core out of a spare motor mount, go to Home Depot, buy 2 huge bolts and the rest is self explanatory. I can post a pic if you want.

Also, be prepared to create a bracket to mount the throttle cables onto.

Anyone else want to comment, by all means.
 
well i heard you only need the bracket if i wanted to save the cruise control. but im not so they said i didnt need to make a bracket.

and intermediate shaft, i cant find that little bastard anywhere.
 
-94-AccordH22 @ Jan 25 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
well i heard you only need the bracket if i wanted to save the cruise control. but im not so they said i didnt need to make a bracket.

and intermediate shaft, i cant find that little bastard anywhere.
Click to expand...

Both of my throttle cables were too long and needed to be bracketed.



-94-AccordH22 @ Jan 25 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
are the pinouts for the teg the same for all obd1 ecus?
Click to expand...


Depends on the year of the car. If you're using a 92-25 Lude h22, then your ECU is ODB1. Your Accord is ODB1.

EDIT: Duh, I missed your question. Your ODB1 pinout will work for all the ODB1 ECUs.
 
-94-AccordH22 @ Jan 25 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
yea the ecu is obd1 so the integ pinouts in the tech forums are the same?
Click to expand...


Yeah use that diagram when you're running your VTEC wires. But read Tab's article at the top of the page for which pinouts you'll be running VTEC to. And of course, when you switch A6 and A11. Basically the way I did it was use the diagram to just make sure when I counted the pinouts that I was counting in the right direction. Just quadruple check because those ECU pins are the biggest pain in the ass to get out.

Also,

Autozone Repair Info

for vaccum diagrams.
 
-94-AccordH22 @ Jan 25 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
yea the ecu is obd1 so the integ pinouts in the tech forums are the same?
Click to expand...

The fuel rail is a joke. It either comes in on the driver's side or not. My accord is stock coming in on the passenger side, but Prelude is opposite. Later Accords I hear are coming in on the driver's side. Don't worry about it. Household plumbing is 90+ lbs. of pressure. Fuel is +- 40 lbs of pressure. I'm not scared of that low pressure, and you can run a high quality fuel line wherever you like.

Pinouts are readily available.

The intermediate shaft is hard mounted, and lacks the outer joints of the drive axle. IE, it doesn't touch the rotor area.

The driver's side mount question depends on year and swap. Obviously, it's an easy mount to swap and takes a lesser priority in your decision making process.

I'm kinda feeling good, so take it with a chaser.........and research.
 
so i need the intermediate shaft. and the three bolts holding it on. and the drivers side MT axle. i can use the stock pass side AT axle? and uhh its a 94 or 95 h22a obd1 going into a 94 accord lx AT. and where could i find int. shafts? prob junk yards huh?
 
-94-AccordH22 @ Jan 26 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
so i need the intermediate shaft. and the three bolts holding it on. and the drivers side MT axle. i can use the stock pass side AT axle? and uhh its a 94 or 95 h22a obd1 going into a 94 accord lx AT. and where could i find int. shafts? prob junk yards huh?
Click to expand...

Yes, junkyards or engine importing companies might be willing to sell you one.
 
cool. o yea is the 90-91 int shaft the same as the 92 through 7's? becuase i just placed a bid on one mistakingly not seeing the year of the car. :cry:
 
91 Preludes are different motors........

Ebay allows you to retract your bid if you have a good reason and the auction has not ended yet.
 
lol. yea but the only reason i can chose from is reason on the sellers fault and there is none? i only put 20 down because it was at 1.90 cents so hopefully i get outbid?
 
I usually just say that I misread the info. It's not a problem unless you do it alot, or wait for the auction to end.
 
yea i let the guy know. see what he says. other than that i started taking shit apart today. got the shock tower plugs all undone, pretty much the vaccum lines, and almost the tranny than i called it a day.
that damn starter motor was a pain, the bottom bolt. crazy but anyway. my auto tech teacher said its easier to drop out tranny first so that we can work on the rest of the motor so it can pulled. do i have to take off that sway bar on the front that crossess the tranny so it can be dropped from the bottom?
 
I'd pull the motor and tranny as one unit. If you were just pulling the tranny, you could go that way, but you want to pull the motor, so take them together. I usually drop the thrust mount crossmember, but leave it attached at the suspension, with airtools it goes fast. You can remove it if need be.

The front to back crossmember comes out.
 
i already undid the bellhousing bolts so ill take em' out seperate. plus this is my first time under help from a ASE certified master mech from honda (my high school teacher). and he says ill be able to manuver and make sure nothing gets broken if i take apart as 2 units.
 
I'm pretty sure you can do it either way, but if this is meant as a learning exercise then go for it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top