Give Me Some Help, Please

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civ90hb

Senior Member
94 or 95 B18b engine (what all do i need to replace for a rebuild?)
Greddy Ls Turbo kit
Spearco Intercooler
Greddy Type S Blow Off Valve
MSD Ignition 6BTM
ACT Xtreme Clutch W/ Hybrid Street Disc (any other cluth that's better for cheaper?)
JUN Chromoly Flywheel (any other good cheaper flywheels?)
Walbro Fuel Pump 255 (this good enough?)
Vortech FMU
Magnecor 8.55mm Wires
NGK Race Plugs
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge
Apex Boost Guage
Apex AVC-R Boost Controller
Apex Super AFC
Pistons (what kind, heard je is the best but what else is good for cheaper?)
Eagle Rods
Crower Springs & Retainers (these good?)
Crower Turbo Cam
ARP Head Studs
ARP Rod Bolts

Umm...i think that is all...This sound like a good idea??? Let me know. Thanks. Greg. Give me any info you can!!!
 
get crower's turbo cam, your gonna need bigger injectors, don't bother with the msd stuff unless you want more than 375 hp and 10,000 rpm.

i'm pretty sure the rods come with arp bolts.
do the valvetrain stuff with the cam.
get everything balanced (pistons, rods, crank, flywheel) all the aftermarket stuff should be from the factory(pistons and rods)
i have been told you need something called a "missing link" to run big boost.
get endyne pistons, don't know how much cheaper they are than je but have heard they are better.
might want to go with iridium plugs.
your going to need new bearings for that block and probably get some GSR piston oil squrtiers machined in too.
if you plan on staying with the stock bore i don't think you need sleeves, but might not be a bad idea.
don't forget your wastegate, too
and you'll need a custom down pipe and pretty big exhasut too.
Custom axles from the driveshaft shop will keep you driving your car instead of aving to replace those later too

i just love spending someone elses money.
 
What size injectors do you think i would need? I prefer to get the MSD just because it could come in helpful down the line. Ya the rods come with bolts but ya...I am doing the valvetrain stuff with the cam. How much does it cost to get everything balanced? I'm trying to stay some what cheap yet reliable. What is this "missing link" you speak of? Ya endyne pistons are an option. I will do more research on them. Why do you say iridium instead of NGK? How much do bearings cost? Just get the oem bearings? GSR Piston Oil Squirters? What the hell are those and what do they do? I am going to stay stock bore. I thought of doing sleeves but i am not going all out. Just looking for 12s or high 11s. I'm going with a Tial wastegate. Also custom downpipe and exhaust. 3 inch exhaust sound good? Oh ya about the axels, i'm not sure where would be better to get them, the net or a local shop? Haha. Thanks for all the help. Help me more now.
 
your doing a ton of custom work here so you need to forget the the five letter word that starts with "C".

your going to want everything balanced cause that will help with reliablilty. i don't really know what you should expect to pay cause i live in a small town (less than 14,000) and the closest large city (50,000) is 2 hours away. but i think i can go there and get m crank and flywheel balanced for around $200.

you should definatley go no smaller than 2.75" piping on that turbo.

i say iridium instead of gormal ngk cause they have a cooler spark witch helps with detonation on a turbo motor.

oem bearings will work. and piston oil squrters are basically a little oil jet that shoots oil onto the bottom of the piton to keep it lubed and cool. helpful with reliablitly(all 4g63's have them).

i don't know about the axles though.
 
I like the 5 letter word though haha. So i need to balance my crank, flywheel, and the pistons and rods should be correct? 2.75 as in? I will prolly go iridium. How much would those piston squirters run me? Got a link or anything for them? Lemme know. Thanks again.
 
Before attempting any turbo application, go spend $20.00 on Corky Bells Turbochargers. Read it 2-3 times memorize it. Then disregard anything regarding down pipe size, spool time etc. If you read this book you will learn the correct way to select parts for the application you are looking for. Some myths you will realize are lies fed to the public (some done even by manufacturers) lag is bad(wrong, a properly set up application will incure some lag. Remember you don't want your turbo reaching full boost at low rpm, b/c at high rpms (power band on Honda) your thermal efficiency has left the 60-70% range and is now making more heat than boost.....) I could go on but it would be best for you just to buy the book. I would trust that more than opinions about what to run. Just to set the record straight your down pipe should be 2" -2.25" for up to a 300 whp turbo application on a Honda (again read the book all the equations are laid out right there). If you don't want to read this book, then just pay someone who specializes in turbo apps. This will save you time and prevent blown up motors. Hope this helps alot of people who are confused about selecting the PROPER turbo application.
 
:werd:




I'm not sure how many more of these "mod" lists I can read. They are all so much alike.
 
Wow, thanks alot. I will buy that and read it. Also my mod list originated from another guys setup. He ran a stock bottom and head though. Otherwise i am using most of the same stuff. His car is also a daily driver and he ran 13.3 on slicks. So with the few extra things i am wanting to do and the higher boost i want to run i am hoping for low 13s or high 12s on street tires. We will just see. Also i'm not 1 of those people who are big dreamers. Once i sell my car i will be purchasing much of this. First i'll get that book though. Thanks again.
 
yeah, thanks for the info on the book. can i get that at amazon.com?

about the oil squirters, you should be able to find them in classified ads on the net, i got mine for $20 shipped.
 
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