good manifoil

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

SS autochrome manifolds are generally regarded as being made to very low standards of quality control- It's also accepted that the welds on that manifold are prone to cracking without proper bracing. If you have the time and equipment to go through the entire manifold, weld on braces and clean the excess material and sloppy joint fitament up, then it might just be worth it

but for the most part i would just say to stay away from it
 
so i just buy a DP for 250usd som i can use a drag setup?
aint drag pretty crappy? concidering the WG solution and its not equal length
 
yeah the drag is crappy- it's not equal length and the wastegate only vents gases from one cylinder

but it all depends what kind of power you're trying to make? For not a lot of power, i wouldn't bother upgrading to a different manifold because manifold design isn't going to play a big enough factor in limiting power

if you're trying to make tons of power or even a fairly moderate amount, ditch the drag manny and look for a inlinepro manny- they are equal length, cast and at least the wastegate port can vent gases from all cylinders, even though it is completely perpendicular to exhaust flow- they also sell downpipes that work with their manifolds on their website- for the price, you really would have a hard time beating their manifold
 
well, i think it would be smarter for me to buy a equal length manifoil with a good WG solution and a downpipe for 250$ or just a downpipe for my drag manifoil for the same price...

if the welds go up could it just weld it?
 
ssauto shit > drag in terms of use/power/design

but it will break on you at some point... just a matter of when, really. i'd say 75% of them crack or break in some manner.

but, personally, i'd spend the money and get a real manifold- like an inline pro, and hit up joe at joes muffler shop for some downpipe action if you're that tight on a budget.
 
Originally posted by ^crx^@Oct 12 2004, 01:47 PM
well, i think it would be smarter for me to buy a equal length manifoil with a good WG solution and a downpipe for 250$ or just a downpipe for my drag manifoil for the same price...

if the welds go up could it just weld it?
[post=401698]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...



I made 520 whp with the inline pro and we didn't have any spiking or creeping problems from wg placement. i feel that the inline pro is the best log style mani you can get. unless your trying to make over 600whp thats your best bet.

you can search but i think you'll find drag and that ssauto whatever it's called will crack and you'll be buying a new mani, might as well get a good one the first time.
 
I pulled up to work this morning and decided to just check things out under the hood since its been raining here for 5 days straight and i havent popped the hood since last week. Everything looks good then i notice my i/c piping is about to fall off where it clamps on the turbo. I pull down on it to see how loose it is and the whole damn turbo moved. I am like wtf? Look around some more and see oil right where the turbo bolts to the exhaust housing, That is where it is moving. When i grab the turbo the whole thing except the exhaust housing moves about a 1/4 inch. Can i simply tighten it or is something major wrong?
Click to expand...


from honda-tech...

i hope that fucktard burned his hand when he GRABBED THE TURBO...
 
... I think you are reading way to far into it...

I'm with B in that you have a stud/nut problem when it backs itself out (from thermal expansion and stress). There are special nuts you can buy that won't back out, but the company's name eludes me....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top