good place to install 6x9's in my civic

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truoss

Senior Member
The reason I do not like the factory location on the eg civic hatchback, is that it would cost around $150 to get the speaker brackets and cover!

I also don't really like the idea of cutting holes in the cargo cover, because I don't have a cargo cover, and it would cost around $80 to get one!

So, where else could I put them? I am not partial to 6x9's....6 1/2's would be OK I guess. I was thinking about either making separate boxes for them and just putting them in the back, or installing them in my subwoofer box...that's a bad idea though, right? Speakers and sub in the same enclosure?

Suggestions would be awesome
 
yeah, dont put the middies in with the sub box. both will end up sounding like crap. 6 1/2's and 6x9's don't need a box. they are free-air. just mount them securely to anything you can find, and you'll be good to go.
 
I have alpine 6.5" components in my hatch and i did it all my self, it was pretty easy compared to other things is have done on other cars. In the aspect on 6.5" vs. 6"x9" you will get better bass and response from a 6.5" component sets hands down! My fabrication and install time took only a half a day to get the component set in my doors, the woofer is in the stock speaker location and the tweeter is flush mounted up on the door panel towards the side view mirror....i get complements all the time for it...hope this helps!
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol+Feb 22 2005, 09:29 AM-->
6 1/2's and 6x9's don't need a box. they are free-air.
[post=464407]Quoted post[/post]​
as far as boxes/free air, different drivers have different parameters that judge what types of enclosures are suitible for bass response and power handling. Some mids/subs love free air while others really need boxes for output.

Originally posted by 92CHB@Feb 22 2005, 10:37 AM
In the aspect on 6.5" vs. 6"x9" you will get better bass and response from a 6.5" component sets hands down!
[post=464428]Quoted post[/post]​
I'll ignore polar responses/imaging/what-have-you for now, because A ) most of you dont care, and B ) we're in a car and the bass region (which we all care about) is already in cabin gain(ie the wavelengths are larger than cab, only in total cabin +/- pressure).

If we solely want more bass, a 6x9 will win. Bass is about volume(3d) and a 6x9 will displace more volume than a 6.5 with equal and sometimes less throw/xmax. for example, the tangband w69-1213s vs. w6-1049s

w69 - Sd=.0226 m^2 xmax=4.5 mm Vd=.0001017 m^3 or 101.7 cc
w6 - Sd=.0140 m^2 xmax=5 mm Vd=.00007 m^3 or 70 cc

This shows why bigger speakers go boom, and why some smaller ones with lots of throw can still go boom.

92CHB
@Feb 22 2005, 10:37 AM
the woofer is in the stock speaker location and the tweeter is flush mounted up on the door panel towards the side view mirror....i get complements all the time for it
[post=464428]Quoted post[/post]​
Are all of your speakers facing out from the door? are the tweets pointed towards the driver/passenger? Just wondering if you've used time alignment or reversed the phase of your driver-side tweet or what. The path length is almost twice as big from one side to the other, that could hurt imaging.


Now for the o.g. post, were you going to place them in the rear? What's normally back there? any help with pics or something for ideas?
 
If you want a better sound replace your speakers with high quality aftermarket ones and amp them. I highly doubt you would notice a signicant difference if you moved your rear speakers. In most audio setups rear speakers are filler. If you want better sound relocat your front speakers with a component setup + kicker panels. If you want more base get a sub.

Cliff notes: Leave your rear speaker where they be y0
and
Round speakers > Oval speakers
 
if i had a civic hatch with subs in the back id just replace door speakers then put component sets in kick panels and maybe some tweeters in the dash.
if your subs are worth a shit then you wont hear the back speakers anyway.
 
Truoss, I'll say this: why even get speakers in the back? You don't like where they'll have to go and it'll be a waste of money anyways. Just upgrade your front stage and keep the subs.


as far as this stuff goes...

Originally posted by micah+Feb 22 2005, 03:11 PM-->
if i had a civic hatch with subs in the back id just replace door speakers then put component sets in kick panels and maybe some tweeters in the dash.
[post=464639]Quoted post[/post]​
Huh? 6.5's in the doors, 6.5's and tweet in kick, and tweet in dash? I don't get what you're saying. Perhaps you meant midbass in door, mid in kick, and tweet in dash. But then you'll be looking for a component set with a 1"/4"/6" set of drivers, good luck for cheap, eh? And you're better off putting tweets with mid in the kicks(pathlength issues).

Originally posted by micah@Feb 22 2005, 03:11 PM
if your subs are worth a shit then you wont hear the back speakers anyway.
[post=464639]Quoted post[/post]​
If your subs are shit, then you wouldn't hear rear speakers with subs. Im not sure on exact numbers, but I bet if you had subs running at 145db and mids running at 125 you'd still hear all of it because they're playing different freqs. If you had junk subs/crossovers playing high freq out of your subs you'd be screwed in more ways than one.

projectxspeed
@Feb 22 2005, 12:15 PM
Cliff notes: Leave your rear speaker where they be y0
and
Round speakers > Oval speakers
[post=464495]Quoted post[/post]​
When did you discuss round vs. oval?(ie how can those be cliffs notes?) :)
Anyways, yeah round is better because of distortion and weird cone modes (look at the 6x9's impedance curve and its ripples). But for pure bass they still have more cone area.
 
I already have Infinity kappa perfect 6 1/2 components installed in my doors, and I have an MTX 10" sub in a large sealed encloser in the back. It sounds really good, but I still want some back fill. I disagree that I won't be able to hear rear speakers with my setup.

I do not have the rear speaker brackets, or the covers....so I am trying to avoid haveng to buy those. I also do not have a cargo cover. Are there any other places that 6x9's, or 6 1/2's could be mounted in the rear? I was only thinking about putting them in boxes, because that would solve my mounting problem. ;-)
 
Well, you couldn't mount them IN the boxes, they'd act like real small passive radiators because the sub would play and push them in and out. You could build a box/s and put it/them on top of the sub box.

And to reiterate, if you can hear you're front speakers, you'll obviously be able to hear any rear speakers. (unless we're talking freq's shared by mid and sub(which we don't do, right?))

And i actually said oval > round in some instances. My second response was a cue for you to support your 'point' :) .
 
i agree to keep the speakers their stock location...either get good ones and amp them or just amp them. They make a big difference when amped! Ohh and just cuz you have a sub in the back doesnt mean you can't have highs back there either. It creates the surround saound effect.
 
Which is desirable in a two-channel medium? All it does is distort the soundstage.
 
stereo is two channel, neh? See any stereos with rear speakers?*

"Stereo Imaging refers to the ability of a set of speakers to accurately reproduce sound so that, with eyes closed, you can distinctly recognize and localize the sounds of the various instruments and voices in any recording. The positions of the voices and instruments should be easily identifiable and shouldn't seem to change with frequency variation. The speakers themselves should seem to disappear, replaced instead by a spatial arrangement of music sources, or soundstage"

which gets messed with in surround applications.

*note: i mean, *real* stereos; not quadraphonic or theater (btw surround music is a gimmick, leave movies to surround)
 
TommeyTheCat, you sound like the God of car Audio! Where'd you learn all this stuff anyway? Awesome... Thanks for your input. Thanks to everyone else as well.

Well, I'm still undecided. But I am thinking that the best way might be to buy the cargo cover for $80, and mount the 6x9's or 6 1/2's on it. I plan on getting Infinity's and running them with a 75watt RMS amp.

Let me know if there are any major drawbacks to mounting the speakers on the cargo cover. ;-)
 
Thanks, but while I do know some, i really don't know jack. I listen to friends, hear their opinions and findings, read forums like soundillusions or carsound and try to read as much as I can online or in book form. A small understanding of physics and circuits helps too, along with a good common sense and skeptical attitude.

Check out Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, good start for everyone on all aspects of audio.
 
I also mean REAL stereos. great speech dude. I still say keep the speakers in the same position and amp the bitches. But then again it's not my car. I've done alot of my own car stereo stuff and it always sounded clean and crisp. Tommy i'm not saying you wrong. your absolutely right.
Later dudes!
 
I'd recommend getting 6 1/2's for the back, it will save you a lot of trouble and will look better in the long run. I've got 4 Infinity Kappa coaxials with the tweeters pointing directly to the listener's ears in all 4 seats. They are powered by an Audiobahn A4004T, which has enough power to make your ears bleed if you wanted them to. As long you run a decent amp to your speakers you will get loud and clear output, regardless of speaker size. In all the setups I've heard, 6x9's were always louder, amped or not. However, 6 1/2's always sounded clearer in my opinion when they were amplified. It really depends on the brand and quality of the speakers, and if you are running crossovers on them or not.
 
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