Got a lude yesterday. H22 swap doesnt want to start when its cold??
- Thread starter Depriesticles
- Start date
- Replies 51
- Views 15K
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
Depriesticles
Kids these days...
Does the VTEC have something directly to do with the dizzy wiring? Im going to have to do some research on an h22 swap and see what I can find out. Id like to get my VTEC working asap. If nothing else...I guess I can just get a vtec controller and still run the p14, but I REALLY dont like going the back way around things. I would really rather hook things up right and be able to use the p13 like the way a proper h22 swap is supposed to.
*stupid people attempting motor swaps should have their knees broken and have hot wax dripped in their eyes*
Im tired of finding things wrong with this car. This guy should have never attempted this without prior knowledge, or at least an extensive ammount of research. Doing things the round-about way and not getting the result you want...so you just trade the car to someone and lie to them about almost every aspect of the car, is just wrong. At least be honest with the person.
Im a bit pissed about this by the way. I got cheated and it blows. Sorry if I offended anyone.
*stupid people attempting motor swaps should have their knees broken and have hot wax dripped in their eyes*
Im tired of finding things wrong with this car. This guy should have never attempted this without prior knowledge, or at least an extensive ammount of research. Doing things the round-about way and not getting the result you want...so you just trade the car to someone and lie to them about almost every aspect of the car, is just wrong. At least be honest with the person.
Im a bit pissed about this by the way. I got cheated and it blows. Sorry if I offended anyone.
Depriesticles
Kids these days...
Pics of the motor
Its the sensor with the white plug that I wired in.
I ran the wires through the main harness to make everything look like stock. You can see the red wires going in and coming out of the harness, and the 2 plugs on the end. One is the one I wired in, the other was just crimped on and jimmy rigged together.
D13 is where the ECT sensor needed to be wired in...it is a white wire with a red stripe located on this plug. This is after I took the black tape off from around the bumdle.
I cut the wire, stripped, tinned, and connected my ran wire in with it.
After heat shrink and replace the black tape, it looks just like stock.
Then I moved under the dash to fix the wires to the ecu.
There was black tape wrapped around a couple of the wires, and when I took the black tape off, the wires were exposed underneath.
A bit of solder and heat shrink and its back to new!
Then I moved to the blower motor. You can see the cut wire, and how he ran it over to the left. That wire was wired directly into the heater switch.
Solder it back together and everything is good as gold.
Next is to order an air boost valve block off plate cuz this just isnt cutting it for me.
Well this was my adventure after work last night. What do you guys think? I believe in doing things wright and taking my time with it...not doing it cheap and quick.
Its the sensor with the white plug that I wired in.
I ran the wires through the main harness to make everything look like stock. You can see the red wires going in and coming out of the harness, and the 2 plugs on the end. One is the one I wired in, the other was just crimped on and jimmy rigged together.
D13 is where the ECT sensor needed to be wired in...it is a white wire with a red stripe located on this plug. This is after I took the black tape off from around the bumdle.
I cut the wire, stripped, tinned, and connected my ran wire in with it.
After heat shrink and replace the black tape, it looks just like stock.
Then I moved under the dash to fix the wires to the ecu.
There was black tape wrapped around a couple of the wires, and when I took the black tape off, the wires were exposed underneath.
A bit of solder and heat shrink and its back to new!
Then I moved to the blower motor. You can see the cut wire, and how he ran it over to the left. That wire was wired directly into the heater switch.
Solder it back together and everything is good as gold.
Next is to order an air boost valve block off plate cuz this just isnt cutting it for me.
Well this was my adventure after work last night. What do you guys think? I believe in doing things wright and taking my time with it...not doing it cheap and quick.
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
Good job on the wiring.. You can make your own plate if you have the materials..
I wouldn't ever let that person touch a vehicle that I hold any value to. Ever.
Did you ever get the 'won't start when cold' problem solved?
Depriesticles
Kids these days...
I would, but I dont have the materials on hand, and it would be just as much to buy one as it would be to make one I think. I found a place online that I can buy a block off plate for $18+shipping.
Although, I have been thinking about it, and I might try to hook the air boost valve back up since I am having problems with it starting when its cold.
No, this guy should never be allowed around a car agian. lol.
No, I havent gotten my main problem fixed. It has been especially cold out lately too, and I went out today to see how it would start in this freezing temperature...and it only made it worse. It took WAY longer for it to start this time around. The colder it is, the harder time it has starting.
Im wondering if the whole ecu issue has something to do with it. I bought a set of injectors toady on ebay. Stock obd1 h22 345cc injectors on ebay for $39 shipped at auction end. When I get these, and install them, I will try hooking up the p13 again and see how it does.
I also have an msd ignition system I am going to put on it hopefully tomorrow if I have the time. I was going to do this tonight, but I decided to take my wife to dinner and a movie instead. Family time is just as important than a kick ass car. lmao.
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
How can you say that... What is bad about them... It worked great when I was running NOS, i was using the MSD digital 6 plus.. But everyone has there own opinions.
Depriesticles
Kids these days...
The fuel pump is fine. Its only when the car is cold that is has a hard time. I can even let it sit for an hour and it will start easier than it will in the morning. The colder the motor is, the harder time it has starting...on the other hand, the closer to running temp the motor is, the easier it will fire up and idle with no issues.
Ive never had an msd ignition system before...why are they garbage? I have never heard anything bad about them before.
Ive never had an msd ignition system before...why are they garbage? I have never heard anything bad about them before.
You sure it's fine? What's your fuel pressure when the car has been sitting overnight? Whatabout once it's completed a drive cycle?
As far as MSD, what is the advantage of MSD over your stock ignition? What will the MSD do for you that your OEM ignition won't? Where specifically does the MSD outperform the stock ignition? Please provide factual answers, not what you see on PowerBlock.
As far as MSD, what is the advantage of MSD over your stock ignition? What will the MSD do for you that your OEM ignition won't? Where specifically does the MSD outperform the stock ignition? Please provide factual answers, not what you see on PowerBlock.
Last edited:
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
Well from what I know but correct me if im wrong.. MSD gives you better throttle response, little better fuel economy, helps with power adders as it retards the timing, It doesn't really outperform the stock untill your car has a lot more HP, has a higher spark output, able to have two step rev limiter, change the overall rev limiter. But some of this stuff can be done with a chipped ECU.. Just my opinion..
You know all this? How's that?
How does it give you better throttle response? What factors actually affect throttle response, do you even know?
How would an MSD ignition give you better fuel economy?
It helps with power adders because it retards the timing? That's really one of your reasons for an MSD? That statement right there shows that you know almost NOTHING about what you're talking about.
HOW does it outperform stock when you have a higher HP?
How does it provide a higher spark output, and how is a higher spark output beneficial - ESPECIALLY on a high compression/high HP build?
This stuff isn't something that's a matter of 'opinion', it's a matter of 'fact'.
Every reason you just provided for MSD being better than OEM sounds like it came directly off the wall display at AutoZone.
And yes, you're wrong.
I am not certain on my explanation but I do know MSD improves fuel combustion.
MSD = Multiple Spark D(I dont know lol)
More sparks are discharged throughout the first initial spark. It just sparks more and burns left over fuel.
I do know MSD does not do much at all but can make a difference in higher hp drag applications (anything is something when you're at that point)
MSD = Multiple Spark D(I dont know lol)
More sparks are discharged throughout the first initial spark. It just sparks more and burns left over fuel.
I do know MSD does not do much at all but can make a difference in higher hp drag applications (anything is something when you're at that point)
Depriesticles
Kids these days...
If you dont like it, then dont use it...but why would you fault someone else for their build on their car? I dont really care what you think. I have an msd ignition system, and im going to put it on my car. Its not like its effecting you in any way what I do to my car, so why are you trying to talk me out of it? Your not the one having to pay for it or do any of the work, so who are you to tell me what to do with my car?
Depriesticles
Kids these days...
I was talking to civicious. Sorry if you thought that was directed to you CAFROG.
I understand that the msd is not going to enhance the performance or mpg of my car, but I got it for free and I dont see how upgrading the ignition is going to hurt my car in any way. I am hoping that by increasing the spark output while my car is cold, it will help my car to start better when it is cold. If it does not do that, oh well. I am in no worse position than I am in now, and I have an aftermarket ignition system. You know what I mean? If nothing else, msd burns the fuel cleaner. I am all for having things in my engine cleaner.
I understand that the msd is not going to enhance the performance or mpg of my car, but I got it for free and I dont see how upgrading the ignition is going to hurt my car in any way. I am hoping that by increasing the spark output while my car is cold, it will help my car to start better when it is cold. If it does not do that, oh well. I am in no worse position than I am in now, and I have an aftermarket ignition system. You know what I mean? If nothing else, msd burns the fuel cleaner. I am all for having things in my engine cleaner.
I feel all mixed up when it comes to whats going on with your car
What happened with the FITV stuff?
How is your car's running temperament changed since the VTEC ECU was put in??
Do you know if the original ECU (when you bought it) was chipped?
What about the CEL bulb/wiring? Need to take the cluster out unless you can see from under the dash.
What happened with the FITV stuff?
How is your car's running temperament changed since the VTEC ECU was put in??
Do you know if the original ECU (when you bought it) was chipped?
What about the CEL bulb/wiring? Need to take the cluster out unless you can see from under the dash.
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
Civicious Im not arguing with you on this subject. I never said msd is better I just said it helps in a few different ways. And if you didn't read what I said in the first sentence I said "correct me if im wrong" but the things I listed are just from my experience and from some of my best friends that own and build 800hp mustangs and chevy's..
I'm not trying to argue with anyone, or start an argument, or convince you to either use MSD or not, or what to put on your car and what not to.
I'm a professional technician, and I make my living working on cars such as Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, BMW, and Mercedes. I got to the level to be able to work on cars of this caliber by working my way up and by proving myself, and by rarely (if ever) being wrong on a diagnosis. I make my living not only doing performance work on cars that cost more than most people here's houses, but also troubleshooting those same vehicles.
I am offering insight into the problem for which this thread was originally created - your car is hard to start when it's cold. If you don't want to take the advice of someone who does this for a living, don't. But don't cop an attitude - especially when you came onto this forum asking for help and/or advice with your problem.
Like I asked earlier, what's your fuel pressure upon cold start, and what is it once it's warmed up? Hard start upon sitting for a while and/or hard cold start is a common problem with MANY different manufacturers...guess what the problem usually is? It's the fuel system, and those vehicles do EXACTLY what you're describing. What happens is the fuel system doesn't retain pressure and loses prime, and the fuel that's in the fuel lines drains back down into the fuel tank. When you come out to start the car once it's been sitting, the fuel system has to re-prime itsself - which is hard when it's cold, and especially hard with a weak fuel pump. The reason it will run once you've been cranking on it a while is because with the key on and the engine cranking, the fuel pump is running, and building pressure back up in the fuel lines. I'll bet if you drive the car down the road, shut off the engine, wait a few minutes, and try to start it again it'll crank right up - but if you wait more than an hour or so it'll be hard to start again. Am I right? This happens because in that period of time, the system doesn't have enough time to bleed itsself back down and lose pressure, and you've still got fuel pressure retained in the lines.
Some fuel systems have a regulator on the fuel rail (like most older Hondas - your prelude included I believe), and also have some sort of regulator internal to the fuel pump. If it were me, I would replace just the regulator to start, since it's extremely easy to get to (two 10mm bolts on the end of the fuel rail, one vacuum line, and one fuel line). Check your fuel pressure, then replace the regulator and check it again. If that still doesn't fix it, replace the fuel pump.
But hey, like I said, if you don't want advice from knowledgeable people, then don't ask. If you keep throwing parts at it, sooner or later I'm sure something you replace will fix it.
And by the way, putting on an ignition that 'increases spark' isn't going to make a difference when there isn't any fuel in the combustion chamber to be burned. The spark can be the hottest spark in the history of the world, but it isn't going to make a difference if there isn't anything for it to ignite.
I'm a professional technician, and I make my living working on cars such as Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, BMW, and Mercedes. I got to the level to be able to work on cars of this caliber by working my way up and by proving myself, and by rarely (if ever) being wrong on a diagnosis. I make my living not only doing performance work on cars that cost more than most people here's houses, but also troubleshooting those same vehicles.
I am offering insight into the problem for which this thread was originally created - your car is hard to start when it's cold. If you don't want to take the advice of someone who does this for a living, don't. But don't cop an attitude - especially when you came onto this forum asking for help and/or advice with your problem.
Like I asked earlier, what's your fuel pressure upon cold start, and what is it once it's warmed up? Hard start upon sitting for a while and/or hard cold start is a common problem with MANY different manufacturers...guess what the problem usually is? It's the fuel system, and those vehicles do EXACTLY what you're describing. What happens is the fuel system doesn't retain pressure and loses prime, and the fuel that's in the fuel lines drains back down into the fuel tank. When you come out to start the car once it's been sitting, the fuel system has to re-prime itsself - which is hard when it's cold, and especially hard with a weak fuel pump. The reason it will run once you've been cranking on it a while is because with the key on and the engine cranking, the fuel pump is running, and building pressure back up in the fuel lines. I'll bet if you drive the car down the road, shut off the engine, wait a few minutes, and try to start it again it'll crank right up - but if you wait more than an hour or so it'll be hard to start again. Am I right? This happens because in that period of time, the system doesn't have enough time to bleed itsself back down and lose pressure, and you've still got fuel pressure retained in the lines.
Some fuel systems have a regulator on the fuel rail (like most older Hondas - your prelude included I believe), and also have some sort of regulator internal to the fuel pump. If it were me, I would replace just the regulator to start, since it's extremely easy to get to (two 10mm bolts on the end of the fuel rail, one vacuum line, and one fuel line). Check your fuel pressure, then replace the regulator and check it again. If that still doesn't fix it, replace the fuel pump.
But hey, like I said, if you don't want advice from knowledgeable people, then don't ask. If you keep throwing parts at it, sooner or later I'm sure something you replace will fix it.
And by the way, putting on an ignition that 'increases spark' isn't going to make a difference when there isn't any fuel in the combustion chamber to be burned. The spark can be the hottest spark in the history of the world, but it isn't going to make a difference if there isn't anything for it to ignite.
Last edited:
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
calm down its not my thread. Im here trying to help him too.. I just stated I like msd cause he said he was going to put one on.. You got a kick azz job and im sure your good at what you do.. so lets help the OP figure this out...
Similar threads
