I am offering insight into the problem for which this thread was originally created - your car is hard to start when it's cold. If you don't want to take the advice of someone who does this for a living, don't. But don't cop an attitude - especially when you came onto this forum asking for help and/or advice with your problem.
I appreciate you offering your insight, and I apologize if I misconstrued your meaning. It seemed to me like you were telling me to not use the msd, and I believe in "to each his own". I was only trying to defend myself on what I believe to be something that if not beneficial, then at least wont hurt my car, and might even help some of my problem. I have run into a lot of people on different forums who "bash" on me because of the way I choose to build my car, and I am probably quick to get defensive because of it. Again, Im sorry.
Like I asked earlier, what's your fuel pressure upon cold start, and what is it once it's warmed up?
What do I do to check my fuel pressure?
I feel all mixed up when it comes to whats going on with your car
What happened with the FITV stuff?
How is your car's running temperament changed since the VTEC ECU was put in??
Do you know if the original ECU (when you bought it) was chipped?
What about the CEL bulb/wiring? Need to take the cluster out unless you can see from under the dash.
I replaced the fitv and it acts exactly the same. I had 2 extras on manifolds I got with the car, and they make no difference.
I didnt put the vtec ecu yet. I tried it, but the car ran extremely poorly with it in. After doing research, I believe its because the injectors that are in the car are h23 injectors which put out 240cc of fuel, and the p13 is calling for 345cc, which is the stock h22 injector size. To solve this, I ordered a set of OEM h22 injectors. When they get here, I will install them and try out the p13 again.
A mechanic I was talking to told me this might be where my problem lies also. The motor is built to run on 345cc injectors, and when its cold out it needs those injectors to be wide open to supply the fuel for the car to start properly. He told me to get some injectors that were made for the motor, and put the correct ECU in it, and that extra fuel being put into the motor at a cold start would be all it needs to start properly. I dont know much about this, but it seems to make sense the way he explained it to me...so I will find out when they get here if this fixes my problem.
I dont know for sure if the ecu is chipped, but I highly doubt it. I dont think the guy who owned it before me would spend the money to have that done. He seemed to like to do everything the cheap and round-a-bout way. But like I said...I am not certain about this.
I have not yet replaced the bulb for the check engine light. I ordered a gauge cluster on ebay, and received it this week. I was going to replace the bulb when I put the new cluster in, but the cluster I got is damaged and ugly, and I dont want it in my car...so I opened a case (since there was no mention of the damage in the posting) and am going to ship the cluster back for a refund of my money. Now that this has happened though, I am going to replace the bulb tomorrow without the cluster. I am just going to do a EL cluster conversion in it instead. I found a full conversion with a harness and dimmer switch and all for $150, so I think I am going to pick that up.
.. so lets help the OP figure this out...
Whats an OP? And why am I one?
