Got my latest "mod"
- Thread starter jamesA
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haha ok. 21 bucks difference from rip off to not.
I'll look at it and shop around though. Thanks for the link, I'll spend more... even though I've already added every plan up to a total of about 11 grand.
Ya, wtf you get LCA's for? huge waste of your $105 man, they are completely useless. Camber correction is what you want? You can use washers from the hardware store to space out the upper control arm.
And just like everyone else said, an A/F gauge on a narrowband O2 is also totally useless.
I do like the guage bezel though
And just like everyone else said, an A/F gauge on a narrowband O2 is also totally useless.
I do like the guage bezel though
brian11to1
Senior Member
yes, af on a narrowband or stock o2 is pretty gay. a friend, well actually 3 of em had the AF gauge on their cars two were cavaliers and the other was a civic w/ls i believe yea, all they did was sweep back and forth, no real reading.
also, you can also make your own wideband, for cheap. not sure how effective it is... but its an alternative. http://www.diy-wb.com/
also, you can also make your own wideband, for cheap. not sure how effective it is... but its an alternative. http://www.diy-wb.com/
Quoted post[/post]]
Ya, wtf you get LCA's for? huge waste of your $105 man, they are completely useless. Camber correction is what you want? You can use washers from the hardware store to space out the upper control arm.
And just like everyone else said, an A/F gauge on a narrowband O2 is also totally useless.
I do like the guage bezel though
You really know how to bring a guy down.
(minus that last line, thanks.)Money's spent, it's a done deal. So whether they help or not, oh well. But still, I'd rather not cheap out and get a 5 cent washer only to have it break and fuck up my suspension and tires.
Nah, I know phone systems...not how to build widebands. I'll spend the money, I have some now.
Sorry to bring you down manQuoted post[/post]]
Quoted post[/post]]
Ya, wtf you get LCA's for? huge waste of your $105 man, they are completely useless. Camber correction is what you want? You can use washers from the hardware store to space out the upper control arm.
And just like everyone else said, an A/F gauge on a narrowband O2 is also totally useless.
I do like the guage bezel though
You really know how to bring a guy down.
Money's spent, it's a done deal. So whether they help or not, oh well. But still, I'd rather not cheap out and get a 5 cent washer only to have it break and fuck up my suspension and tires.
You should research before you buy. But honestly, I use the washer method on my track car, which gets much more stress put on its suspension components than any street driven car ever would. Cool thing is, if the washers did somehow break, you just go back having more negative camber, which can't mess anything up except tread wear. But I don't see galvonized washers being squished by side loads on a 2500lb car to the extent of making them fail.
Celerity
Well-Known Member
Jon... Dropshop ?
Also, I have a narrowband O2 and a gauge in the truck, it's not "completely" useless. I mean, you try to make it scan the yellow as much as possible. But for visual cues, a narrowband is just fine for a gauge. If you're running engine management, you don't want it to make calculations for .3 volts one second, .6 the next, .2 the next, then .7 the next so on and so on.
Also, I have a narrowband O2 and a gauge in the truck, it's not "completely" useless. I mean, you try to make it scan the yellow as much as possible. But for visual cues, a narrowband is just fine for a gauge. If you're running engine management, you don't want it to make calculations for .3 volts one second, .6 the next, .2 the next, then .7 the next so on and so on.
or is his name John? 92civiccx? I suck at remembering some peoples screen names.
Anyway, on the advice given I've decided against getting the A/F gauge. But now the question stands, what gauge should I get to fill the gaping hole in the dash bezel now?
EGT gauge?
oil?
temp?
How accurate is the factory temp gauge?
Anyway, on the advice given I've decided against getting the A/F gauge. But now the question stands, what gauge should I get to fill the gaping hole in the dash bezel now?
EGT gauge?
oil?
temp?
How accurate is the factory temp gauge?
Celerity
Well-Known Member
holy shit. I imagine that would be much better than one of those Gtech pieces of shit.
how much is that thing? That'd be good tool, if it works properly.
how much is that??? i'd like to have one
brian11to1
Senior Member
as far as the gauge for the gaping hole... oil pressure since you dont have one.
from what i understand the stock temp gauge is fairly accurate. there's a spread of temperatures that he gauge is designed not to move so it doesnt freak the owner/driver out. with it moving up and down
from what i understand the stock temp gauge is fairly accurate. there's a spread of temperatures that he gauge is designed not to move so it doesnt freak the owner/driver out. with it moving up and down
i say stick a oil pressure and water temp guages in the bezel. black face will look ten times better then anything else since it will match the black face of the si cluster. but thats my opinion.
if you want a wb, i say go with the plx m300. i like it better then the lm-1 for the fact that it actually has a display you can mount. to get a display you can mount with the lm-1 is like another 300 bucks. the lm-1 comes with a display, but its arranged like a calculator, for tuning purposes obviously but IMO datalogging is the best way to tune.
just my .02
if you want a wb, i say go with the plx m300. i like it better then the lm-1 for the fact that it actually has a display you can mount. to get a display you can mount with the lm-1 is like another 300 bucks. the lm-1 comes with a display, but its arranged like a calculator, for tuning purposes obviously but IMO datalogging is the best way to tune.
just my .02
