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Got some questions for my build

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by brian11to1, Jul 8, 2006.

  1. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    Ok, so Im building a moderately high compression LSVTEC. I have some questions

    Fuel System Questions
    Will an aftermarket fuel rail be needed in order to use STOCK 92-96 prelude VTEC injectors?

    My fuel pump is old and will need replaced. I have no idea on what size to get or even what size the stock one is. I read on ImportBuilds.com that nonvtec fuel pumps can handle up to 300 hp, vtec fuel pumps are rated at 375 hp. That true? If it is, then I will just buy a replacement for my car. If not, then, make some suggestions.

    Fuel lines - is there a benefit in changing from stock rubber lines to a stainless line with an inline fuel pump. I mean, other than cosmetic.

    PVC - Catch Can - Breather setup Questions
    Can someone show me pictures of an installed system, and what are hte benefit of doing this on an all-motor car. I've read a lot of articles on "theoldone.com - endyn" but, I just cant figure our the benefits or if I even need it.

    Acutal Compression
    The pistons will have a 5.5cc dome from what Jeff told me via emails. So, with that said how do I go about figuring the exact compression? This is the formula

    CR= D+PV+DC+G+CC
    PV+DC+G+CC
    I used the c-speedracing calculator as well as the zeal auto. On c-speed I got 11.42:1 CR w/1857.3867 cc's On zealautowerks, I used the JDM ITR pistons becuase it was the closted to the dish volume of +5.5cc. I wasnt sure what the comp. hieght was. On zeal, I needed a 12.44 CR w/1857.37 cc's. Please help me determine which one it is. I would like to keep compression below 11:1 if possible, I heard it easier to tune in Arizona.​

    Below are specs of my build, some of the stuff I have some I dont. Pistons, rods, bearigns, lower end gaskets/seals and bearings I dotn have among some other shit.

    Please, give me some insight, answer my questions the best you can without being an asshole.

    Some specs on my build.

    Block
    • 91 LS block
    • cleaned, decked, honed and bored to 81.5 bore
    • 81.5mm 11:1 cr ibspec pistons
    • polished/balanced crank
    • ibspec i beam rods
    • arp bolts/hardware
    • itr oil pump
    • itr water pump
    • itr timing belt/tensioner
    • honda bearings/gaskets/seals
    Head
    • 91 b16a sir1 head milled .001" (ten thousandths)
    • itr valve springs, retainers
    • sir1 b16 cams (for now)
    • shimmed prelude LMA's
    • golden eagle vtec kit w/headgasket
    • honda gaskets/seals
    • hondata IM gasket
    • polished itr intake manifold (this thing is tits)
    • JDM itr 4-1 header (got it cheap no complaints)
    Tuning
    • BRE w/Datalogging on a OBD0 PW0 (convert to OBD1 after a few months, when funds are back up and good to go.)
    • conservative tune for MPG
    • vtec at 5000
    • Some sort of VTEC controller, fields, spoon...
    • 9K redline
    • Innovative Wideband O2
    Let me know, Im sure there are some things I missed. But, this is the just of my questions.
     
  2. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    Ok so nobody has any insight on any of this? not even the know-it-alls?
     
  3. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Fuel rail- not sure, but 90% sure you can just drop Prelude injectors straight in to the stock fuel rail.

    Buy a new in tank Walbro 255lph fuel pump. You'll want it for any other power upgrades later, and it's just good cheaop insurance. You can buy them for less than $100 new.

    Don't bother with the inline pump and SS line. It's not necessary.

    Catch can- I don't have pictures of the back of my block, but you basically hook up a hose between the catch can and one (or both) of the big hex plug thingies on the back of your block. It helps to alleviate crank case pressure and reduces the amount of wasted work that your engine has to do. You can also hook up a line to the breather port on your valve cover. If your can is vented (not emissions legal, but better- and they never caught me), that's the best. You'll keep the crankcase and valve cover running at ambient air pressure.

    I don't know about your compression if you don't have the compression height. 11.0:1 all the way to 12.0:1 shouldn't be too bad to tune in the Arizona heat. If I can make 12.6:1 survive in Texas with 92 octane, you can do it with something slightly lower on 91. Just make sure you tune slowly, or get someone who really knows what they're doing on the dyno. I don't know how much tuning experience you have.

    You might want to considering sending your pistons out to be ceramic coated. You'll gain some efficiency from a thermal barrier coating on top and even more from a lubrication coating on the skirts. I used Swain Technology. Swain is one of the best companies out there. A set of 4 pistons will cost you about $150 to coat.

    The parts list looks good.
     
  4. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    Thanks man, finally some answers.

    I have more questions, but Im at work... a little busy... lol. Ill post later when Im cuaght up at work.
     
  5. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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