Got started on my Wire Tuck! 56k warning(I hope I know what I'm doing...)
- Thread starter Andrew
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Andrew
Active Member
Yeah, I know I could have split it, but I didn't feel like it. I would have taken a couple more dollars and I wanted to keep my cash. Thanks for the idea though.
And vtecsir1, Thanks for the comment, but I'm in college for Aviation Mech, and we've covered everything there is to know about AC and DC circuits. The fact is, yes you cause slightly more resistance by 1. lengthening the wires, and 2. at the solder points(even though soldering is one of the best ways to do it., however, it wouldn't affect such a simple, small circuit as headlight wiring, especially when you only lengthen them less than a foot....
And it's just common sense-
If it did... don't you think more guys who have wiretucks will have problems?
Thanks for the comment, but rest assured there isnt anything wrong with lengthening a couple wires.
And vtecsir1, Thanks for the comment, but I'm in college for Aviation Mech, and we've covered everything there is to know about AC and DC circuits. The fact is, yes you cause slightly more resistance by 1. lengthening the wires, and 2. at the solder points(even though soldering is one of the best ways to do it., however, it wouldn't affect such a simple, small circuit as headlight wiring, especially when you only lengthen them less than a foot....
And it's just common sense-
If it did... don't you think more guys who have wiretucks will have problems?
Thanks for the comment, but rest assured there isnt anything wrong with lengthening a couple wires.
ScrapinSi
Senior Member
Are those rags you are using to mask everythign off!?!?!
And FYI, NHRA States a battery box when located in the trunk must have:
A. Be secured by at least two 3/16" bolts through the floor of the car.
B. Have a battery cutoff switch on the outside
C. If it is a standard battery, must be located inside of an NHRA Approved Sealed Battery Box. (Not required for Optimas and such). And those battery boxes usually have a vent tube that runs outside the car.
And FYI, NHRA States a battery box when located in the trunk must have:
A. Be secured by at least two 3/16" bolts through the floor of the car.
B. Have a battery cutoff switch on the outside
C. If it is a standard battery, must be located inside of an NHRA Approved Sealed Battery Box. (Not required for Optimas and such). And those battery boxes usually have a vent tube that runs outside the car.
Andrew
Active Member
Yeah it's a mixture of rags, shopping bags, and tape. Thats how I roll...
Thanks for the battery information, but I'm not done installing it... it's just sitting there right now. I've just been slacking on it.. I've been focusing on the engine bay.
Thanks again though.
-Andrew
Thanks for the battery information, but I'm not done installing it... it's just sitting there right now. I've just been slacking on it.. I've been focusing on the engine bay.
Thanks again though.
-Andrew
Nice mask job!
thanks for that info man!
I guess I'll have to buy an optima now
theyre expensive as hell.
Andrew
Active Member
Thanks
I've still got to mask off the Xmember's, but then I'll spray it.
I picked up a couple cans of Acryllic Laquer today(white), and since I went with laquer I won't even bother with clearcoat.... since it's got a semi-clear finish anyway.
I'll be out of town this weekend, but plan on spraying the bay Monday morning.
Till then...
Cool. I want to change colors on my truck, but it's going to take a bit more work. I'm not planning on plucking the engine to do it.
brian11to1
Senior Member
Your shit is looking betteR...
I did my tuck recently... turnd out pretty good i think.
Both sides
the following are only the passenger side
The fuse panel is mounted behind the evaporator and above the ECU.
I also relocated the batter to the trunk using a rockford fosgate amp wiring kit. I got the kit really cheap, my buddy worked at best buy at the time... so we got the 79 kit for 25... i was happy. I used an Odyssey 545 battery, I think its a little small as i have some problems with it sometimes..
Sorry andrew, didnt mean to thread jack.
I did my tuck recently... turnd out pretty good i think.
Both sides
the following are only the passenger side
The fuse panel is mounted behind the evaporator and above the ECU.
I also relocated the batter to the trunk using a rockford fosgate amp wiring kit. I got the kit really cheap, my buddy worked at best buy at the time... so we got the 79 kit for 25... i was happy. I used an Odyssey 545 battery, I think its a little small as i have some problems with it sometimes..
Sorry andrew, didnt mean to thread jack.
Last edited:
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
Looks good Andrew.
When I did the Battery Relocation in my 89 4 door, I just put the fuse panel wire to the starter and ran 2g wire from the starter to the trunk. I used one of the Marine box's they have at autozone. The box cam with 2 brackets that bolt to the car and you run a strap (comes with the bax also) through the brackets and up over the box. Worked great, strapped down nice and tight, no play in it at all.
Anyway, down side to that was the first time I went to the track (1/4 mile) and the guys saw it, he said the way the box was tied down (with the strap) it wasn't in spec's for me to race because it needs to be bolted down with at least 3/4 inch bolts and on any car that you relocate the battery in needs to have an outside switch that cuts ALL power when switched off. He also told me that if you relocate the battery and are using a gel type battery, i.e. an Optima, you don't need to have it in a box.
When I did the Battery Relocation in my 89 4 door, I just put the fuse panel wire to the starter and ran 2g wire from the starter to the trunk. I used one of the Marine box's they have at autozone. The box cam with 2 brackets that bolt to the car and you run a strap (comes with the bax also) through the brackets and up over the box. Worked great, strapped down nice and tight, no play in it at all.
Anyway, down side to that was the first time I went to the track (1/4 mile) and the guys saw it, he said the way the box was tied down (with the strap) it wasn't in spec's for me to race because it needs to be bolted down with at least 3/4 inch bolts and on any car that you relocate the battery in needs to have an outside switch that cuts ALL power when switched off. He also told me that if you relocate the battery and are using a gel type battery, i.e. an Optima, you don't need to have it in a box.
Andrew
Active Member
Well thats good to know. I'll be sure to secure it with some heavy-duty bolts(like I would anyway). Thanks for the info.
Update 11/2:
Painted the engine bay with white Acrylic Laquer, so it's got a nice, semi-glossy finish. It turned out great!
And I also painted my valve cover with the same stuff:
(primered it, wet sand, then paint.)
It looks a little better in person. Maybe when it's on the motor, in the car will you be able to tell it looks so good.
Oh, and I have yet to grind off the lettering. I'll post up another pic once i do.
And I talked to KMS. They're hoping to have the motor done and ready to ship back to me late this coming week. I'm starting to get kindof irritated, but, I'll just be glad when it gets here so I can roll my rex out and roll the El Camino in and work on it's swap..
-Andrew
Update 11/2:
Painted the engine bay with white Acrylic Laquer, so it's got a nice, semi-glossy finish. It turned out great!
And I also painted my valve cover with the same stuff:
(primered it, wet sand, then paint.)
It looks a little better in person. Maybe when it's on the motor, in the car will you be able to tell it looks so good.
Oh, and I have yet to grind off the lettering. I'll post up another pic once i do.
And I talked to KMS. They're hoping to have the motor done and ready to ship back to me late this coming week. I'm starting to get kindof irritated, but, I'll just be glad when it gets here so I can roll my rex out and roll the El Camino in and work on it's swap..
-Andrew
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