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Greddy turbo install on a 2002 RSX-S TONS of pics

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by Ironraven, Sep 10, 2007.

  1. Ironraven

    Ironraven New Member

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    Well, I figure I'll probably be asking some tech questions and such about other engine builds over the next few months as I'm getting ready for a new project so I decided to post up my install guide for when I boosted my 2002 RSX-S. Hope this is helpful to anyone who is installing their own turbo...

    Comprehensive Greddy Turbo install guide.

    First, remove the front strut bar
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    Now remove the intake manifold cover

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    And release the fuel pressure by first removing the gas cap and then loosening the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail

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    Next I removed my DC shorty header and the heat shield. These are the bolts that need to be removed in order to get the header loose from the cat.

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    I couldn’t get good pics of the heatshield bolts so use your imagination

    Now remove the header

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    Now that you have room to roam, it’s heatwrapping time. This is probably the most frustrating and annoying part. Take my advice and don’t cut any of your zip ties until you are all done with the install. This will help to avoid cutting the crap out of your hands on the sharp edges. Wrap everything in sight. Don’t kill anyone.

    Take off the wires plugging into the VTC solenoid

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    Now remove the VTC solenoid and its heat shield and pull back the rubber cover on the oil pressure sensor

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    Reinstall the taps and the elbow for the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure gauge and the oil feed line.

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    Then reinstall the oil pressure sensor, and install the oil feed line and the oil pressure gauge fitting.

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    You may notice that this all doesn’t fit very well… and it’s also recommended to only have 1 t-fitting on the block since all that weight can cause it to break off, and we don’t want that. I decided to get some high-pressure hose with premade fittings and extend it. Sorry, these are bad pics… I’ll try to take better ones later.

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    Next, install the stud bolts in the engine block and on the header, then install the header using your OEM gasket.

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    Heatwrap the turbo actuator, check all fittings and install your turbo and compressor, make sure you remember the gasket. Notice that the oil feed line comes up from the back in this pic. Do this if you are routing your oil feed line from the engine block, otherwise I’d recommend putting it on later.

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    Fasten the oil feed line to avoid getting any dust or debris in the turbo, if you need to move it later it’s easy.

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    Heatwrap your oil feed return line and install it with the provided gasket. I used an 8†extension to do this, you’ll definitely need a long one, at least a 6â€. Install the banjo bolt or the bung if you tapped your pan. Then hook up the oil return bracket to keep the hose from hitting the axle. Modify the driveshaft heat shield if you plan on re-installing it.

    Now you need to install the downpipe. I installed an EGT gauge so I drilled the DP and then had the bung welded to it.
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    Make sure to run a tap through the bung after to make sure it didn’t warp from the heat.

    Now install the three stud bolts, gasket and then the downpipe. If you put the EGT sensor in the same spot I did, this can be installed after.

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    Ok… more removal of stock parts. I don’t have shots of taking off the bumper or removing the front bumper support, so you’re on your own. After that, it’s time to take off the washer bottle. Remove the bolts holding it to the frame and drain that bish. Those things just pop right out of there with a little force applied with a screwdriver. Make sure you have something in place to drain it into.

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    There’s a piece of the frame that needs to be removed.
    Before:
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    After:
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    The horns also need to be removed. Then re-install the horns with the FMIC mounts and spacers in place
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    Next install the FMIC itself, taking care to align it properly
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    It’s a tight squeeze… but it’s not that bad (just wait, it gets worse) but it will fit, I promise. Install the compression pipe on the compressor and then the next one after that. Don’t worry about fastening anything down to the engine block yet, it’s easier to do it later.

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    I had to remove the stock battery grounding in order to properly route the hose. You can see in this pic that it’s in the way.

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    Now install the next piece of the compressor pipe, it’s easiest if you keep the screw heads pointed towards a place you can easily access them for tightening.

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    Test fit and install the compressor pipe to the intercooler

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    Now the real fun begins. Install the large pipe that runs across the front of the Intercooler. Rotate the clamp on the radiator hose so it moves it up slightly as per the Greddy install instructions and cram the charge pipe in there. It’s a helluva tight fit, but it will go if you have moved the radiator hose enough. Make sure the connections are tightened down very well, as you don’t want to try and tighten those hose clamps after it’s installed.

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    Then remove the battery and the tray; trust me, it makes everything so much easier that it’s well worth the effort. You will also have to remove the clips holding the wires coming from the positive battery cable and bend that bracket out of the way.

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    Next gently feed the final compressor pipe through the maze of wires, tubes and pipes. Take your time and check from the top and bottom to ensure you have it aligned properly.

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    Tighten the clamps down tight and ensure that all pipes are properly and fully inserted into the hose connectors. Remember, if these aren’t tightened properly you won’t get any boost.

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    Finally, once everything is tightened down properly bolt the piping down to the appropriate brackets. Spacers may be needed as the fitament varies depending on the car.

    The next step is installing the suction pipe. Assemble the air filter and attach it to the suction pipe. Install the grommet for the IAT sensor. Feed the suction pipe through the forest of crap and fit it on to the compressor. Don’t tighten it down yet though, you’ll need it to be loose for the next step.

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    Now you need to fasten the intake to the bracket to keep it stable. Here’s a shot of the place on the tranny where it bolts down and of the bracket installed. You might as well install the bracket for the washer bottle at the same time (3rd pic).

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    You can see the other washer bottle bracket in that pic too, but here’s a closeup just for kicks.

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  2. Ironraven

    Ironraven New Member

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    And another shot of the other bracket.

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    Remove the injector wire cover from the fuel rail and snap it apart.

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    Remove the injector clips, then unbolt the fuel rail and pull it off the stock injectors. Then remove the stock injectors.

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    Cut the old injector clips, but make sure to leave tails on them in case you want to re-install them at a later date. Strip the wires, and solder on the new injector clips, making sure to put the shrink tubing on before you solder the connections.

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    Install the new fuel rail studs and spacers. Install the new injectors on the fuel rail, then insert the injectors into the intake manifold and tighten them down, making sure that the injector contacts are facing the engine. Then re-fasten the injector wire cover over the injector wires.

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    Tap the turbo actuator hose into the master vacuum hose. Connect the blow-by hose, the IAT sensor and the air control assist hose to the Intake. Tap the boost gauge and BOV lines too while you’re at it.

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    Get ready to hack your bumper. I used a Dremel… First line up the bumper and figure out where you want to cut it. Be patient otherwise you’ll end up hacking the crap out of it like I did.
    Before:
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    After:
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    Mounted:
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    Final touches; installing the gauges. First pop off the old A-pillar.
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    Next, feed the lines for your gauges into the dash
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    Now pull the lines through as you pull the gauge pillar towards the a-pillar. You will want to put double sided tape on it if that’s how you are going to fasten it first.
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    I chose to wrap my lines to avoid clutter… it’s up to you to decide how to do yours.
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    Feed the lines under the dash
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    Then zip tie them out of the way.
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    On the engine bay side, feed a coathanger through the rubber grommet on the passenger side.
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    And here it comes through the firewall.
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    Tape your lines on and carefully pull through the firewall. If you have manual gauges, this is where you will most likely kink the lines, so be careful.
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    Here’s my oil pressure line all connected and heatwrapped.
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    Here’s the connection for my boost gauge.
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    And this shows the line for my EGT gauge.
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    After tuning, re-install any stock parts that you still haven’t installed (like the strut bar or whatever). I’d recommend waiting until after tuning just in case you need to take turbo parts off.
     
  3. Ic3

    Ic3 Newb Engine Swapper

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    Holy crap man!

    This has to be one of the best write ups I have seen. Good job man! Im sure this will help 100's to come! Thanks for the post!

    Ic3
     
  4. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    hows the car run?? any vids
     
  5. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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  6. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    Very cool post
    Thanks for sharing
     
  7. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    great writeup!!1

    what a clusterfuck though.

    should use METAL ties and not plastic ones.
     
  8. Ironraven

    Ironraven New Member

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    I used lots of zip ties didn't I lol... they are heat-resistant plastic ones and I never had a problem with them melting or coming loose. I wasn't sure what needed to be wrapped so chose to err on the side of caution.

    The car ran great (I sold it a couple months ago) and with the stock cat and 440cc injectors I still put down 235whp 197wtq on a dynodynamics dyno. Sadly the only vids my digicam takes are craptacular so I never bothered doing anything with video, here's some pics of her at her finest though:

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    Thanks for the compliments guys :cool:
     
  9. Ic3

    Ic3 Newb Engine Swapper

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    Very nice!!!
    Just wondering how come only 235HP? Don't these come stock with around 220?
    Great write up tho great pictures!!

    Ic3
     
  10. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    220 at the crank.... 235 at the wheels translates up to about 285 at the crank.
     
  11. Ironraven

    Ironraven New Member

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    Yup... Stock WHP is about 175 for a Type-S give or take.
     
  12. Cashizslick

    Cashizslick !i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!

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    Why can't all junior members have one of their first five topics look like this?
     
  13. Ironraven

    Ironraven New Member

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    That's just how I roll :ph34r: lol. Besides I want to make a good impression BEFORE inundating you all with stupid n00b questions :eek: heh heh.

    My next project is going to be to build a CRVTEC and squeeze it into this car:

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    I've got good resources on the swap as far as fitting it into the car, the subframe, and most of the fabbing I'll need to do but I've never built an engine before. So far this site has been GOLD though so I thought I'd give a little back to the tuning community :)
     
  14. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

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    Damn.. Should have kept it, looked like a sharp little car!

    And if you're going to honda swap a little car, snag a mini cooper (old one, not the new one)
     
  15. Ironraven

    Ironraven New Member

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    I would have kept the Acura if only I didn't have a baby, and actually would have kept it anyway if I didn't have 10k+ in medical bills to pay off from my wife having an emergency c-section. I loved my RSX, it was an awesome car.

    Lol, that IS a vintage Mini, it's just the Clubman Wagon body instead of the regular round nose mini. I'm using the Clubman because the nose is slightly longer making it easier to fit the radiator into the engine bay, and I want to use a wagon because it has a slightly longer wheelbase which is beneficial to handling with a Honda swap and because the extra room will make a big difference in how practical the car is to use as a daily driver.
     
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