GSR crank girdle on a B18a/b

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Im thinking about putting together an ls/vtec for a future project and i want to look at every aspect of putting together a good motor before i just jump right in and forget something. Now i know to put in arp rod bolts when doin the swap, and maybe even forged rods, but how beneficial would it be to adapt a GSR crank girdle onto an LS block? and if anyone has done it, how hard is it?
 
hmm my bad, when i put in crank girdle into the search engine it just gave me Lsvtec's article on how to build an lsvtec
 
No problem.


A crank girdle isn't completely necessary, I'm not using one on my B20. If you do get one, take it to a shop and get it align honed just to be safe.
 
If you're using stock rods, I'm guessing that you aren't going to be doing any serious building. If youre using OEM honda pistons, stock cams, etc., then you should have no problem without a girdle.
 
yeah, im planning a mild build, b18a bottom, stock b16 head, pr3 pistons, and totally rebuilding the bottom end, replacing every gasket, new bearings.... etc.

also, do u know how much machine shops usually charge just to hone a block?

and is balancing the rotating assembly a good idea also, i mean ive heard it being done for larger builds, but i didnt know if it would be neccessary? (and how much does that cost?)
 
Look to pay around $600+ to have the block honed & decked, align honed, and the crank polished & balanced. It is a VERY good idea to get the rotating assembly balanced. Remember, you get what you pay for. Don't take it to a local redneck machine shop, call Import Builders or Golden Eagle, or go to a good performance shop somewhere around you. If you're within driving distance from Dallas, go to Intercrew.

Intercrew is the bomb diggity.
 
allrighty, im just lookin to see what im getting into.

Id rather take my time to build it right than slap it together in a month and spin a bearing and ruin it.

so far ive calculated id have to spend about 2800 just for the motor, tranny and other misc parts for it, not counting a header, exhaust, intake, ecu, mounts, linkage wiring etc...

does that sound about right?
 
excluding my block or head, I've put around $8 grand into my build so far, and it isn't even together yet.
 
dayum!!!

but looking at your post with your new goodies, and your sig, im not goin ne where near that. Im just lookin to build a decently reliable lsvtec with mostly oem parts and throw it in a lightened up ef hatch, then work on the suspension, wheel and tire package and my driving. from there maybe ill make some home made itb's and upgrade the valvetrain and what not, but who knows.
 
I'm in so much debt it isn't even funny.

But once I get my block back from Intercrew and put everything together...watch out :thumbsup:
 
nice man, i love watchin other pple put together projects like that and seeing it perform, good luck on the build!

now do u think id have to upgrade the fuel pump for this swap if im running it in an EF hatch?
 
bore, hone, deck at my local machine shop 100 bucks, balance and micropolish crank 125. Not quite 600
 
Like I said, you get what you pay for.

If I went to my local machine shop, it'd be $12.50 per 'hole' to bore it, then $75 to balance and polish the crank.


If you want someone who's never worked on hondas before, and bores out V8's all day to do your work, go for it. I'm trusting Intercrew with my shit.
 
bore, hone any respectable shop can do

the crank was done by benson machine, one of the best in the business.
 
Originally posted by civicious+Nov 4 2004, 04:47 PM-->
If you want someone who's never worked on hondas before, and bores out V8's all day to do your work, go for it. I'm trusting Intercrew with my shit.
[post=412125]Quoted post[/post]​

To be fair, it's not Intercrew that's actually doing the machine work on your block. It just has to pass Phillip's eye before he gives it back to you. :)

97CTR
@Nov 4 2004, 07:00 PM
bore, hone any respectable shop can do

the crank was done by benson machine, one of the best in the business.
[post=412217]Quoted post[/post]​


I wouldn't trust any respectable shop to do the bore/hone on a block... most of them will still run the bore with some taper from top to bottom- enough to cause problems when things start to really heat up in the block.

Benson = :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
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