first you need a good place to do the swap, and the correct tools to handle some of the tasks you need to perform.
An engine hoist is a must, one that goes up quite a ways is going to be easier to work with when pulling the motor out.
step 1 disconnect battery
step 2 disconnect BOTH wires at the underhood fuse block (phillips screwdriver)
remove shift knob
disconnect engine wiring from vehicle, (plugs at shock tower pass side, plugs near clutch resivoir drv. side)
you must remove plugs from their brackets before unplugging them.
disconnect throttle cable from PEDAL, then remove from firewall, do not remove throttle cable from engine.
remove evap hose (top) from throttle body
Relieve fuel pressure by removing fuel cap, then remove banjo bolt (17mm) from fuel filter
remove fuel return line from fuel pressure regulator
drape wires, throttle cable and fuel line over engine so that they aren't flopping around during removal.
remove engine ground at front of engine (on valve cover)
remove power steering pump and power steering pressure line from engine)
remove clutch slave clyinder from transmission (2 bolts 12 mm) then 2 bolts 10 mm from bracket (DO NOT OPEN CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM)
Lay clutch slave cylinder off the engine
remove engine ground near slave cylinder bracket (10mm)
The next several steps you will be under or on the side of the vehicle, be cautious working under a vehicle at all times!
raise vehicle and support on jackstands
remove front wheels
remove both axle nuts (1 and 1/4 inch or 32mm)
remove cotter pins from lower ball joints, then remove nuts from lower ball joints
using a pickle fork or suitable ball joint sepatator, separate lower ball joints from lower arms.
using 17mm wrench and 17mm impact, remove nut and bolt that hold bottom of struts to lower arms.
remove driver's side axle using a hammer striking axle end where it meets intermediate shaft.
use a pry bar to remove pass side axle from transmission (tranny fluid may spill)
if you want to drain the tranny fluid prior to removing the axle, then there is a drain on the pass side, below where the axle goes in, it is a 3/8'' square, so you can use a ratchet to get it open.
remove 2 bolts where header meets catylitic converter
remove 2 blots holding shifter assembly to underside of vehicle (12mm) you may need to move exhaust around in order to get at these bolts, you may also have to remove heat shields to get at these bolts.
remove rear engine bracket to rear engine mount bolt (17mm)
Disconnect O2 sensor
drain coolant from engine via petcock pass side radiator
remove lower radiaor hose from radiator
remove 2 bolts each holding front left and front right engine damper mounts to vehicle (the bolts are vertical)
then remove the 2 nuts (17 or 19mm) that hold the dampers to the engine brackets (left and right) and then remove the studs in the brackets (14mm)
remove upper radiator hose
remove heater hoses
now you should have nothing attaching your engine to your vehicle except 2 mounts on on the pass side and one on the drivers side, check to make sure everything is disconnected because I might have forgotten something
secure engine to engine hoist and put weight of engine on the hoist, then remove 17mm bolt on drivers side and 17mm bolt on pass side that attach mounts to vehicle.
you may find it easier to remove the mounts completely form the engine and the tranny prior to hoisting engine out of vehicle, it is pretty straightforward how they come off.
no remove engine from vehicle by jacking engine up and ove radiator support and forward. Be careful of shift linkage as it is a little tricky to maneuver it the way you are going to want it to go.
