ok so my moms gonna have the cash for the swap in april so i wanna start reading more into the tech part of the swap as apose to the mechanical stuff such as the (swap itself and axles and all that) bascily once the engine is in the bay whats needed to wire and run it? and what are my different options for running it as far as ECU or VAFC or what not. what would be the preferd way, and whats the cheapst way. i neeed to try and get this thing in the car and running for about $2500 or less.
H22 into 4gen accord
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Welcome aboard the H22A train.
For automatic:Auto P13 ECU, H22A engine, provisions for Exhaust, H22A power steering hose, the right belt for your accessories.
H22A transmission is a way better choice.
For Manual: Man P13 ECU, engine, exhaust, PS hose, right belt, intermediate shaft.
The wiring is a pain, but not that bad. You don't NEED much to do the swap. However, timing belts, header, CAI, cams, Hondata, better brakes, H22A tranny, and many other things are a good idea.
Come back when you are close. I'll try to post pics in the next week of my swap(engine bay)
For automatic:Auto P13 ECU, H22A engine, provisions for Exhaust, H22A power steering hose, the right belt for your accessories.
H22A transmission is a way better choice.
For Manual: Man P13 ECU, engine, exhaust, PS hose, right belt, intermediate shaft.
The wiring is a pain, but not that bad. You don't NEED much to do the swap. However, timing belts, header, CAI, cams, Hondata, better brakes, H22A tranny, and many other things are a good idea.
Come back when you are close. I'll try to post pics in the next week of my swap(engine bay)
well i plan on geting a complerte swap from H motors or nippon and then junk yard it for any other stuff i need. whats going to need to be done to wire the ECU into the car? will we be able to just run the stock Vtec cross over on the ECU or do we have to have the VAFC to get the Vtec working?
also will the short ram intake off are F22 fit the H22? and will the plugs and wires from the F22 be any good for the h22 cause i think there fairly new. and will the down pipe for the exhaus we have now bolt up to the H22 manifold?
also will the short ram intake off are F22 fit the H22? and will the plugs and wires from the F22 be any good for the h22 cause i think there fairly new. and will the down pipe for the exhaus we have now bolt up to the H22 manifold?
Exhaust will not bolt up. You will need the upper and lower sections of the header. You will also need a O2 bung before the cat. Ebay has several cheap headers.
You will need to wire the IAB, Knock, and VTEC wires. These wires are inserted into the harness at the ECU. Your stock harness will fit perfectly in the new ECU. I suggest getting some pins from a scrapped car(from the harness@ the ECU.
The stock VTEC crossover will be fine.
The Ram air intake will work. The intake boot might be a little tight, but that's ok.
I think the plugs and wires will work, but it has been dyno proven and widely discussed that the stock shit works as well or better on Honda's. This includes the use of most bolt ons.
Several people have been trying to switch OBD lately. Skip that bus. You want an OBD1 H22A. It is not cost or time efficient to switch back and forth when you have the choice.
You will use your stock harness and modify it to fit.
The fuel hose needs to be changed.
I had to use the AC pump bracket from the Accord engine. I also needed to buy the proper belt to turn the accessories.
I used the Accord EGR, it fits perfect.
Keep the waterneck from your accord, and mount it. The H22A only has one temperature switch for two fans. This is an easy way to add the second switch.
You will have more chances to ask questions as needed.
Accord/Prelude swap gallery
Another place, H22A.org
You will need to wire the IAB, Knock, and VTEC wires. These wires are inserted into the harness at the ECU. Your stock harness will fit perfectly in the new ECU. I suggest getting some pins from a scrapped car(from the harness@ the ECU.
The stock VTEC crossover will be fine.
The Ram air intake will work. The intake boot might be a little tight, but that's ok.
I think the plugs and wires will work, but it has been dyno proven and widely discussed that the stock shit works as well or better on Honda's. This includes the use of most bolt ons.
Several people have been trying to switch OBD lately. Skip that bus. You want an OBD1 H22A. It is not cost or time efficient to switch back and forth when you have the choice.
You will use your stock harness and modify it to fit.
The fuel hose needs to be changed.
I had to use the AC pump bracket from the Accord engine. I also needed to buy the proper belt to turn the accessories.
I used the Accord EGR, it fits perfect.
Keep the waterneck from your accord, and mount it. The H22A only has one temperature switch for two fans. This is an easy way to add the second switch.
You will have more chances to ask questions as needed.
Accord/Prelude swap gallery
Another place, H22A.org
whats "IAB" stand for? and just FYI nippon motors is in CALI along with Hmotorsonline so i intend on going out there and looking at the motor we buy and pick it up are selfs, just thought thats kinda cool since most people dont get the chance since there all over the state. If any one wants i can take pictures if its anything worth looking at. and what do you mean about wiring the second switch, switch for what?
sleepn_accord
Senior Member
The 4th gen h22 swap is probably the easiest swap to do.
1) Is you car automatic or 5 spd?
2) Is it a dx/lx or ex/se?
If it's an automatic you can get automatic h22's (which are just as fast as the 5 spd, if not a tad bit quicker...just don't expect much after 115-120 due to the gearing).
If it's an ex/se trim line, you only have to wire up your knock sensor, vtec pressure switch, vtec solenoid and vtec groun.
Use your accord motor's wire harness and add in the extra wires.
If you have an ex/se an added bonus is that you can get a DC header for the h22 and it will bolt right up to your stock exhaust system!
If it's a dx/lx you'll have to get some welding done (and add in the IAB or just run a vaccum line from the IAB diaphram to the intake manifold..wait until you get the motor, you'll see what we're talking about).
Use you accord mounts, a/c compressor & bracket.
Either get a prelude power steering pressure line or use you accord p/s pump (you'll be short one bolt..but oh well).
It's super easy to do.
You don't need any fancy gadgets like VAFC etc for the stock H22.
Use the p13 ecu (and if you get an automatic, I've found the best TCU is a USDM h23 TCU).
Once it's in it should feel like stock with a sh!tload more torque and HP.
1) Is you car automatic or 5 spd?
2) Is it a dx/lx or ex/se?
If it's an automatic you can get automatic h22's (which are just as fast as the 5 spd, if not a tad bit quicker...just don't expect much after 115-120 due to the gearing).
If it's an ex/se trim line, you only have to wire up your knock sensor, vtec pressure switch, vtec solenoid and vtec groun.
Use your accord motor's wire harness and add in the extra wires.
If you have an ex/se an added bonus is that you can get a DC header for the h22 and it will bolt right up to your stock exhaust system!
If it's a dx/lx you'll have to get some welding done (and add in the IAB or just run a vaccum line from the IAB diaphram to the intake manifold..wait until you get the motor, you'll see what we're talking about).
Use you accord mounts, a/c compressor & bracket.
Either get a prelude power steering pressure line or use you accord p/s pump (you'll be short one bolt..but oh well).
It's super easy to do.
You don't need any fancy gadgets like VAFC etc for the stock H22.
Use the p13 ecu (and if you get an automatic, I've found the best TCU is a USDM h23 TCU).
Once it's in it should feel like stock with a sh!tload more torque and HP.
Its a 91 5 speed 2 door though were not sure on the trim? its got power everything but no sun roof, leather and has drum in the back if that helps any. Im just not sure on what model, is there some where i can look on the car to be sure? im just trying to understand as much about the hard part of this swap as i can now, shes gonna have the money in about two months. her moms giving her 5k for her birthday and the car needs another motor so shes gonna let me do the swap BUT its got appear as simple and down right easy as possible cause my moms BF will be involved and hes down with it BUT if it start geting draged out to more the 2800$ -2900$ it aint gonna happen and my limit with ehr is 2500$ but im sure i can squeez a lil more along with my own cash if need be. and also the wiring has to seem very strait forward if it seems ify hes gonna get scared, hes smart in the way of not going farther then hes sure he can fix something so like i siad key words are STRAIt FORWARD for the wiring, as much like stock accept for the power is the goal.
also when this gos down if theres any one whos willing to put in some work with me on this swap im in CA in san bernardino it would be great if i could get some non swap virgins over here i have some firends but they either got the swap done or got there cars with the motor in it so..... and i mean there not stupid i just would feel better if i could get some of the foos from cali to come over kick back a few beers and tacle the swap with me maybe over a 2 week basis. 2 week ends or something and i can to the rest during the weeks, cause see the car cant really be down more then 2 weeks if it haaaaaaaaas to be so be it but the goal is at least to weeks to a complete running daily driver.
also when this gos down if theres any one whos willing to put in some work with me on this swap im in CA in san bernardino it would be great if i could get some non swap virgins over here i have some firends but they either got the swap done or got there cars with the motor in it so..... and i mean there not stupid i just would feel better if i could get some of the foos from cali to come over kick back a few beers and tacle the swap with me maybe over a 2 week basis. 2 week ends or something and i can to the rest during the weeks, cause see the car cant really be down more then 2 weeks if it haaaaaaaaas to be so be it but the goal is at least to weeks to a complete running daily driver.
The hardest part of the wiring is figuring out which slot each wire goes to on the ECU harness. If you can do this, and identify the parts on the engine, then the wiring is not bad.
I have wiring diagrams that can help a lot.
Knock sensor= Above the Oil Filter
Oil Pressure= Below the Oil Filter
IAB= Intake Air Bypass, drivers side of intake
VTEC solenoid= Next to the distributor
The most important part of the wiring is to make perfect solid connections. If something does not work, you will know it is wired wrong, and not second guess the connection.
I soldered every connection, and wrapped the wires in the stock style black harness wrap. The connections at the ECU are so much simpler if you have the pins. Bare wires ball up, pull out, etc. I used the "just shove it in" method at first. After repeated Knock Sensor codes, I replaced the whole chunk of wire, soldered, and used real pins for all connections. Well worth the small amount of extra work.
Keep in mind, that you can finish the swap without the extra wires. The car will run and drive. Your timing will be retarded, and VTEC won't work, but the car will move. I only tell you this just in case Mom's BF gets frustrated and walks.
Where do you live?
I have wiring diagrams that can help a lot.
Knock sensor= Above the Oil Filter
Oil Pressure= Below the Oil Filter
IAB= Intake Air Bypass, drivers side of intake
VTEC solenoid= Next to the distributor
The most important part of the wiring is to make perfect solid connections. If something does not work, you will know it is wired wrong, and not second guess the connection.
I soldered every connection, and wrapped the wires in the stock style black harness wrap. The connections at the ECU are so much simpler if you have the pins. Bare wires ball up, pull out, etc. I used the "just shove it in" method at first. After repeated Knock Sensor codes, I replaced the whole chunk of wire, soldered, and used real pins for all connections. Well worth the small amount of extra work.
Keep in mind, that you can finish the swap without the extra wires. The car will run and drive. Your timing will be retarded, and VTEC won't work, but the car will move. I only tell you this just in case Mom's BF gets frustrated and walks.
Where do you live?
san bernrdino california. also to any one who might want to help i got all the tools we would need sep no air tool though i might be able to get my hands on some for the swap though im not 100% sure. I just really need fools that ahve been around honds basicly were good but were swap virgins.
sleepn_accord
Senior Member
Air tools are helpful.
It sounds like you have an LX. So you will have to wire up the IAB. No problem.
Maybe I can get some pictures up this weekend.
With 2 people you should be able to do it.
You're probably going to end up spending about 2800 (after buying new timing belt, tensioner etc.). REPLACE THE TIMING BELT WHILE THE ENGINE IS OUT.
I tried doing a timing belt on a 4th gen h22 (while the motor was in the car...) and it won't happen unless you're the world's skinniest man..
It sounds like you have an LX. So you will have to wire up the IAB. No problem.
Maybe I can get some pictures up this weekend.
With 2 people you should be able to do it.
You're probably going to end up spending about 2800 (after buying new timing belt, tensioner etc.). REPLACE THE TIMING BELT WHILE THE ENGINE IS OUT.
I tried doing a timing belt on a 4th gen h22 (while the motor was in the car...) and it won't happen unless you're the world's skinniest man..
ok if the car is not an ex/se but has had an aftermarket exhaust along with dc header put on the accord motor will it bolt up to the h22 manifold?
This is "THE ACCORD" the h22 will be going into.
This is "THE ACCORD" the h22 will be going into.
H22AdelSol
Senior Member
the only way your gonna have that swap running for that cheap is if you are a l337 h22a swap master and know EXACTLY what needs to be done. You need to know what EGR is+ what parts you need and IAB + what parts are involved, Resistor box, axles. If i did it all over again i could have it done for over $3k
sleepn_accord
Senior Member
what does a resistor box have to do with the swap? <_<
