H22 into honda accord

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S

saleem837

Junior Member
I made the right decision, i got a jdm h22 I have a couple quick questions though:

1) Is there something really important i need to know about the auto tensioner?

2) I know someone else asked this question, but i have a 1990 accord and they had a 5th generation i believe: will my h22 fit exactly into my existing engine mounts or do i need to add one extra prelude mount?

3) Does the vtech wiring article on this website apply to my swap?

Thanks
 
1. You need a special tool to hold the tensioner compacted, and how to do it. There is a plug on the "bottom" of the tensioner as you look at it installed. The tensioner holds about 1/4 oz of oil. If the plug is removed while installed the oil is lost. The tensioner is removed, placed upside down in a vise, and a screwdriver is used through the plug hole to compact the tensioner. While held by the screwdriver, you slide the "special tool" over the entire tensioner, holding it compact. The tensioner holding tool is C shaped, and runs about 25 dollars on Ebay.

2. It will fit nicely. In my opinion, an H22 mount up seems to go smoother than an F22 mount up. The accessories and extras are the hassle. Don't switch pins A6 and A11, and you don't have to "shave" any mounts.

3. Yes. I have my own write up to do, but the one on this site definitely applies. Please do a search, as this has been gone over a million times.


Thank you for starting a new thread, drive through.
 
Thanks for the tips, Tab!

One other question i forgot to ask, should i be using honda accord headers on this engine or prelude headers?
 
You'll need to use a Prelude header. The Accord header has the wrong bolt pattern.

tab will have to confirm this part (since I had a 5th gen and not a 4th gen), but I believe you'll need some custom fab'ing to get the b-pipe of the header to mount up to the rest of the exhaust stream.
 
Originally posted by dohcvtec_accord@Apr 15 2005, 09:55 AM
You'll need to use a Prelude header. The Accord header has the wrong bolt pattern.

tab will have to confirm this part (since I had a 5th gen and not a 4th gen), but I believe you'll need some custom fab'ing to get the b-pipe of the header to mount up to the rest of the exhaust stream.
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nah, 4th gen is the shiz.

The aftermarket Ebay header that I bought bolted right up to my cat. Then I bought a catback. Doing this, you have Prelude header, stock cat, Accord catback. All bolt up, and the downpipe already has the O2 bung in it.
 
Ok, i got my old accord engine out of my car. Now, im going to start bolting in the H22. Sorry, this is kind of a noob question, but besides the vtech, what other wire systems do i need to learn how to wire?
 
VTEC, knock sensor, IAB, wire the VTEC pressure sensor to the old oil pressure sensor wire, and lengthening of some original wires.

It's very simple, but also overthought ten times a week.

Good luck.
 
To fix the autotensioner you need the following parts

13404-PT0-004 - Balancer Belt Adjuster
14510-PT0-004 - Timing Belt Adjuster
14516-PT2-000 - Adjuster Spring
90014-P14-A00 - Adjuster Base Bolt
90015-PT0-000 - Adjuster Spring Bolt
90016-PT0-000 - Adjuster Bolt
90140-P14-A00 - 11mm Washer
14521-P14-A00 - Adjuster Plate

Id show you what it looks like put together, but it violates copyright laws and blah blah. But all those numbers are the part numbers if you go to a honda dealer. itll run you about 140 bucks total to fix
 
Originally posted by reikoshea@May 3 2005, 12:06 AM
To fix the autotensioner you need the following parts

13404-PT0-004 - Balancer Belt Adjuster
14510-PT0-004 - Timing Belt Adjuster
14516-PT2-000 - Adjuster Spring
90014-P14-A00 - Adjuster Base Bolt
90015-PT0-000 - Adjuster Spring Bolt
90016-PT0-000 - Adjuster Bolt
90140-P14-A00 - 11mm Washer
14521-P14-A00 - Adjuster Plate

Id show you what it looks like put together, but it violates copyright laws and blah blah. But all those numbers are the part numbers if you go to a honda dealer. itll run you about 140 bucks total to fix
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Although I'm sure he's correct, I've never had a problem with mine. You have to unbolt it from the block and turn it upside down in the vise. You then remove the oil plug and turn the adjusting screw with a screwdriver to compact the tensioner. Once compact, you slide a special tool over the works to keep it compact. You then bolt it back up to the block, put your belts on, and remove the holding tool. Snap, done. If yours is not working, or you are a worry wort, look above. Do not attempt to adjust the adjuster while installed, it will not work.
 
Thanks guys, i ve successfully completed that, switched the belts etc. However, i think imight have a major problem.

I was trying to take off my power steering pully near the bottom of the motor, before i did the auto tensioner and the belts. Anyways, what happened was that I looked at a diagram of my old honda engine, which seemed kind of similar, and my friend used a screw driver to try and lock into the crankshaft from behind a bolt in the back of the motor. My friend did this even though i got pissed off at him and told him not to - too late to point fingers though.

The tip of the screw driver broke off inside the motor. Its low and not inside the heads, so im hoping it will come out when i change the oilpan gasket, but im not sure and im super worried about it. Could something like that mess up the motor, and if so, what can i do about this before i do some major damage. TAB, PLZ HELP lol.
 
well if it doesnt id recommend taking off the oil pan too.

Motors are really wierd things, and even though the tip of that screwdriver is more dense than the oil (meaning it will sink) id be willing to bet one day your gonna hit a bump and the oil pump will pick that thing right up...so prolly just a good bet to take the oil pan out and see if you can see it.

(That comment was based off of the Chevy 502 i was helping a friend with last night. I havent actually seen how the H22 is setup, so that information might just be if you did something like that in a big block.)
 
LMAO. I'm sorry dude. I've been flamed for less. Can you please tell me how your friend might have broken off the end of a screwdriver inside your motor? Are you talking about the hole that enters the rear of your engine to lock in the countershaft? That's what I have pictured in my head, and still I can't imagine how to shear off a SD tip in that sum bitch! :bo:

Sorry mang. :bo:
 
I Got IT OUT! It was the rear access hole to the balance shaft. He's a bit of a moron, i told him it was the wrong hole! Some people said it would be okay to just go ahead and start the motor with it in there because a filter would prevent it from entering the heads. So, i went and talked to this honda technician, and he told me it ABSOLUTELY had to come out. Anyways, i went back and took off the oil pan hoping it would have fallen, and then i looked back inside the access hole and i could just barely see that it was still stuck. I tried a strong magnet, and about everything else to get it lose. Finally, i just knocked the sumbitch out and it fell out through the bottom :D

Let's just call it a learning experience, one that im embarrassed of <_<
 
congrats dude. me and my buddy were pretty worried (strange since we dont know you) cause that could blown you engine to hell.
 
Im having a problem with the driftshaft (axles). They dont fit; i know they re alligned right too. They say AT on them (but i have a manual transmission). Im hoping that doesnt mean they re for automatics. I grabbed them from the engine importers when i grabbed my h22. Is it also possible that I could use my accord axles?
 
Originally posted by saleem837@May 8 2005, 03:55 PM
I Got IT OUT! It was the rear access hole ......... He's a bit of a moron, i told him it was the wrong hole! Some people said it would be okay........So, i went and talked to this...technician, and he told me it ABSOLUTELY had to come out. Anyways, i went back .............. hoping it would have fallen, and then i looked back inside the ....hole and i could just barely see that it was still stuck. I tried a strong magnet, and about everything else to get it lose. Finally, i just knocked the sumbitch out and it fell out through the bottom :D

Let's just call it a learning experience, one that im embarrassed of <_<
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Does anyone else find this amusing? I love playing with other peoples words out of context. :bo: :bo: :bo:

I am officially the asshole of this thread, drive through.
 
lmao, you are the master manipulator. I never thought i could be taken so out of context :p

Im having a total compatability issue with my axles??? the passenger side works, but the drivers side doesnt fit (The drivers side is marked with "AT"; i drive a manual transmission). I tried my old accord axles, but the teeth stick out from the transmission and place into the axle, whereas the accord axle have teeth themselves that lock into the transmission - incompatabile. What should i do?
 
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