H22 Powered EG

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MXDesa

Senior Member
Hey guys, tonight i just came from a buddies house where a few EG Hatches got together as usual for a night to chill. Anyway, a friend of mine just dropped in a H22. It sounds great and idles well too. He says for the speed he drives on the freeway (55-65 mph), the handling is perfectly fine and could probably handle more speed. One of the reasons i didn't want to get an H22 was the handling issue (among other minor reasons) but when he showed me his dyno sheets, i was so amazed with the power that motor makes with such little modifications. For all of you guys experieced with B and H series motors, what are the pros and cons of the H22, B16, and B18C1 (H22 especially) I am really leaning towards getting an H22 but i would like to know the opinion of Hondaswap members. Thankyou guys! (This is going into a 1992 Hatch and my goals are high 11 to mid 12 second runs with Forced Induction )
 
From what i can gather, the pros and cons goes as flows..

H22A
Pros
1. TORQUE
2. 2.2 Litres
3. Little mods to make more power

Cons
1. The position of the motor
2. Snapping axles due to the position of the motor
3. Hard to find and expensive aftermarket parts
4. Handling (unless you go in straight lines a lot).. changes the characteristic of the car dramatically.. people opt to go c.f. hood and fenders and relocate battery to trunk.
5. 60lbs heavier than a B-series (if you care)
6. Expensive to mod if you go further than basics i/h/e.. such as the need to resleeve and paper thin walls

B16
Pros
1. Basically a smaller version of the B18C5
2. Parts interchangable with Type-Rs such intake manny
3. High revving motor (if you care)
4. A high aftermarket following
5. Parts everywhere and easier to find the swap itself

Cons
1. Torqueless
2. Small displacement (if you care)

B18C1
Pros
1. Very diverse platform
2. Great for boost or all motor
3. High aftermarket following
4. Parts are everywhere

Cons
1. Dual stage intake sucks..
2. Almost close to none, except swap prices are sorrowing constantly.

Well hopes that helps.. im to thinking hard of what swap i want to get when i get an eg (hopefully by this week).. im leaning towards a b18c1.. if i misinformed, please feel free to correct.. thanks

ae
 
All the motors are great. Any motor can be made to run good times and it really depends on how much money you have and want to spend. Most of the people on this site recommend a GSR motor since it is a great starting point for really any direction you want to go. You can run 11's with a b16, H22, or B18c. All motors can be built to run good. I still say go with the GSR motor since it produces the best of all averages.


Milan
 
But doesn't the H22 only throw off handling if you're trying to autox???
As far as changing lanes and making turns and stuff, I've heard it's not noticable.
Maybe I heard wrong, I dunno.
 
Originally posted by khrisb@Aug 6 2003, 09:17 PM
But doesn't the H22 only throw off handling if you're trying to autox???
As far as changing lanes and making turns and stuff, I've heard it's not noticable.
Maybe I heard wrong, I dunno.
Click to expand...

I have heard the same thing. Also many well made mounts will pretty much eliminate the handling issues with the process of upgrading the springs factored into the whole thing. I think honda's big block has the most potential out of all the motors, but thats just my opinion. Feel free to state your opinion. All feedback is welcome
 
I did a H22 swap on a 98 coupe for a customer and, well I was impresed.. not much impresses me anymore but we did this did!
H22A ( JDM of course)
Tein coil overs
OZ suprailegra 17's Perlli P7000
DC Header
AEM short ram
Skunk2 stage 1 CAMS
and a very basic cat back
The car later dynoed at 194 to the wheels and 155fdtlbs with very little effort put into mods. With stiffing up the shocks 2 steps and lifting the frt a 1/4 inch you couldn't tell it got a weight gain, lane changes and cornering kicked butt. Most cars rarely ever race on the track and a true street build up like this as far as im consered kicks ass. Sure you may only run high 13's or low 14's. If you need better through a wet 100 shot of NOS at it and watch it fly. It may be heavier but it sound like you want to go fast easy. Lots of preludes can push 300+HP with out internails

steve
 
Originally posted by Mr.Steve@Aug 6 2003, 09:29 PM
I did a H22 swap on a 98 coupe for a customer and, well I was impresed.. not much impresses me anymore but we did this did!
H22A ( JDM of course)
Tein coil overs
OZ suprailegra 17's Perlli P7000
DC Header
AEM short ram
Skunk2 stage 1 CAMS
and a very basic cat back
The car later dynoed at 194 to the wheels and 155fdtlbs with very little effort put into mods. With stiffing up the shocks 2 steps and lifting the frt a 1/4 inch you couldn't tell it got a weight gain, lane changes and cornering kicked butt. Most cars rarely ever race on the track and a true street build up like this as far as im consered kicks ass. Sure you may only run high 13's or low 14's. If you need better through a wet 100 shot of NOS at it and watch it fly. It may be heavier but it sound like you want to go fast easy. Lots of preludes can push 300+HP with out internails

steve
Click to expand...

Thats why im leaning towards this swap so bad but i wanted to make sure what u guys thought. Im just a littel fuzzy right now on what wiring problems im going to run into.
 
Im also going to be doing an auto to manual swap along with this engine swap. What clutch hydro lines can i use??? Stock civic ones or prelude lines? THanks
 
Originally posted by MXDesa@Aug 7 2003, 03:30 AM
Im also going to be doing an auto to manual swap along with this engine swap. What clutch hydro lines can i use??? Stock civic ones or prelude lines? THanks
Click to expand...

This will be a litle more work the passager side frame rail is not the same on a manual eg as a automatic eg. The tranny mount sits about 2 inches higher than the manual chassis does, so you must make a extension for the mount or get a body man to make and weld in a frame mount. the lines and fittings all eg civic parts execpt for the slave clyinder at the tranny.
 
I have a 95 Coupe DX with an H22, I have stock suspension and brakes with the exception of coilovers, my car runs fine, I can easily do 170 and still had room to go, I am running a GSR obd1 comp. chipped for the time being, my P28 is currently getting worked on with Hondata S200 system. I have the EGR blocked off, Integra axles, MSD 6al, Blaster HVC Coil, MSD Wires, Iridium plugs, Clutchmasters Stage 3 clutch, Clutchmasters flywheel, HP Racing headers, high flow cat, 2.5" exhaust, OBX type R muffler, Skunk 2 Cam Gears on 14" steelies with Falken Azenis, as you can tell from above, speed is not an issue, as my car sitis w/o Hondata, Im running mid to high 13's, I can still play around on the corners and have fun in turns, you can barely even tell a difference and to the inexperienced driver, they probably couldnt tell until of course they mashed on the gas and almost sh*t on themselves, GO FOR IT MAN, youll thank me later
 
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