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H22 swap...88 EF details

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Nissanguy, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    This has been a fun project. I am working out of my garage and a buddy is paying me to do this. Slowly but surely. I am about 50% completion as I am posting these pics.

    before
    [​IMG]
    after
    [​IMG]

    I will upload more pictures and details in the next 30. got to go eat some wife's home cooking.
     
  2. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    niceee, h22's in ef's are fun, you loose turn radius though
     
  3. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    got this little turd out

    [​IMG]

    got these in the mail from swap shop racing.
    [​IMG]
    not to bad, around 750 shipped, just got the CV axles as well(which are included in the price)

    motors mounts:

    This one was easy
    [​IMG]
    this one was hard as shit to get the rear bolt at, had to really adapt some sockets
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    that's what it looked like lol
    [​IMG] and the new one

    This one was fun, once I got the old trans mount off.


    [​IMG] prepping the surface
    [​IMG] old mount gone
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    and that's it for motor mounts, next was fitament
     
  4. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    oh, and watch your cutting wheel. don't be dumbass like me and end up spending time soldering wires back together!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    oh so tight
    [​IMG]
    not happening
    [​IMG] problem solved.. and its still a little tight
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    its in, but I don't forsee a hydro to cable conversion or a downpipe going anywhere with that factory crossmember. alternator isn't going to fit either:
    [​IMG]
    next section I will show you some of the hacking it takes.
     
  5. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    that's gay, I didn't know that. oh well not my car :shrug2:
     
  6. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    I might catch some flack for how I am doing this crossmember, some may have better methods. I am open to any reinforcement suggestions on the downpipe clearance, the hydro converter I think is stronger than before as I used 1/4 plate steel on both.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    intial rough cut piece
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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  8. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    I need some help guys... got a fitament problem. car is of course slammed to the ground and radius arm is smashing the crank pulley. any advice would be greatly appriciated.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    one pics is it lifted off the ground. I am going to try to raise the suspension, but my customer is all gangster about the lowering so...
    also the car is not firing up for some reason.... no spark going to be runnig a obd test on it here real soon, someone has goofed with the wiring before oh and I thought this turned out nicley...
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    heres it with the weight off:
    [​IMG]
     
  10. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Replace with aftermarket front crossmember or turn radius arm into an L shape?
     
  11. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    Wow thats a lot of work to shoehorn that thing in there!
     
  12. m90polk

    m90polk Member

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    Aftermarket front crossmember would help with a lot of things .......and if it didnt say CIVIC on the front windshield i would have never guessed what it really was .....overall cool progress though
     
  13. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    I considered the option of bending the radius arm, but was strongly advised by swap shop not to screw with that since it has such a important role in the EF series' suspension, which makes sense.
    will an aftermakret crossmember lower the mounting point of the radius arm? how much are we talking price wise?
    Swap shop mentioned a balance shaft delete with an aftermarket pulley... which is 300$ plus I have to pull this piece of shit motor back up to install it..... which also happens to be a real bitch, especially since it is mechanically ready to roll down the road. I really dont want to deal with the rear motor mount again. I would consider maybe cutting a hole through the unibody.. and ofcourse reinforcing it afterwords to access the pulley, but that would also be some serious time involved.
    I raised the suspension about an inch and a half since it has adjustable coilovers, but I am still concerned it would hit during a hard turn or speed bump, railroad, ect.
    if a front crossmember would drop it down 2 inchs then that would be ideal. any other sujestions?


    Oh and please remember not my car, so I don't advertise for honda CIVICs, lol.

    -wait until I post some pics of the nightmare, getto-bullshit under the dash, Im talking power and grounds tiwisted together next to eachother without ANY electrical tape, shrink rap, bare wires! I told this kid I am going to have to Uninstall ALL aftermarket pieces before I begin to think about diagnosing the no start issue.
     
  14. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    I just had an thought, Im going to check out when I get back to the shop. welding a new sleeve underneith the exsisting radius arms on the crossmember... hmmm. options options...
     
  15. Fernpatch

    Fernpatch Member

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    maybe a dumb question but what is becoming of the old motor and also is that an intercooler i see on what appears to be a non turbo engine?
     
  16. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    It's not necessarily lowering the mount point- the ED/EE/EF chassis cars really need to move the front pivot point OUTwards to clear the pulley. Remember to account for the entire stroke of the suspension. The radius arm basically completes the triangle of the lower "A" arm, so you don't want to delete it. If you move the front pivot outwards, you'll introduce some funny scrub behavior, but quite a few people just deal with it. If you're able to make a rigid enough bent rod that still keeps the stock mount points but clears the pulley, I think that would probably be best- but as far as I know, I haven't seen anyone do that. But I haven't exactly been looking.

    Cost, the aftermarket crossmembers are usually sold as traction bars since they delete the bushings and replace with solid ball joints, reducing wheel hop- and they typically run about $300 ish depending on where you buy them from. Most have an option to put another engine mount back in the front section to control engine movement more too. I don't know which ones will clear an H swap.
     
  17. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    this car blows, I spent all day yesterday trying to increase ride height. cheap shit aftermarket coilovers that are seized together made for a bad day. I put the suspension back together today and due that owns the car is going to have to get a crossmember. the key is that it lowers the front mounting point downwards.

    I also ran into a HUGE problem, so I am definatly not getting spark, but there has to be a quart of fuel in the crankcase. I poped the dipstick out to smell raw fuel this evening. I turned it over for a total of 30 seconds maybe?? how can that much fuel get passed the rings?? what the hell. I hate this car.
     
  18. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Did you rebuild the engine before putting it in or at least do a good health check on it before using it?
     
  19. Nissanguy

    Nissanguy New Member

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    Had 210 across the board, sounds like a beast while cranking
     
  20. ChustroRacing

    ChustroRacing New Member

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    Im trying to know if a h22a1 engine fits In a 1986 civic hb?

    Someone knows something?
     
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