h22 swap into accord

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U

Uppertorso

Senior Member
Hey guys, thanks for your help with the ecu questions i had earlier.

But i am still having a couple of problems with running wires to the ecu. :blink:

Here is what i am working on
1990 Accord (originally came with F22)
Installed a JDM H22a (which is OBD1)
Using a P13 ECU
I have some resources on pinout sheets but some of the information is confusing, i don't understand the shortened versions for descriptions. So any help is appreciated:


1-My connector coming from the VTEC oil pressure switch has a ground and signal wire coming from it, I know where to put the VTEC signal but where does the ground wire go??? ECU? or just to ground on car??

2-I have run a wire from the oil pressure switch (above the oil filter), but cannot find a location on the ecu pinout chart?? What ecu pin does it go to??

3-I have heard that you have to run a wire from the Idle Air Control Valve. There is a connector on the F22 harness that plugs right in, do i really have to run a new wire, or is there an existing wire in the harness i can utilize??

Once again any help is appreciated, thanks in advance

AP
 
1. I grounded it right to a screw on the engine six inches away. VTEC solenoid valve goes to A4. The solenoid valve is next to your distributor.

2. Knock sensor is above the oil filter. It goes to pin D3. Below the oil filter is the VTEC pressure switch. It goes to D6

3. I think you are confusing the IAB and the IAC. You do need to run a wire for the IAB. It is on the driver's side of your intake. It's a pink wire that goes to A17.

For some reason, wiring harness difference perhaps, I swapped my F22 EGR for the H22 EGR. It works perfect. Also, rob the front waterneck from your F22 and reuse it on the H22. This will negate the need to rewire the cooling fan switches.(H22 has one switch, whereas the USDM F22 only had one.)

Please go here: My Gallery, it will help a little.
 
thanks, that helps, but what do u mean when you say IAB, is that the temperature sensor in the intake manifold??

and if the oil pressure switch for the VTEC is above the filter, what is the control named beside the distributor??
-one is the solenoid (single wire)
-what is the other assembly with two wires on the connector??
 
The IAB is an Intake Air Bypass. Think of it as a secondary butterfly that opens at around 4500 rpms. Some people leave it wide open, but that is not the best way. If working properly, it stays closed at low rpms to make more bottom end power. It opens at 4500, 500 rpms before VTEC, to start making more power up top. I wired the IAB, but you don't really need the little black box under the intake. I would have reused the little black box, but mine came busted.

Sorry about the mixup. The Knock sensor is definitely ABOVE the oil filter, no doubt.

I'm sure you are using the H22A connectors on the new wiring, added to your stock harness. Therefore, the new wires you are using should at least start as stock prelude harness colors. Rather than mix yourself up, just look at the picture, read the colors, and run the wires.
s3fdb9af907560.jpg


The black wire goes to any nearby ground, I used the engine itself as my ground, six inches or less away. Use the second picture to identify what wires are to each side.
For example, your D6 pin slot will be empty until you add the wire. Going by the chart below, pin slot D6 should be between an empty slot, and a slot with a light green wire with a red stripe. I gave you this information already, so please take advantage.

s3fdb996f77a23.jpg
 
ok that clarifies a lot, thanks for the info.

But ONE last question. The oil pressure switch for the VTEC is beside the VTEC solenoid. There is a sensor below the oil filter, it looks like a normal oil pressure switch. Where do i wire that one in??? There does not seem to be a connector on the F22 harness. And i am uncertain if it goes to the ecu or somewhere else??

Once again thank you sooooo much for your help, you are a life saver.

AP
:worthy:
 
Below the oil filter is an oil pressure sender. Above is the knock sensor. On your accord, the oil sender was above the oil filter. It's confusing, but I've messed with it a few times now. I have to change my oil and stuff this weekend. If I remember, I'll take some pictures. From what I remember, the sender sends, duh, a signal to your switch, which engages your vtec via the solenoid valve. I ran a blue wire, and grounded the black one next to the solenoid somewhere. I believe there was the oil sender and knock sensor on the back to wire, and the IAB on the intake. Like I said before, look at the wires that came with the engine. Cross reference the charts and run the wires. I fucked around for two weeks trying to figure out what sensor, sender, switch, blah blah blah, did what. When it came down to it, I connected all the wires in a couple hours just concentrating on doing one at a time. Don't overthink it.

Remember to reset your ECU after you finish. Let the car warm up until the fan comes on. If everything is ok, move on and drive the bitch. If you get a code(s), jump the service connector and read them. Elimination is an easy way to determine if you messed up.

You reset the ECU in 90-93 Accords by removing the 10 amp fuse marked Radio(ECU)

edit: Remove it and replace after 15 full seconds.
 
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