h22a all motor cams

[alterdcreations]

well this is a test engine and i do have a f22a crank from another engine so i would like to try somethings out. the bottom end will also be professionally built because i cannot hone the fmr walls. right know it will remain stock.
i do not want to blow the engine so i will keep things on the safe side for now. i am thinking about stroking the engine and boosting it in the future so it has to last. when it is all said and done i will post the dyno sheets and try to gain as much power on the stock parts and a dc header. then i will go from their.
thanks for the opinons.

 

[alterdcreations]

what about skunks stage 1 cams. has anybody used them in a prelude. what would be the best camshaft upgrade while retaining the factory valvetrain?

 

[reikoshea]

i know you saw this, since you posted in my thread on h-t, but here's the specs for honing frm sleeves.

as far as the hone goes. info from honda is that you are to use a 600 grit stone at 45-50 rpms with a 60 deg crosshatch while cleaning the stone and cylinder walls at every 5 strokes up and down.

 

[alterdcreations]

I saw it. very good info. when i stroke the engine that will come to good use.
my h22 was smoking but upon further inspection we relized it was the exgust valve seals so i can save money and leave the bottom end alone(for now). in terms of cams does anybody know how the stage ones work out?

 

[K2e2vin]

K24 guys are revving to ~7400rpm with the K20A head, about the same for regular K20s too(oiling issue at higher rpms).

From what I've seen on H-T, the Jun IIIs made more power than the Skunks and Crowers(dont know about Rocket cams).

 

[reikoshea]

crower or skunk2? both yeild under 10hp gains, but hey, you really cant complain since they work with the stock valvetrain.

yeah, from h-t, the only things that ive seen with REALLY good results are jun cams. i wish i could find a dyno of the rocket cams on an h22. that might help me make my decision. if i see someone with 210+ using rockets, i might go that way...right now im still deciding what i want to do to the bottom end and if i wanna use rocket or crower 3s.

 

[alterdcreations]

i am trying to leave the springs and retainers alone but if i cant then i might try undergrounds cams. i can get jun stage 3 copies for about $545. if i upgrade my valvetrain then these are the ones.(cost effective). i heard that rocket cams are great but i am on a budjet and i cannot justify spending so much on a street car. i might stroke it first to see what the head is putting out first and maybe wait for the cams . beside skunk 2 and crower are the any others? i think rocket makes a cam to use on the stock valvetrain and have you guys heard of brain crower or is it the same as crower? also what about crane cams,gude and web? how do they stand up?

 

[reikoshea]

i think we have one person here using gude and another using web, both seemed to like their cams. i dont know if crane makes cams for the h22, but i know they are pretty good at v8 cams.

 

[alterdcreations]

i just called gude. we said a 15-18whp gain. dont know if its true . looking at their website they have 2 different grinds
PART NO:HPCS06 DESCRIPTION:Awesome torque from 5000 and up POWER BAND 5000 RPM To 8600 RPM IDLE:Good SPECIFICATIONS:IntakeLIFT - .453 DURATION - 258 ExhaustLIFT - .453 DURATION - 258
PART NO:HPCS08 DESCRIPTION:Awesome torque from 5000 and up POWER BAND 6000 RPM To 9000 RPM IDLE:Good SPECIFICATIONS:IntakeLIFT - .445 DURATION - 296 ExhaustLIFT - .453 DURATION - 258.

i like the gude hpcs08. that better suites my driving style.
crowers .
Part# Description Advertised Duration Duration @ .050" Gross Lift w/1.55StockSpecs from H22 US SpecInt- 288 mid
Exh-308 midInt- 231 mid
Exh-234 midInt- 448 mid
Exh-415 mid

StockSpecs from H22 JDM Spec Type SInt- 309 mid
Exh-315 midInt- 230 mid
Exh-230 midInt- 469 mid
Exh-438 mid

63420-2Stock replacement

Factory spring OK for street use with stock rev limit.Int- 305 mid
Exh-323 midInt- 232 mid
Exh-234 midInt- 445 mid
Exh-417 mid

63421-2
Stage 1 - Street Use (12-15 hp)

Factory spring OK for street use with stock rev limit.Int- 307 mid
Exh-318 midInt- 238 mid
Exh-238 midInt- 459 mid
Exh-428 mid

63421T-2
Stage 2 - Turbo / Super Charger special

Short duration, low overlap, high lift for increased performance.

Spring/Retainer Kit 84167 required.Int- 308 mid
Exh-309 midInt- 233 mid
Exh-235 midInt- 463 mid
Exh-448 mid

63422A-2

Features 63422-2 Stage 2 VTEC lobes with stock idle lobes for improved street performance.

Spring/Retainer Kit 84167 required.Int- 311 mid
Exh-308 midInt- 255 mid
Exh-248 midInt- 468 mid
Exh-467 mid

63422-2
Stage 2 - Road/Rally & Street/Strip (15-18 hp).

Spring/Retainer Kit 84167 required.Int- 311 mid
Exh-308 midInt- 255 mid
Exh-248 midInt- 468 mid
Exh-467 mid

63423-2
Stage 3 - All-Motor Drag profile (22+ hp w/other mods).

Most aggressive ramp speeds on the market.Int- 316 mid
Exh-312 midInt- 263 mid
Exh-255 midInt- 468 mid
Exh-468 mid

00065-2Custom and proprietary grinds available, contact factory for specs. Note: At .500" valve lift retainer hits valve guide in stock head configuration.

i think i might try gude. i can surely make more with them than going with crower stage 1's or skunk stage 1. i hope that gude duration is taken at @.050 like crowers. i will talk to call him back soon

 

[alterdcreations]

I have a 1990 accord i putting the engine in. i might rev to 8000rpm but thats not the point. if i spin a bearing or break a rod then oops. i'll have to pick up another block. thats the end of it. i wish i could use a b18 because i have 2 of them sitting right next to me but i cant put that into a accord............................................
so i will built a engine that STILL RETAINS all of low end power but I(builder of my engine)want to get some high end power also.............. so i like the challange. wish me good luck and hope that i succed. and then maybe ask me a ALTER your ride.
anyway does anybody know what web cams specs are?
i like gude cams and their only $540. regrinds. i am looking to do the most with least. if i chose to take the gude cams and i like the power band then i can always get some rods and go for broke.(months or years later) i really want to keep this a very low cost project.

 

[alterdcreations]

i keep it safe in terms of rpms. maybe 7800rpms for now

 

[reikoshea]

werd...im actually in the same boat as you (or so it would seem) and heres what im doing to fix it (i hope your ready)

as blanco always does, he posted up that damned compression calculator and OF COURSE i sit at work for hours and hours playing with the damned thing.

for your current situation, id do the following:

h23 crank (can get a new one for about 500 bucks)
eagle h23 rods (if you look hard enough, you can probably pull this for 300-350)
h22a4 pistons .25 over (320 ish with rings)
good cams (500-600)
new springs and retainers (330-450 depending on if you go with supertech all the way up to manley/skunk2)
.02 head mill and block deck (?)
.25 taken out in honing

youll get another 100ccs that way (more torque) but it definitely will kill your top end. even if that is the case, you will probably still make power into the real top end as you reach the 7000-8000 range.

 

[alterdcreations]

i will not be revvivg till 10,000 or 8,500 if the port and intake manifold work I did doesn't make power their.
if you check out the build all of my modifacations that i did, I should have moved the powerband of my engine up alittle bit higher. i might have lossed some bottom end power BUT that is ok. the beauty of starting of with a engine that makes alot of power in the low end is that when you do the mods to increase the top end power, you may lose some of your bottom end but its still their and the gain in the top far out weighs the lose in my book. that is my goal. if i lose 6tq at 2500prms but i gain 25 hp at 7600 rpms then that a win. thats what i want to do. if i dont loose and power in the bottom end but gain power in the top that even better but i dont mind trying. I havent seen anybody build a h22 the way i have done it (most of then go all out and change everything),me i am trying to keep all of the factory parts and just do some machine work for now.
no cams, rods,pistons,crank untill i test my original set up. that way you can see the results from each indivual mod that i do. after it is set up i will put on a stock
h22 head and intake manifold and see what power it makes (or i will just use one of the million stock h22 dynos out their already).
stage 2(my f22a crank) probe 2.3 rods and stock h22 pistons(maybe malhe low dome for turbo) and some cams(work with stock valve train).
that should be fun. if the head and intake manifold make power then i will sell them and build another. thats the WHOLE point. tommorrow i will be picking the
intake manifold from my machine shop. i will post a picture here and
https://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ba-bb-ca-cd/h22a-rpm-capability-71314/
i am not afraid to try what i think works.......

 

[alterdcreations]

f22a crank is the same as h23 crank. it alot cheaper to find a accord motor for $250 + 450 to knifedge and micropolish and balance)
probe 2.3 ultralight rods $250
malhe or factory pistons
fluidamper pully
coated bearings
that bottom end can take 7800-8500rpms max
thats my next goal .
if i go turbo then i will use eagle rods and mahle pistons
if i stay all motor then probe with type s pistons.

 

[alterdcreations]

I PUT MY FOOT IN MY MOUTH ALITTLE.
checked

 

[alterdcreations]

i check out my machine shop while on lunch and he said come on saturday.
next week i will post pic of the finished product

 

[alterdcreations]

Nope.

 

[alterdcreations]

never have, but i have ported many heads and have always gained power.
i have owned many cars and my fastest has been a mitsu starion boosted to 17psi.(funny they have way more touqe than hp) but this is not a pissing contest. grow up . i shift at 5000 rpms crusing on a avarage. so i like my powerband to be up in than general area. if you cant drive your self dont judge anybody but your self(you must have a small penis or a very low confidence level)lol. either way i dont care. also seeing that i havent thrown any parts into the engine build except for a throttle body i guess i doing pretty good. it also funny how i seen a couple of people rev their h2.3 vtech engine well past 8000rpm but hey i never said it good for relibiality or neither did they but somtimes you have to go their. also its not the stroke as much as the rod ratio that inhibits the engine from reving. the s2000 have the same stroke as the h22! why can it rev to 8800rpms safely? longer rods! i could have fun all day but i dont want to.
so your right and i am wrong. lol.
the stroked out engine is not ment to rev high so to help it get their i will incorporate alot of lighter and stronger parts to help it reach its goal.
the only thing i see happening is me making more power everywhere including up high at your 7500rpm redline plus more.
i know a couple of people like you . if you cant get your point across then you cant focus on anything but trying. please, you dont know me or what i know and i dont think you will every try anything that hasn't been tryed before.


God danm i still havent heard from anybody using a gude cam.
is anybody using upgraded cam with factory valvetrain?
if so what are your comments?

 

[alterdcreations]

how could a getto ninja ever be jealous.
thank you and i will have fun wasting a throttle body. and i will post the dyno and i hope this thread doesn't get deleted.

look below and you'll see my motto and i will always stand by it. unless i get rich then i'll pay sombody to think for me.
maybe i will suceed, I KNOW I WILL.
i tired
peace,love and tranquility. i like that, maybe i will add it on

 

[alterdcreations]

and hear is my Part time job porting heads.
i KNOW that i am good and hear are those ports Getto was taking a riduclus amout of trash about.
if you want to talk shit go somwhere else.
here are some pics for thought. watch me hit my goals with out a problem........
before

and my stage 2 (not stage5 but stage2)

i know i can make power on stock cams .
if i retain the stock valvetrain and find a good cam i will be happy.