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H22A Automatic Swap Problems

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by hahakenny, Oct 11, 2007.

  1. hahakenny

    hahakenny New Member

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    Hi all! I'm new and I've tried searching through the forum to get answers but I think it's just quicker if I post my problems.

    I'm having a JDM H22A Auto swap done to my 95 Accord EX. The engine comes with the JDM ECU and TCU and Auto Tranny. Got the Injen CAI, Ported Stock H22A Intake Mani, Skunk2 68mm Throttle Body (w/ modified pulley for automatic), DC header, and Custom 2.5 Exhaust.

    So the swap is essentially finished but started having the following problems:

    1) Shifter Problems - I assume this is a common issue with most H22A Auto Swaps but I cannot normally just step on the brakes and shift from Park to Gears without sticking my key into the shift lock. What is the fix for this? Any diagrams?

    2) Studdering Problems - My engine starts up fine and revs up to high RPM fine but when I slow give it gas, it studders. Timing is correct and compression checks out. What can be the problem?

    3) Skunk2 Throttle Body - Well, I guess Skunk2 just assumes that everyone that purchases their product only drives manual. The pulley on their throttle body seems to only work for manual vehicles. My tech modded a pulley to fit on the throttle body to work with my auto tranny but it sticks. But of course if we use the pulley that came with the throttle body, it doesn't. My question is, there is an extra cable that runs from the pulley to the auto tranny. What would happen if the cable were disconnected? Could I still drive it normally?

    4) CEL - Finally, I have a CEL light that goes on that says my Air Intake Temp Sensor is bad (one long blink). I changed the sensor out but it didn't work. What could be wrong?

    I hope that someone could help me with these problems. I really want to keep it Auto... Thank you all.
     
  2. hahakenny

    hahakenny New Member

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    Please help with the above. Due to a computer glitch, I posted this thread three times. Please disregard other two.
     
  3. Z6CRX

    Z6CRX übber ɐɾuıu etarip

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    I thought those things on the throttle body were for something like cruise control. Someone double check me on this one. Find out where it leads.
    I don't have an automatic nor cruise control so I can't check for you

    Also, the only suggestion is to be sure that any plugs weren't switched around, starting with the one thats giving a code.
    Map and TPS sensor is a common one that I have seen.
     
  4. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Is there a specific reason it needs to stay automatic? I'm just wondering...

    Edit: By the way, I just realized you're on HSO too.
     
  5. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    #2 sounds like you might have a bad TPS.. it's pretty common on jdm motors for them to get broken. The last H22A I swapped had a bad TPS and didn't throw any codes..

    #3 there is a cable that runs to the auto tranny called a kick-down cable that makes the transmission shift up when you press the gas pedal.. I would imagine it would cause problems if you left it out because the trans wouldn't know you were pressing the gas and wouldn't know when to upshift

    #4 did you clear the codes from the ECU after replacing the air intake temp sensor?
     
  6. hahakenny

    hahakenny New Member

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    Thanks for your input man.

    I told my tech what you told me about the TPS. He says it only has a studdering problem at low throttle. It has full range of RPM and even hits Vtec at the correct point and doesn't throw a CEL. I told him to possibly just get a new one and see if it works.

    I'll let you know what happens. The studdering problem is the only thing that is stumping him.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2007
  7. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    It could be a MAP sensor too, but it sounds like a bad TPS to me. Have your tech check both of those out it's probably one or the other.

    Oh and for #1 there is a solenoid in the shifter assy that will release the shift lock when you press the brakes, so it probably either didn't get connected or the solenoid is bad.
     
  8. hahakenny

    hahakenny New Member

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    I'll have him check on both sensors.

    As for the solenoid, how would it be connected? I've seen people say:

    To make the shift lock operate properly you will need to run a wire from the shifter position switch to the tranny controler. On the left side of the shifter there is a box with about 5/6 wires going into it. This is the shifter position switch. You need to tap into the GRN/WHT wire and run it back to pin A7 on theTCM. Plug A is the bigger of the 2 plugs.

    I wonder if this works?
     
  9. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    I'm not exactly sure how the wiring goes without having a wiring diagram.. but check this exploded parts diagram.
    Honda Automotive Parts

    The solenoid is #5 and the shift lock assy are #'s 6, 7, 9, 10. So somehow you need to get a signal to that solenoid to have it open the shift lock.. I'm not really sure how to do that though sorry.
     
  10. hahakenny

    hahakenny New Member

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    Gotta keep it auto cuz I gots Twin Boys that were just born on 10/4/07 and will need to lug thems around! :)

    Plus I suck at driving M/T
     
  11. hahakenny

    hahakenny New Member

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    Thanks, this helps. I'll try it out and let you know how it goes.
     
  12. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Not quite sure how having to lug people around would be harder with a manual tranny, but if you suck at driving them, then that's understandable I guess. It's just really hard to get the full potential of our motors without a manual transmission, although I suppose the H22 slushbox probably has decent gearing compared to my auto LS.

    Anyways, good luck with it! See you on HSO! :D
     
  13. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    I found some info on getting the shift lock to operate, but I don't take any responsibility for what may happen I've never tried this before...

    more auto swap info courtsey of JWise1203:
    To make the shift lock operate properly you will need to run a wire from the shifter position switch to the tranny controler. On the left side of the shifter there is a box with about 5/6 wires going into it. This is the shifter position switch. You need to tap into the GRN/WHT wire and run it back to pin A7 on theTCM. Plug A is the bigger of the 2 plugs.

    A little more info: On an OBD1 Accord wiring harness for an automatic transmission car, there are 5 plugs - 3 that plug into the OBD1 ECU and the other 2 plug into the TCU. TCU plug "A" has 26 wire positions arranged in two rows, one row on top of the other, each row has 13 wire positions. If you hold TCU plug "A" so that you are looking at the wires going into the back of the plug and the plug latch is pointing up, wire position A7 is on the top row, 4th wire position from the left end. The chances are high that on your Accord's wiring harness, TCU wire position A7 is empty. You will need to get a extra wire from another ECU or TCU plug. Get a wire with the smaller size wire socket crimped on to it. (if you look closely at the pins on your OBD1 ECU or TCU, you will notice that some of the pins are bigger than the others - the ECU & TCU plugs have corresponding big or small sockets crimped on the wires that lock into each wire position). The best place to get a spare plug is the junkyard. You'll probably have to destroy the plastic part of the spare plug to get a wire out - I've tried several times and could never get the socket lock to release. Take your spare wire and push it into the A7 location and make sure the socket locks by trying to pull it back out - it should not pull out. Solder the end of the wire you ran from the Park location on the shifter switch to the end of the wire you added to A7. I'm not positive that the color of your shifter switch Park wire will be GRN/WHT like the one mentioned above - sometimes wire colors change from one year to another, but I am positive that the wire you need is the Park wire.
     
  14. Mulepick

    Mulepick New Member

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    Take apart you auto shift console. You can cleanly remove a little plastic link in there that will bypass the lockup. Just toss it in the glove box if you want to install it later.

    One kick in the ass is that when you swap like this your "D" on the console doesn't illuminate. Unfortunately this is the light that sends trans codes when something's wrong. I'm still wrestling with this issue and the tranny linkage issue you describe. I read in a tranny manual for this trans that you need someone to check the atf pressure at a few different points just off idle and make sure the two cables are synchronized.

    Soon as I get the new timing belt on, along with the cleaned h22 injectors and a new P13 ecu, I'm taking it to a honda shop for them to mess with.
     
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