H22a engine bogs and wont go pass 2000

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No no light at all. Which leads me to believe somewhere during the swap either wires were cut or the light is out.
 
Check Engine Light should turn on (for a moment) when key first goes to "on" position.

My suspicion is the resistor box wiring. But just my Internet 2 cents.
 
So I got that problem fixed. Turns out the tps and the map connectors were backwards and developed a new problem. Can I post this kinda stuff in the same thread??
 
its your thread
do what ya like
 
josh_crewdson@y said:
Usually turns out to be something simple.
I've seen that happen too many times. Lol
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the suspision. My thoughts , either the ignition control module in the distributor or the main relay, which never was replaced in my car. So I'm gonna check that later today for the broken solder. Any other suggestions that may cause it to lose power when the engine gets hot?
 
Hi me again. Has anyone had problems when your car gets hot it wants to shut off??? I'm having that issue now. Oh. Been through too many trials with this h22a swap. Rather not go into depth but this is the problem I'm currently facing. Yes yes I've read forums some say main relay, some say iacv. Some say dizzy cap and rotor. Bought a new dizzy cap and rotor. Still doing it. What else could it be
 
Today I drive it after sitting for about a week. Starts normal let idle for a little while, drove it. Everything was hunky dory until it happened. After getting to normal temperature, the voltmeter I have starts dropping. And the car starts idling roughly like it wants to shut off. According to the meter it will stay around 13 or 14 volts but like I said once it starts getting hot(the engine) or whatever the volts drop and goes back up if its not hot enough yet. But once it's hot it will idle roughly and just shut off. Any ideas?
 
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