h22a into 94 accord ex

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i figure out and fix my check engine. and now the vtec is engaging... and the redline is 7,700 or 7,800 rpm... but still have a lito problem.... my car idle wen the motor is warm up.. and the the rpm drop to zero and the motor dies..... and wen ever time i stop of step on the clutch while driving the motor dies due to the droping of rpm to Zero..... do any one knoes whats wrong with it..... is it does the pin a6 and pin a11 cause it to do that. cuz i havent switch the pins yet. ill do that tomoro and c if it stop or not ... any advice please tell me .... thankyou.
:blink:
 
Originally posted by tab+May 31 2004, 08:22 PM-->
@May 27 2004, 01:39 PM
im using a 94 accord ex harness on a p13ecu. well i read something and they said to switch the two (A6 and A11) so im not sure.. thats y im asking the question. and read that i have to tap the knock sensor and the IAC sensor. is that rite?

94 EX was VTEC right?
You just need to add the knock and IAB wires to the ECU. Then switch pins A6 and A11.
and usually i hear your supposed to keep the accord ex ecu, so try that, im gunna be doing my swap soon

NO. Use a P13, unless you know of a modified ECU or engine management system that will work better. The P13 is meant for the DOHC VTEC 2.2 Liter Honda engine with Knock sensor. The stock ECU will not provide for the fuel, VTEC, and knock sensor adjustments needed. You car would run, but you wouldn't have VTEC, and it would suck.

On OBD1, you do not switch the pins... Hence why lsd-h22a's car is running with no CELs and he hasn't switched the pins... An Accord P0A ECU can be reprogrammed to correctly run an H22...
 
Actually, you DO switch the pins on an OBD1 H22A. I know this from experience. I had an OBD1 Accord, swapped in an OBD1 H22A, and threw codes until I swapped pins A6 and A11.
 
Originally posted by dohcvtec_accord@Jun 2 2004, 08:45 PM
Actually, you DO switch the pins on an OBD1 H22A. I know this from experience. I had an OBD1 Accord, swapped in an OBD1 H22A, and threw codes until I swapped pins A6 and A11.


Well then, I'll just shut up now... :)
 
when running a obd1 p13 on an obd2 accord you don't need to switch the pins. i know this from experience, unless the conversion harness is set up for this which i dont think they are since i ran a skunk2 harness and they are not specifically designed for an accord.
 
Originally posted by project_accord@Jun 3 2004, 05:40 AM
when running a obd1 p13 on an obd2 accord you don't need to switch the pins.

This is true, along with using an OBD2 Prelude ECU on an OBD2 Accord. This is because the wiring harness was changed from the OBD1 Accords with the swapped A6 and A11 pins.
 
ok.. i did the switch A6 snf A11.. .. car runs great... but there a problem.. my car idles up and down.... when the motor is cool nothing happen. but once the motor warms up.. the idle drop.. and as it drop to ZERO my motor dies off. and i dont knoe whats wrong with it... it does that all the time. so i have to kinda step on the gas.. so the rmp wont hit ZERO... like i said if it hit zero it dies. ...ne one knoes whats wrong with it.... any advice would be great......thankyou. and also my car is throwing a check engine while driving.. it didnt comes on rite away wen i start up the car it comes on while im driving for a while.... and i check its the EGR... how could i go on and fix that...... thankyou.
 
if its throwing a code then jump it and write down the code and then check out what that code if for instead of guessing its the egr...

i have had several people with the H22 in accord idle problem...
idle fluctuations and such, and still don't have a solid answer for that one

my suggestion would be to do research on what voltages your tps should be sending and then check to see if its within those specs...
 
well i dont think this will help you but i had an egr code when i did my swap but it was becasue the conversion harness didn't have the wires for the egr in it so i had to add them, check to see that the wires on your accord harness run to the right spot on the p13 ecu. also try looking for a vacum leak on the hoses that run to the egr i believe this could also cause your idle problem.
 
I had that same problem on one car before. Plug the vacuum hose going to the egr. If it solves the problem, great.

The EGR can fuck up whether it throws a code or not. The car throws the code when the valve itself stops working properly. However, it can get very clogged up underneath the EGR.

It happened on a friends car to me(94 Accord LX), exactly as you described. Fine cold, died warm.

Give it a shot, it'll only take a few minutes.
 
so going back to the swapping pins thing,
i have a '94 ex obd1 and im swapping the obd1 h22a, do i need to swap a6 with a11 yes or no, i got so confused some say yes others say no? yes or no??? also about the map sensor, i've heard that you need to get it off the prelude? cuz its mounted on the firewall? and what about the throttle cable? i thought i had this down, but little did i know.... thanx in advance to you all, and thanx for correcting me earlier,
-Omar
 
Your questions are probably better served in the Prelude/Accord swap section.

However....

Yes, you most definitely need to switch pins A6 and A11 if you're swapping a JDM OBD1 H22A with a P13 into your OBD1 Accord.

You should use the stock MAP sensor. I used the one from my Accord, and just left it dangling by the wiring harness and vacuum line.

To my knowledge, you shouldn't have any issues with the throttle cable.
 
Originally posted by dohcvtec_accord@Jun 22 2004, 06:50 PM
Your questions are probably better served in the Prelude/Accord swap section.

However....

Yes, you most definitely need to switch pins A6 and A11 if you're swapping a JDM OBD1 H22A with a P13 into your OBD1 Accord.

You should use the stock MAP sensor. I used the one from my Accord, and just left it dangling by the wiring harness and vacuum line.

To my knowledge, you shouldn't have any issues with the throttle cable.

just to clear things up some more, you said switching the pins for the JDM H22a,

im swapping a usdm h22a, and along with a usdm p13 ecu. does that apply also? as in swapping the pins? thanx
 
I'm pretty sure you have to. What I'd do is, complete the swap and see if you're throwing codes for the Heated O2 Sensor and EGR. If yes, switch the pins. If not, you're good to go. :)
 
And to complete the rest of the story........
You don't switch pins A6 and A11 on 90-93 Accords, or 96 and up.

You only switch them in 94-95 Accords. I also believe that the USDM prelude swap will require you to switch those pins.
 
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