H22a into my 95 LS

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projectxspeed

Senior Member
Alright so I am preppin myself and my car for an h22a swap in the summer. The car is a stock 95 manual LS. What things will I be facing besides the basic swap stuff. The things Im worried about are: which axles to use? will I have any trouble mounting the tranny? Anything I will have to do for wiring?

thx
guys and gals
 
you use the 93 accord midshaft and the 90-93 integra axles. in my civic i used the stock harness and extended the harness for the alternator and obviously since it is a dohc and all the wires had to be lenghened. If your fuel line connects to the fuel rail on the passenger side your gonna need a longer line cause prelude is on drivers side.

got any more questions at all, just PM me
 
so everything will mount fine (with a kit), but what about the lack of vtec in the car, will I have to wire anything special so that the h22a will engage vtec?
 
The end goal is to have a daily driver that is fairly reliable. The 2ndary goal is to run mid to low 13's on the 1/4 and maybe get into autoX down the road. My restrictions are that I want to use my 95 teg and I don't wanna do forced induction.
 
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Feb 19 2004, 12:27 PM
The end goal is to have a daily driver that is fairly reliable. The 2ndary goal is to run mid to low 13's on the 1/4 and maybe get into autoX down the road. My restrictions are that I want to use my 95 teg and I don't wanna do forced induction.
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terrible idea then

you would be FAR better off building your LS engine and getting a tranny with a closer ratio and an LSD
13s wont be too hard to hit
and an H series swap will fuck your car all up for autoX (understeer like a motherfucker)
 
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Feb 19 2004, 07:57 PM
Would I be able to make enough power out of my LS motor going NA? I still want a full interior and be streetable
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Skunk2 intake manny, JDM ITR header, B16 head and pistons, 98+ JDM ITR tranny, and hondata. That'll probably end up costing you less than getting that H22 to work right and matching stiffer suspension to compensate for the ghey understeer you'll achieve. And with that setup, good tires, and good driving 13's shouldn't be too hard to get to.
 
:withstupid:

only i wouldnt even bother with the B16 head

keep your LS head... get a good PnP done... get some crower 404 cams and crower springs/retainers and a custom ECU
go with JDM B16 pistons (cheap and will get you to an 11:1 CR)
 
Yeah, E, but he said he wanted a reliable daily driver. Do the 404's give the good gas mileage that the primary lobes do?
 
E want do you mean by cheap ecu? I do want to keep cost down if i got the b18b route.
 
I saw that article. Very nicely written btw pissedoffsol. I am looking into the build more, but its gettin kinda xpensive. Does anyone know a good place to get crower stuff? Or recommend a good valve train?
 
I've been looking at dyno charts and it seems like the h22a even in stock form with make more hp and tq than a built b18b. I still leanin towards the h22a unless someone can convince me otherwise
 
Oh, Jesus Christ. If you want a drag car, fine! Drop in an H22, but I guarantee it'll be a headache from day one. BTW, you won't have power steering or A/C if you want the H22. But, if you want to AutoX like you said, the H will continually fuck you in the ass. B blocks are lighter and don't skew the already bad weight distribution. Do whatever, but when you take your H22 teg to autoX, don't come crying to us when you have to yank some cones out of your air dam.
 
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