h22a swap into a 91 crx hf

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Well see, there ya go. You actually did get the facts this time, so now your opinion is actually useful. I was just saying that stuff like "yeah one day I saw this street race and I think the one guy had this and the other guy had that so there ya go" doesn't really contribute much to the discussion.

Honestly though, I still don't know. A GS-R swap isn't that cheap to begin with, plus it sounds like they had to put some money into it to just barely get it up to stock H22 power levels. Plus that Type R tranny with the LSD probably cost at least a grand. That's the real kicker in that equation too, the gearing of the Type R is so short and aggressive that it really does contribute to better acceleration and quicker times.

Take that same tranny, mate it up to an H22 using an H2B kit and you'd probably see similar results. Plus, the cost of buying and modding the GS-R to those power levels will probably end up being pretty equivalent to the cost of just doing the H22 swap to begin with.

I'm not advocating one over the other really, I'm just trying to set the facts straight. Honestly, if it came down to it, I'd probably do the B-series myself because it's an easier swap and you don't have to cut or fabricate anything...
 
if you want to make a track car and spend thousands on just droping in a h22 and then make that thing fast as hell with boost, nos and a little midget helping flinstone the bitch then a h is the way to go... but if you want a motor that knock the shit out of your friends friend car then just do a b series and add a few mods and call it a day...

I agree. Well said...
 
Honestly though, I still don't know. A GS-R swap isn't that cheap to begin with, plus it sounds like they had to put some money into it to just barely get it up to stock H22 power levels. Plus that Type R tranny with the LSD probably cost at least a grand

Take that same tranny, mate it up to an H22 using an H2B kit and you'd probably see similar results. Plus, the cost of buying and modding the GS-R to those power levels will probably end up being pretty equivalent to the cost of just doing the H22 swap to begin with

yeah true... but if you think about it as far as droping in the b series there isnt as much to do..everything pretty much drops in with the mounts.. I know of many ppl saying that the h in an ef handels like shit turning and the strait away... and that the cv angles are always off...and we all know that crooked cv's are never good... and to improve it would be even more money...

Honestly, if it came down to it, I'd probably do the B-series myself because it's an easier swap and you don't have to cut or fabricate anything...
X2

lets just both agree that unless hes going to become some professional driver that he should just drop a b series and not try to have a "whos dick is bigger contest"... sure it wouldbe cool to say that you have a h22 in an ef but if its a DD and your not making millions a year think about reliability being safe and do a b series
 
waste of time... you will be disapointed with the outcome. h22 in an EF will only go like high 13 low 14s all day. PLUS, it is a major pain in the ass and cost A LOT of money. But hasport has a few kits that you can get the mounts from. get the h-b kit and run a b series trans, basically just RESEARCH. Its out there.

-Carl-

-Carl-

What an idiot ahahha. thats like saying the h22setup is pointless to put in anycar. If anything the best car to put it in is the 91 si crx or hatch..

Get the ef h2b set up mount wise. if its n si then it already has the wiring there that u need and u man need to cut off front stock mount off traction bar but i forget.. PS also get better suspension since motor is heavy..
 
PS i swear people on here are retarded. If u have money the h22 is the way to go. sonce the h2b setup is over a grand usually. But if u want to make some good power enough to beat local fags like others said on here then get a "LS" n build that. NO b16 or gsr head fuck that its overrated. If ur cheap just get ARP head n main studs n spend the rest of ur money on a AFI turbo mani n a sc63 turbo n beat ass with it. Anyone who says a EF with a b series dotn handle well n is slow ur an idiot n obviously r a noob. Get with the program RICERS
 
PS i swear people on here are retarded. If u have money the h22 is the way to go. sonce the h2b setup is over a grand usually. But if u want to make some good power enough to beat local fags like others said on here then get a "LS" n build that. NO b16 or gsr head fuck that its overrated. If ur cheap just get ARP head n main studs n spend the rest of ur money on a AFI turbo mani n a sc63 turbo n beat ass with it. Anyone who says a EF with a b series dotn handle well n is slow ur an idiot n obviously r a noob. Get with the program RICERS

I have a feeling this is aimed at me since you quoted me in an earlier post calling me an idiot. So have you done an h22 swap in an ef yourself? I feel it isnt worth the time or the money. Also you need to look at what you put into it and ask yourself if you are someday going to sell it. Because 9 out of 10 times you buy a car, build it and sell it...your not going to get what you have in it. So to do an H series in an EF you have to fabricate a lot of shit (one thing being the removal of the stock pass side mount.) later on you decided you want to sell the car etc.. that car can only have the H series unless someone really wanted to reweld the stock mount back in. The h22 does change the handeling of the car. You have an extra 100-150Lbs in the car. When I said the H series is a waste of time i didnt litterally mean "a waste of time" But it is definatly something to think about before you get into it. Its a big change to the car and a big change to the amount of money you have. There are other options out there that will be JUST as fast for an equal or lesser price.

-Carl-
 
I have a feeling this is aimed at me since you quoted me in an earlier post calling me an idiot. So have you done an h22 swap in an ef yourself? I feel it isnt worth the time or the money. Also you need to look at what you put into it and ask yourself if you are someday going to sell it. Because 9 out of 10 times you buy a car, build it and sell it...your not going to get what you have in it. So to do an H series in an EF you have to fabricate a lot of shit (one thing being the removal of the stock pass side mount.) later on you decided you want to sell the car etc.. that car can only have the H series unless someone really wanted to reweld the stock mount back in. The h22 does change the handeling of the car. You have an extra 100-150Lbs in the car. When I said the H series is a waste of time i didnt litterally mean "a waste of time" But it is definatly something to think about before you get into it. Its a big change to the car and a big change to the amount of money you have. There are other options out there that will be JUST as fast for an equal or lesser price.

-Carl-

H22 swap isnt over 100lbs compared to B series, more like 60ish range, I'm not taking the time to find the thread right now on it.

H22 swaps in the EF are a nuisance I will agree, H2B swaps make it a lot easier, other than the hood cowl, having to raise it somehow.
 
I have a feeling this is aimed at me since you quoted me in an earlier post calling me an idiot.

Yeah, he's a fuck-nut. I already chastised him in a different thread for spreading misinformation...
 
Yeah, he's a fuck-nut. I already chastised him in a different thread for spreading misinformation...

U want a cookie?

And to the other guy sorry i came at u like that, i thought u ment that there slow n worthless. And yes i have put a h22 swap with type s internals pulls head build with custom intake mani n huge TB with turbo setup in my old 91 si crx which i parted out n sold. Also if you think about it you never ever get what you put into a car unless you part it out in the end.
 
Whatever....it's all good

I didn't read much of this thread, but I have an 88 hf with a H22A. This is my second 2.2 crx. The first one was gutted with an uncomfortable, lightweight, seat with shop made engine mounts. Now I have nice comfortable interior with Hasport mounts. I can see this swap being hard if a cutting torch and rebuilding your car from the ground up is beyond your grasp. This is the thing, ITS A STOCK ENGINE. I have no power adders to screw it up and I run high 12's on drag radials. Almost 100% stock.... in a way. Also, the steering problems are false on dirt, gravel, and tarmac (snow blows). I live in WV and have driven on many different roads and I have nothing but good results. Only problem is that the CRX is so light and fast you find humps that you didn't know were there. Its all in what your looking for cost, reliability, ease of installation (do you have a garage, tools, engine hoist), and how much down time do you have? Easy cheap swap is a ZC that you could boost later. Good luck
 
yeah true... but if you think about it as far as droping in the b series there isnt as much to do..everything pretty much drops in with the mounts.. I know of many ppl saying that the h in an ef handels like shit turning and the strait away... and that the cv angles are always off...and we all know that crooked cv's are never good... and to improve it would be even more money...

when i drove the h22 ek i just did, it had MAD understeer. h22s are nice for an accord, eg or ek iffy, ef or crx almost no,
 
life isn't easy

I drove the crx everyday 80 miles with drag radials and it dove fine. BFGs held up really well on a light car like this, they still look good. ISF, M45, 2jz sc300, SRT8 challenger and M3s these are what you see all the kids driving. I have 5k in the whole thing and I give people a run. I live in WV bad twisty roads and the cars above are what I see on a daily bases. Along of course with the insane amount of Mopar, bow-ties, and mustangs. And lets not get into the handling there. I have had enough after-market modified turbo engines and at my age and two kids I don't have time or want to tinker on my honda. I have my HPI baja 5T for that. I would put a cadillac northstar in a accord. Sounds cool, get on it.
 
I drove the crx everyday 80 miles with drag radials and it dove fine. BFGs held up really well on a light car like this, they still look good. ISF, M45, 2jz sc300, SRT8 challenger and M3s these are what you see all the kids driving. I have 5k in the whole thing and I give people a run. I live in WV bad twisty roads and the cars above are what I see on a daily bases. Along of course with the insane amount of Mopar, bow-ties, and mustangs. And lets not get into the handling there. I have had enough after-market modified turbo engines and at my age and two kids I don't have time or want to tinker on my honda. I have my HPI baja 5T for that. I would put a cadillac northstar in a accord. Sounds cool, get on it.
a northstar in an accord, hmm , that would be interesting at least.
 
a northstar in an accord, hmm , that would be interesting at least.

lol back when i had my cb7('92 accord), i was considering trying to put in a v6 from a newer accord... i came to terms with the fact that it would not fit unless i wanted to go nuts with metal relocation haha.

:ph34r:
 
lol back when i had my cb7('92 accord), i was considering trying to put in a v6 from a newer accord... i came to terms with the fact that it would not fit unless i wanted to go nuts with metal relocation haha.

:ph34r:
if u had somebody that could do light fab work u would have been fine.
 
if u had somebody that could do light fab work u would have been fine.

that and a wad of cash. i tossed that idea and did some bolt ons, ended up wrecking it and replacing the front body parts. then i sold it like a dumbace.
 
yeah and it sucks not having a lot of money. just workin hard every day to save for the roller skate.
 
I dont know how many of you have actually done an H swap into an EF. I have done one, and just recently completed it about a month ago or so. It is not as hard as everyone makes it out to be. You dont need to remove the tranny mount or relocate it and the wiring is waaay more simple than one might think. If the OP is still considering an H swap, go to explicitspeedperformance.net It took me 10 months to do the swap, and that was mostly money, and the fact that my euro H was obd1, not obd2 like we thought it was. Wiring is mostly extending wires for the alternator since the rest of the sensors are almost exactly in the same place H,B, or D. Raxels makes sick axles for the swap and its a hell of a lot cheaper then driveshaftshop, and just as good of quality. I can honestly say, that i have not seen a b series motor with the same amount of money keep up. I am running with a K series EG coupe, and thats low 13-12.8. I dont see a mild b doing that. Its a good swap, and i recommend it to anyone with the know how.
 
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