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H23 block with H22 head!!!

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by scottp11, Nov 21, 2004.

  1. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    Ok, I resently aquired an H23 block and crank to go with the H22 head I've already had. I want to maximize the bore and stroke and compression as much as I can. I want to keep the stock H23 crank if I can...

    I want a compression ratio of about 12:1. Can someone let me know how to calculate the size pistons and rods I'll need. :blink:

    Where do I measure from? I think it's from the center of the crank journals... But how do I get to the center of a crank journal? Also, the compression... How do I calculate the area of the combustion chamber? I've heard of "cc"ing it, where I put the spark plug in, and fill it with cc's of water... :huh:

    If someone could help out, or direct me to a post that'll help me out, it would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you. :worthy: :worthy: :worthy:

    Oh, and by the way, I read the above post about rod length and stroke... So don't burn me that bad.... ;)
     
  2. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    Did you read the post about the difficulty of the H22/H23 hybrid?
     
  3. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    I have a h22/h23 frankenstein engine, havent started it yet since i'm still working on the problems with the turbo stuff but i can definately tell you its not worth it. but if you have the h22 head and are planning to do high compression i do have the perfect cams for you. i have crower stage 2a's that i have installed but never ran the car since i changed to a turbo and turbo cams. the cams cost $700 from crower. i'm selling them for $300 i can pay for shipping. the cams are highlift and large overlap. they have stock idle lobes for emissons. i think if you are trying to run 12:1 compression these cams will be good. as for blocks and stuff the bore is the same, h22 has more aftermarket parts availible availible for it. my opinion is that for an all motor engine you should do straight h22. feel free to check out my gallery.
     
  4. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    Yeah, I tried to read it, but the guy want's $49 dollars to have him send it to you... WTF?
     
  5. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    honestly, dont do the h22/23 swap. its just a pain in the neck. sell ur 23 bottomend and get a 22. bore size is same between the 2, h23 has longer stroke. but if you really want to do it i know a mechanic that will do it but you have to have ur stuff in maryland. if u give me a day(actually more cuz of thanksgiving) or so i can give u a name and a number to call and they might have everything they did to mine on file.
     
  6. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    I don't really see what the big deal is... A well built engine is a well built engine. I know guys with LSvtec's and CRvtec's and they've been running strong for thousands of miles... Everyone want's to say that building an H22/H23 hybrid is a bad idea, but no one has any legitimate reasons why...<_<

    By the way, aren't the H22 and the H23 block the exact same cast? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

    Thanks to all those who are trying to help!! :worthyp:

    P.S. If anyone knows any other sites or links that'll have info on the H23/H22 hybrid... Please let me know!!
     
  7. nismogod

    nismogod Senior Member

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    h22 rods are longer. i thinks. so use those rods with the 23 crank. +CR

    i'd love those crower cams. mmmm. me and my type-s pistons. lol, can i use those on factory valve train though?
     
  8. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    Do you have some kinda formula to figure out the comp. ratio? I mean with the H23 crank, H22 rods and Type-S pistons? Where can I find all this info? I don't like guess work!

    Thanks for your help!
     
  9. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    No. If they were the same cast, they'd have the same block code.
     
  10. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    I don't see your point. Other than the fact that he spent so much money... I don't see a reliablility factor involved. The engine looks fuckin' outstanding!! :thumbsup:

    I think he may have overestimated his HP predictions, but besides that, the engine looks very well put together.

    He even said you don't have to run an external oil line!!! I'm excited about that.:wub:

    Thanks for finding that for me though, I appriciate it!!! :worthyp: :worthyp:
     
  11. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    yea, it looks outstanding. but the guy that has that motor is telling you its not worth it. doesnt that tell you something?
     
  12. nismogod

    nismogod Senior Member

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    yea, there is a formula. but i personaly dont care to go find it. lol. with the combo mentioned though, i'd personally want to check to make sure there isn't and mechanical issues with things hitting each other.

    as for reliability....i dont think this is what people are questioning in this build. i think its a matter of work in vs. product out.
     
  13. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    That's exactly my point. But if scottp11 really wants to do this just to say he did it, it's his choice. :shrug2: Personally, I'd go get a JDM H22 or a Prelude Type S H22 and be way ahead of the game with a bunch of mod money left over.
     
  14. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    Alright, check this out... Some GAVE me an H22A4 engine that threw a rod through the block. The head is in perfect condition. The water pump, the oil pump, and the tensioner pulley are also in perfect condition. I bought an H23 block with crank for $103.50... All I need now are connecting rods, bearings, pistons, and rings. I figure that since the engine is in pieces why not build it up with hi performance parts?

    So if think I'm just building this to build it... Well, I guess you're entitled to your opinion. :moon:

    Also, no one has given me a legitimate reason on WHY an H22 block is better than an H23...

    Thanx for everyones input!! :worthyp: :worthyp: :worthyp:
     
  15. nismogod

    nismogod Senior Member

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    i have a spare set of h22 pistons on h23 rods. if you care i mean. lol.
     
  16. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    simple; h22=vtec and 200hp, h23=non-vtec and 160hp. also theres geometry, the h22 is built to rev higher then the h23; more revs with torque=more horsepower.
     
  17. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    If H22=vtec and 200hp, and H23=non vtec and 160hp (with longer stroke...) What does H23 stroke + H22 vtec =???

    Answer: more than 200hp...
     
  18. nismogod

    nismogod Senior Member

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    dude, lol, thats not geometry. but it was funny.

    if you notice, the h23 has more torque. because of its longer stroke. that makes all kinds of sense to me. and since HP is a function of torque, a high reving engine that makes more TQ typically will make more HP at similar RPM then lower TQ engines.

    if you do this build....get the H23 crank, h22 rods, h22 Type-s pistons and be done with it. thats the revs from the h22 head, the longer stroke, the longer rods and taller pistons. all kinds of compression. lol.
     
  19. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    FINALLY!!! someone who agrees with me! I plan on using the H23 crank, but I want the compression around 12:1 so I don't know if I want to use the H22 rods and pistons... That's why I want the formula...

    Thanx for your support!!!
     
  20. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    stroke, deck height, pretty much almost anything that is relevant to one another(ie, rod ratio, MEASURING COMPRESSION, ratio of rocker arms, etc.) is geometry. heres the definition of geometry: The mathematics of the properties, measurement, and relationships of points, lines, angles, surfaces, and solids. doesnt that sound relevant to engine design.
     
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