harsh ignition miss in B16

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hatukazi

ambitious...but rubbish
I have a new problem, I just replaced the timing belt/tensioner on my rex along with new OEM plug wires and new NGK platinum plugs.

My distributor is from RichPorter Technologies (anyone heard of 'em?) and I think the igniter is shot. I came to this conclusion because I used to have a del sol and I had an (aftermarket) igniter go bad, felt just the same at steady cruise it misses and sounds like a subaru.

my dad says my O2 sensors are probably bad and I'm running rich which os causing the miss.

really both options suck but O2 sensors at $198 apiece is worse by almost $200, an igniter is $230.

So my questions are, when I took apart my distributor to try and replace my igniter with one from a 98 hx, they are way different and I cant ghetto rig them because the terminals are not labeled and tne shape is different. It looks like the igniter I got for my 94 sol, but I have heard that OBD0 and OBD1 dizzy's are not compatible any body know if I can use the same igniter?

Or if another distributor would work with my engine and ECU? (PR3)

also I need an IACV, CEL just came on today, which one would I order for a OBD0 B16?

I'm pissed cuz I already could have gotten a new engine from Hmotors with what I've spent to fix this and I'm about to fix it with a sledgehammer.
 
The iacv could be the culprit. If it is malfuctioning, your engine is probably getting more air than it thinks. That could cause the harsh miss. Also, check to make sure that the cam timing isn't off a tooth. My roomate did that on his 240sx, and he had simmilar problems.
 
yeah, I forgot to ask if the IACV affects anything besides the idle.

anybody know which USDM IACV fits a OBD0 B16?

and I will check the cam timing tomorrow, if it's off back to the shop it goes, for free this time.
 
I think any most d-series iacv's will work. Honda kept these pretty universal for the most part. I think you may need it from an MPFI car, I'm not 100% sure. You also may need to stick to obd-0, obd-1 iacv's may work, I'm not sure on this.
 
Did it start doing this right after replacing the Tbelt? If so I would check the cam timing to start and make sure all the wires are connected completely. I doubt the O2 sensors would be causing that, although it's possible, but I've driven with an o2 completely disconnected before and it didn't run rich enough to cause a miss. I think that ECU will run off the base maps if you disconnect the o2's so you might want to try that. It will cause a CEL but might answer the question about the sensors.

If you end up needing a new dizzy I have one from my PR3 B16 engine swap that I'm not using anymore since it's being converted to OBD1. It's in the link in my sig.. I'd hate to sell you it if you don't need it though so try to test everything out first if you can.
 
here's pics the cams dont look lined up to me, the little index marks sre off but only a little bit, LMK if you agree so I can bring it back and have it done over.

I have the crank at TDC in this photo.
001-8.jpg

002-10.jpg
 
I can't really tell from the pic if the crank pulley is at TDC. If it is, I think you're timing is fine, because the cam gears look about right. The arrows should point slightly left from strait up relative to the head, while there are little embossed lines on the edge of each cam gear that should be pointing directly at eachother.
 
if the notches point directly at each other they are off by 1.5MM, it didn't look like a whole tooth to me but off a little.
 
my haynes manual tells me that the arrows should point slightly off center to the left, and that the notches should be alligned
 
As long as the cam notches line up with each other when the crank is at TDC then it's installed correctly. It looks right to me in the pics.
 
looks like I'm needing a new distributor, replied in you thread.
 
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