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Head build.

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by efhondakid, Mar 16, 2008.

  1. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    I am starting work on my CRVtec build, I want to start with the head first. I wanna build for boost and would like to make 400-350 at the wheels and have a few questions about a few things. Im gonna have the head ported and milled down for head gasket sake. So what cams should I run? I have heard the GS-R cams work well. Im going to upgrade the valvetrain with Springs valves and retainers, I like the Omni stuff but as far as vavles go I am unsure about what type. High or standard comp. And would it be better to go with standard or oversize? I am also going to have the inake and head port matched, probably going to use the Skunk 2 intake which is made with specs close to the ITR intake correct? And I know that you should match TB to cam specs so what would be a good size if I use the GS-R cams? Injector size? I am going to start on the block once the head is done because I have it and I have the money to do it now.
     
  2. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    If you plan on going boost, I would build the block before the head. Its been proven many times. See Full-Race Motorsports Call us toll free at (866) FULL-RACE A built stock bore ls bottom end, with a stock b16 head with gsr cams made 400whp on 13psi with a full-race pro-am kit.
     
  3. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    I want to use a B20 bottom end, I was going to use my LS but it really isnt going to work now. lol. ( I think you saw the pics) Does anyone make rods, pistons, rod bolts for the B20. I want it to hold together. Crank and sleeves are good to what like 500 on a good tune arent they?
     
  4. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    The crankshaft, yes. The sleeves, no. CP makes a good piston and there is a mass variety of rods but my personal favorite would go, hands down, to Eagle. ARP makes rod bolts three times as strong as the oem rod bolts.
     
  5. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    I know ARP and Eagle have very good reviews, I just wasnt sure if they made them for the B20. Who should I go through for sleeves. Dart make sleeves for this application? What about bearings?
     
  6. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    For bearings, you can use oem (color charted) or ACL. For sleeves, go with Darton.
     
  7. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    Here's a good site to help with your sleeve questions. E-Catalog Index Page

    I haven't seen ARP anything for the B20, though I can't remember how it goes, but for the head, you use somewhere around seven? bolts that match whichever VTEC head you use and then one that matches the block? I'm not sure if this is right as I just read it on a thread elsewhere once. LS could tell you more about that.

    Dart makes blocks. DARTON makes sleeves. :D

    There's your answer on the Eagle Rods...which of course even a little research would have yielded...
    Honda/Acura Integra B18A/B DOHC non-VTEC (also CRV B20B/Z) 3/8" ARP 2000 Bolts-1.771 crank pin/.826 piston pin/.935 b.e. width C-C LENGTHNOTESGRAM WEIGHTPART NUMBER 5.394Stock510CRS5394A3D 5.531+.137520CRS5531A3D 5.862+.468N/ACRS5862A3D 5.967+.573555CRS5967A3D 6.243+.849N/ACRS6243A3D
    Here is the site where I got that information from..Eagle Connecting Rods Application Guide
    Now then, it's time to research the hell out of your build. Ready, set, GO! This should give you a good start. Good luck on your build.

    Have you done any research on this at all yet by the way?
     
  8. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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  9. armluv

    armluv New Member

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    GOOD: Darton MID Sleeves are definitly the way to go they completely replace the cylinders
    and are made with a block gaurd built in so they do not move. You can also get
    almost any bore size you want with none of the complications of overboring. they
    are also tested up to 30 PSI boost with no leakage.

    BAD: MUST be installed by a Machine Shop with a CNC machine, really no other option. Make
    sure the shop you use has people who have performed the work multiple times not an
    easy task.

    Ugly: PRICE $1000-$1500 for sleeves
    $800-$1500 for install
    $1800-$3000 total for new sleeves

    PRICELESS: knowing your block is now bullet proof!!

    as far as internals there are many parts for b20's being made since they are the stronger block for making ls/vtec's.
     
  10. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    I found one, ONE, motor in my area. $750 for 250xxx miles. :mad:. Would this be a good idea? Because one from PasswordJDM is like 800 shipped to me. I will be rebuilding it anyways but the only thing Im worried about is the crank being in good shape. I dont want to get it and have to have it turned and oversized bearings put in it as this build is already costing me a pretty penny.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2008
  11. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    I calculated a rough cost for the build and grand total has brought me to right around $7500-8000 for everthing. This sound about right, just asking from people who have experience.
     
  12. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Buy my block! It's sleeved to 85.5mm (can punch to 86mm easily) and is setup for an 89mm crank, but with all GSR hardware (girdle) in a GSR block.
     
  13. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    Sleeved GSR block, Cal? Dare I ask how much? *raises eyebrow*


    How much are you figuring to spend on the head, parts, labor included?
     
  14. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    I haven't really thought about a total price- it all depends on what you want with it. It's basically a complete blueprinted engine with busted pistons from a bad tune. PM me and we'll talk about it if you're genuinely interested!

    But yeah, basically:

    Golden Eagle sleeved B18C1 block
    85.5mm bore
    89mm crank
    Endyn oil squirter blockoffs
    really really well spec'd OEM bearings with 5k miles (all the EXACT same clearance)
    Probe Ultralite rods
    B16A head with ITR LMAs and Skunk2 cam gears
    Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
    ACT HD/SS clutch mounted with 20k miles, plus another complete extra with tons of meat and 30k miles

    That's what I can spew off the top of my head.
     
  15. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    Scott, I know that I can trust your word, as you and I talk...or rather, type to each other on a regular basis and Calesta, I have read a gazibillion of your posts and trust your word as well. I'm somewhat intimidated to PM you? Yes, something like that. haha That's how I felt, though I never told you, whenever I sent you a message for the first time, Scott. I don't really like to bother people but do enjoy a good, smart conversation with anyone at any time. ESPECIALLY if I know that the person has prior knowledge of the topic being discussed. With that, Cal.....:D
     
  16. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    Thats total build cost. (estimated of course)
     
  17. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    :D I was shooting for 250-260whp on pump gas with the head complete, but alas- never finished.

    Hey, I'm human, just like everyone else. ;)
     
  18. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    Ok, maybe off topic, if so Im sorry. Anyways, which set of rods is the better value, or "has more bang for the buck" if you will, Tuner Toys B18/B20 or the Eagle counter-part? I see that Eagle is a lil more expensive, but are you paying for more quality or the name on the box?
     
  19. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Eagle hands down. You are buying rods that had hours and hours of R&D as well as test proven to withstand 'x' amount of power before breaking.
     
  20. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Are you buying these sleeves from GOD himself? My machinist charged me $1200 to sleeve my block a few years ago. Sleeves were Darton, and he had to line bore it to get my desired bore.
     
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