head probs??

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oh i ment b18a1 lol sorry... hmm they r higher on the b1 ... so if ifound b1 cams to put in a1 tht would make more hp right? tht engine in ur avatar is sweet.. nothn like a foxbody lol. i loved mine it had a 302 H.O. when i had it, it ran a 9.6 on street tires spinnin prolly to the 330 mark... well mayb not that far but close... i found a fully redone head w wrranty for 279. and one for 100 but it was jus used...
 
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dont buy either of those heads just yet. i ll ask my machine shop owner what heads have bigger valves or better numbers on the flow bench if any. you noticed that the specs dont have the size of the valves? it may be just he cams but i'll ask him tomorrow to be sure
 
good news and bad news. the good news is the two heads B18A1 and B18B1 use the same parts. valves, guides, seats, springs, gaskets, etc,...with the exception of the cams. the 1991 B18A1 got a power output of 130 HP@6000 RPMs, and 121 FT. LBs of TQ@5000 RPMs. the 1995 B18B1 got 142 HP@6300 RPMs and 127 FT. LBs of TQ@5200 RPMs. i doubt the extra cam lobe height accounts for 12 HP and 6 FT. LBs of TQ inprovements (+.294mm INTAKE, +.298mm EXHAUST) both engines had the same comressiuon ratio of 9.2 : 1 but the bores and strokes of the blocks were very slightly different. the B18A1 had a bore of 3.189 in. and a stroke of 3.504 in. while the B18B1 had a bore of 3.19 in. and a stroke of 3.50 in. other thinges such as intakes and throttle bodies or fuel pressures could have added to the spec gains on the B1 engine over the A1. or maybe the two engines were tested at different locations and altitude air pressure contributed to the two different specs. also the consider is ambeint air temperature, humidity, and were the two dynos the same dyno and dyno operator/tester? the bad news was the master machinest was sick today and i dont feel like callin him at home. i was hoping he could shed more light on this subject
 
oh ok kool thanks for all the info man. im patient, im gonna pull it down this next week ( i hope) if i aint working on someone elses stuff. gonna take the head to the machine cylinder and head shop in the next town over n c if they can test it for warpage and if its cracked... seem like the b18b1 would b better but im like u, dont see how the extra cam lob hieght can account for that much gains... sorry took awhile to write back had to do a few jobs the last couple days n i been dead tired lol.
 
update on my acura/.... today i decide to drive it bout 25 miles.. the car didnt run hot the first time.... my fans r not kicking on .. as long as i am driving it runs all the way cold... like buried on the cold side... im either gonna change my fan switch or run it on a toggle switch so i know it comes on... glad i dont have to replace my head or not yet anyway... .
 
hot wire the fans...if they come on your fan switch is either bad or there is a wiring issue. also...if your all the way cold wile driving you may have a temp sensor issue. again either wiring or the sensor. check that all is well before installing a toggle switch. changing a fan switch is easier than wiring up a toggle switch and mounting it in my opinion
 
i wired up the fans this morining everything was good went and had descent tires put on and on it was hard to start, well i got it cranked and drove it home w no probs. it ran pretty close to half way the whole time. i leave it running w fans on when i get home to take the kid inside and when i come back out it runnins very rough... gauges was above half way... so i backed it up to park it white smoke was going everywhere and again no water... now i have water (small amount) in the oil..... DAM i guess imma order me a head now for sure.. i just hope it didnt crack the block when the other guy ran it hot... jus giving an update.. (still gonna take the head and have it checked b4 i get new one )
 
the hard starting is an indication of a bad head gasket..now the good news is the block threads are probably still good so you will need a new head if your machine shop cant repair your old one. we ran into this issue with some cadillac northstar engines. they are also aluminum blocks and when they overheat the structural integridy of the head bolt threads was comprimized and the heads wouldnt hold their torque. the result was overheating again. the fix was thread inserts i the head bolt threads. this has only been an issue on some of the 1.6 and 1.7 honda engines lately but thread inserts resolves the problem. earlier honda motors like yours havent had this issue that i know of yet. i'm telling you all this so that your machine shop wont try and tell you something that isnt true. i would be sceptical if your machine shop tries to tell you that you need inserts but i would not rule it out. just be sceptical. you dont want to pay for stuff you dont need
 
ok thanks man i didnt know any of that. that should help if they try to screw me.. appreciate all the help man..
 
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