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Hello......... is this thing on? HELP!

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by kelyysguy, Sep 27, 2006.

  1. kelyysguy

    kelyysguy New Member

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    Greetings and salutations, I'm new and I'm trying to post a question in the swap forum but it won't let me. I'm new to Hondas (mods) and haven't any idea what I have or what I'm trying to put in, h22, b16, Ak 47, AR 15, F16, B52, !?!?!?!? I've searched but all I come up with is alphabet soup and haven't any idea what came in what much less what gen I have. How can I post there? It won't let me in.

    In case you're wondering: 95 lude 5 speed, non Si-non vtec trying to swap in a vtec out of a 95 Accord automatic. I'm debating weather or not to fix the bottom end noise in my current motor or swap in the $400 vtec motor. I'm looking to fix with minumum headaches in order to sell it..... although I may keep it abit longer but I will have to sell it eventually. Minimum $$ and time is the order of the day. It looks as if I found the right place ;)

    I also have a typo in my sig, where/how do I fix that?

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2006
  2. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    read all of these in the forums i paste here. i took the time to post this stuff, so you should take the time to read it. your answers lie within these few forums. if i was you, i would sell it with the problem. it would cost more to fix it than it is worth. just make sure you tell them.

    http://hondaswap.com/read-first-frequently-asked-questions/

    http://hondaswap.com/reference-materials/

    http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/

    http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/
     
  3. kelyysguy

    kelyysguy New Member

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    Can't sell it as-is, it needs to be fixed. Bottom end job would be easy and cheap. I have a sohc motor in it but I don't see a single cam Prelude option in the list you supplied. Closest that it come to is a early 90's Accord motor. Do I have an Accord motor? Thanks for taking the time to post it.
     
  4. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    my suggestion then would be to get a cheap swap. if you can rebuild the block yourself, you could pull it and take it apart in a day. then rebuild it and re-install. possibly over a 3 day weekend if you are so inclined.

    to make things as easy as possibly, you might want to just consider getting a longblock and doing a stock swap. i don't know what motor you have unless you get the code off the block or take a picture of it.
     
  5. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    you're best off putting another h23a in there, which is the stock motor. putting the f22b vtec motor in will be a huge pain and really isn't worth the effort. while the motor itself may be cheaper, but the time you're all done and the car is running, it will surely cost you more to do so.
     
  6. kelyysguy

    kelyysguy New Member

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    mee too

    That's what I was thinking also. Vtec seems like alot of trouble. I can do an in-car bearing swap in about 3 hours. I've done about 8 this way and haven't had a problem yet. I've even just swapped just the bottoms of the mains on a 360 w/ low oil pressure and it came out great. I tell people that and they freak out. They sell big diesel engine mains by the half shell for a reason ;) After all, the bottoms take all the load and the top halves just keeps the crank in place. Granted, the crank' has gotta look good.

    The only problem is it might be a wrist pin or a cracked skirt, that's why I was thinking about an engine swap. It only does it once it warms up. Stethiscope located it to be loudest at the lower/rear side of the block around the rear main area. I do hear it up some also and you can feel it through the clutch. Unplugging wires doesn't change the intesity. I think it's a main, but I can' make it sound better or worse w/ load or heavier/no oil. It acts like a pin or skirt but sounds like a main but doesn't get worse like one. I SERIOUSLY doubt it's a rod or it would have come unglued by now.

    Thanks again.
     
  7. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    interesting...

    do you know about honda bearings?
    how they are diffrent sizes? color coded and stamping to let you know what factory sizes were?

    you mentioned diesels and a 360 so i'm not sure if you know all this

    and i've seen quite a few H23's with lower end problems...
    prob cause people beat on em too much
     
  8. Vosty

    Vosty "REP 4 U" Whore Member!!!

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    LMAO B52's. Hmm your age would be just about right for an 80's party boy listening to love shack FTW!!!

    and welcome to the site btw...
     
  9. d112crzy

    d112crzy im not a n0ob, trust me

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    swapping in an f22b1 would be the same as swapping an h23. adding vtec is easy as hell. just extend some wires to the ecu and you're done.
     
  10. kelyysguy

    kelyysguy New Member

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    hmmmmmm

    So what you're saying is an Accord vtec swap wouldn't be bad at all, hmmmmm. What's the deal w/ the wires? Do I still use my lude ECU or the Accord?
     
  11. kelyysguy

    kelyysguy New Member

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    thanks recked, I didn't know that. I thought Hondas were supposed to be simple ;)
     
  12. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    The bearing swap isn't worth the trouble. As mentioned, you have to match them correctly. If you have the SOHC, then you have an F22A. Any Accord or Prelude F22A would be a direct replacement. The only main differences in the F22A's are the IAB, and exhaust setups. There will be a stamp on your block to the left of your exhaust header, next to the tranny. That will be your motor code. A direct swap is not bad at all, and the cost would be 300-500. An H23 is a step up, but has a few more hassles. Check your code, and come back.
     
  13. hondarin

    hondarin Please enter a value using 50 characters or fewer. VIP

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    if its a SOHC, then it should be an F22A6 which is found in 92-93 accord EX's and some 92-95 preludes. if you get one from an accord it will prolly have tons of miles on it. if you get an H23A1 from a prelude Si, then you will have to add a wire for the knock sensor and run premium gas. i've heard that the 94-95 accord VTEC F22B1 is really hard to swap into 90-93 accords, so it's prolly just as hard to put it in preludes. as tab said, you'd be good just to get a replacement engine from an accord or prelude. The engine you want for the least amount of headache is the F22A6.
     
  14. d112crzy

    d112crzy im not a n0ob, trust me

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    92-95 prelude 's' have the f22a1, but is rated higher than the accords f22a1.

    swapping an f22b1 is the same as swapping an h23 or h22 in there(with the exception of no vtec with the h23). you have to get the tranny mount from the 5th gen accord or tap new holes and move the mounting studs if you have an ex tranny(4th gen only).

    you need to use whichever ecu is designed for the engine you swap. for an h23, the only thing you need to do extra besides the tranny mount thing is to add a wire for the knock sensor. that, or get a p39 ecu(f22b dohc from japan), which doesnt have the knock sensor.

    here's a very helpfull FAQ for you. read everything on there first before you ask anymore questions.
    CB7Tuner Forums - ***** Popular SWAPS/HYBRID thread index *****
     
  15. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    F22B1 is a bad idea. I did it for a friend, and the H22A1 swap makes it look simple. The F22A is closer to the H22A than the F22B1. Trust me on this. There were so many stupid little differences to piss a guy off.
     
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