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Help me trouble shoot my ZC

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Drake, Jun 10, 2004.

  1. Drake

    Drake Well-Known Member VIP

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    Ok I am going to start from the beginning. About 1 1/2 months ago I started my swap. I started out with a 1991 CRX DX automatic transmission and all. I put my DOHC ZC in it and converted my car from DPFI to MPFI and I also took my car from automatic and made it a five-speed. I still do not have a down pipe so keep that in mind when I ask my questions. My motor shakes pretty bad when I start it up. It also sounds like it is running on 3 cylinders. I have double checked my injector wirring, bought a new cap and rotor, as well as plugs and wire's. Here are some of the things I have checked.

    Injector wirring
    Vacume Lines
    Fuel levels

    Things I am going to check:

    Compression
    Recheck wirring and vaccum lines
    Timming

    So what do you guys all think it might be? Any other things I might want to trouble shoot?? Thanks everyone one in advance for any and all help.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
  2. hotcivic

    hotcivic Junior Member

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    try flipping the wires around on the crank angle sensor... this is the sensor bolted to the exhaust cam... if you have the wires backwards it will retard the shit out of your timeing.
     
  3. hotcivic

    hotcivic Junior Member

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    i am assuming you ran 2 wires from the crank sensor to the ecu. i am also assuming your distributor is good.. i have seen distributors do very weird things when they are bad.
     
  4. Projectzc

    Projectzc Senior Member

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    do you have the correct fireing order? Meaning are the plug wires going to the right cyl? Clogged injector take them all out clean each screen in each injector and injector tip. New fuel filter is a good idea. And you timeing belt is correct?

    A new coil or ignitor may be inorder. Take off you dizzy and make sure it turn freely if it is hard to turn the bearing is binding and you need a new distributor. This will cause a missfire. What kind of plugs and wires are you useing? You should use NGK wires and plugs every thing else is junk.

    Make sure all of your wire connections are soider together and then shrink tubed. NO wire crimps.
     
  5. Drake

    Drake Well-Known Member VIP

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    ALright ill try swapping the wires on the Crank angle sensor. My distributor is good it dosnt throw any codes and my car will start it just dosnt hold idel. I think that might be because I dont have a downpipe. Im almost positive I have the correct firing order. I am going to change my fuel filter and try and clean my injectors. I heard cleaning the injectors is kinda hard but oh well. Such is life. Plug wires are "top of the line" from napa. Plugs are NGK Platniums. Most of my wires have been soldered together but a few are twisted still just in case we run out of other options and that is the last thing to check. Thank you all very much for the advice. If any one can think of any thing else please let me know.

    Jeramy
     
  6. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    My zc ran for a little while without the crank angle sensor. If you disconnect the sensor so the ecu runs in default mode, does it idle any better? Also my zc ran real rough without the downpipe installed, I assume because of no backpressure. If your zc used to have an automatic tranny on it, there are two "ports" on the back of the intake manifold for some kind of vaccum lines. Make sure these are plugged up, if not plug them and reset the ecu. This made my zc run rough until I fixed it. Just things to check for that I overlooked when I did mine, hope this helps. :)
     
  7. timEspeed

    timEspeed Senior Member

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    I just got my ZC working last weekend after 9 months + of trying to figure it out. If you want it to work you must: Have the timing set by a competent repair shop, Wire the CAS and injectors (2 and 4 i believe) to the ecu, switch the TPS wires and CAS wires (along with the resistor box, etc.). Having completed those tasks, reset the ECU by pulling the 10 amp Hazard fuse in the engine bay for 10 seconds, Restart the car, come back to Hondaswap and tell us how many times the ECU flashes. Any combination with a code 4 or 9 means you fucked up the wiring. I didnt think that my wiring was the problem for a lonnnggg time. The only way I got it to work was to be humble and redo the subharness with solder and shrink wraps. Hope this helps. If not feel free to send me a message anytime, I understand your pain.
    ~timE
     
  8. Drake

    Drake Well-Known Member VIP

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    Here is an update. I got my code 4 figured out. It was bad wirring, my dad completly missed splicing two wires together. I found a header and downpipe that will work I just need to trim the gasket some. Then im going to fire it up and see what happens from there. Ill update agian once ive gotten that far. Thanks for all help guys. Take it easy.

    Jeramy
     
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