help w/header install,cel problem

[Samuels]

Okay I'm about to order my new header for my b16 gen 1 today. I have a dc sports 4-2-1 header the thing is when I jacked it up it has 2 o2 bungs I think. It has 2 sleeves it looks like with wires coming out but dc sports only come with 1 bung hole. The previous owner did this and I have no clue what to do. The aftermarket headers for a 94 delsol and 99 SI DOHC all have 1 o2 bung right in the middle by the outlet. What do I do here?

Also I'm trying to decide which header to buy. The megan racing header is 120 and 135 with a cat delete but it only has a 2.1 outlet? The JDM replica type r is 200 and the dc sports 4-1 is 235. Which 1? Not sure about the outlet size on the dc I think the r is 2.5.

Also I have gutted my cat but I have a apexi catback I believe its world sport. Are all aftermarket exhaust systems 2.5 or is mine? Also it has 2 cat looking like reasonators after the cat are this restricting performance or should I remove them. The car is'nt loud at all and has no farty sound at all. I love the exhaust sound but I wanna make sure its flowing its best.

I also am throwing a check engine+ it seems after getting on it hard on deceleration especially. It only does this sometimes and mostly after running it hard and letting off the pedal.

thanks

 

[posol]

Originally posted by Samuels@Apr 5 2005, 01:11 PM
Okay I'm about to order my new header for my b16 gen 1 today. I have a dc sports 4-2-1 header the thing is when I jacked it up it has 2 o2 bungs I think. It has 2 sleeves it looks like with wires coming out but dc sports only come with 1 bung hole.

obd0 ecu's use a split signal-- one for each pair of runners.

you need to run the 2nd o2 to signal C8

this is the stock header set up:

here's a DC modified to fit two bungs- you can pick up a bung for like $1 at a hardware store and weld it in place...

that's the correct way to do it.

if you don't have a welder, any exhaust shop should be able to do this. and PLUG the bung near the back of the collector.

the ecu uses 1 o2 sensor to adjust the a/f ratio for the pair of cyl it flows.

1 o2 for 1 & 4.
1 o2 for 2 & 3.

this is the way the pr3 and pw0 ecu's are designed to work.

Also I'm trying to decide which header to buy. The megan racing header is 120 and 135 with a cat delete but it only has a 2.1 outlet? The JDM replica type r is 200 and the dc sports 4-1 is 235. Which 1? Not sure about the outlet size on the dc I think the r is 2.5.

megan = crap. don't even consider it.

if you go with a 2.5" collector, keep in mind it requires a 2.5" cat. i personally don't have an opinion on either. they are both pretty much the same thing. the DC may be easier to modify...

Also I have gutted my cat but I have a apexi catback I believe its world sport. Are all aftermarket exhaust systems 2.5 or is mine?

i've seen 2-4.5" on the regualr market. it can be anything, or any metric measurement in between. most likely, its 60mm.

Also it has 2 cat looking like reasonators after the cat are this restricting performance or should I remove them. The car is'nt loud at all and has no farty sound at all. I love the exhaust sound but I wanna make sure its flowing its best.

removing the resonator will make it loud, and the gain is like .00000001 in the 1/4 mile. so not worth it.

I also am throwing a check engine+ it seems after getting on it hard on deceleration especially. It only does this sometimes and mostly after running it hard and letting off the pedal.

pull the code.

thanks

[post=483193]Quoted post[/post]​

werd

 

[Samuels]

Thanks was for whoever helped me in this thread. So basically the thing is wired up the correct way with 2 o2 bungs on my dc sports 4-2-1 and I should copy that setup for my new header?

Is 60mm 2.4 inches diameter?

I'm a complete newby with regards to ecu's. I exactly do I check to see what code its throwing?

 

[GSRCRXsi]

60mm= 2.36in