HELP!! whats going on

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94_gs-r

can you say 260 whp N/A??
first ill give you the setup

weisco ib spec rods
weisco ib spec pistons 13:1 compression
greddy timing belt
stage2 kevlar clutch
fidanza flywheel
portflow port and polish
portflow dual valvesprings and retainers
supertech valves
blox tuner hsl camshafts
aem adjusable cam gears
mugen valve cover mugen oil pan
fluidampner
aebs sleeved 85mm bore
skunk2 pro intake mani
skunk2 70mm throttlebody
apex-i intake filter
greddy evo 2 catback exhaust
hytech 4-2-1 header, greddy voltage stabalizer, greddy oil catch reservoir, spoon ground wire system,
arp rod and head bolts/studs
rc 550cc injectos paxton fpr
eagle fuel rail
now the problem
after putting the motor in i drove it a few miles without a tune, motor still ran fine, i took it to seattle, had the car tuned, made 236/160 drove it home from seattle wich is about 300 miles car ran perfect the entire way, got it home still drove it a bit then car sat for about 2 weeks, i switched the throttle body out, it was tuned on a 72mm and i installed a 70mm
tuner assured me it would not make a diff and it didnt really, but when i installed it the idle was everywhere and all through rpms it would kinda choke, so i switched the gasget around to see if it would make a diff so the solenoild on the back of the intake was blocked.(the hole from the inside the throttlebody that goes into the back of the intake mani into the solenoid) and it idled fine that way but then every time i drove it it would look like i was driving a diesel, bad black coulds of smoke and blue smoke at idle and would still studder really bad and not stay running unless my foot was on the gas.
so obviously its burning oil also.. checked the compression and its perfect 285 all across, switched that solenoid cause maybe it was bad and realigned the gasket the way its supposed to be now it feels like its missing in 1 cylinder all the time. wont stay running idle is everywhere and under load its throwing out white puffs of smoke.. what would cause this? head gasget couldnt be bad or compression would be off right?... im completely confused on what to do... ive troubleshooted alot of things, i hope its something simple to fix, it ran fine after being tuned now it seems to be getting worse and worse... whole thing has maybe 700miles total.
any suggestions would help..
 
White puffs of smoke makes me believe that coolant is getting into the combustion chamber somehow. Have you checked your oil to see if it has been contaminated with coolant or vice versa see if oil has gotten into the cooling system? If the car was setup with the other throttle body I would have kept it on there.
 
i checked the oil and there is no coolant...it smell like fuel on the dip stick...do you think that it could possibly be a map sensor or tps sensor??? thanks for the help
 
Are you using the same map sensor that the car was tunned with? Also you might want to reset the tps sensor since you did switch the throttle body to make sure it is right. That could definetly cause some problems.
 
no. i was using a diff one... i dont know how to reset the tps.. i just pluged it back in,.. your right though, i replaced the map and it at least idles for a min lol then it flutuates but plugs are lean now..
 
Check a repair manual it will tell you how to set the TPS sensor. You usually probe the wire with a volt meter untill you get .5 a volt. Also are you running the same fuel that it was tunned on? That is some awefully high compression you are running!
 
Also do you have any check engine lights on? If you are throwing a map or tps code you might have the connectors switched around. On my 2000 si they are the same type plug and will plug on either sensor. If you are not sure check a repair manual in the electrical section to make sure they are the right colors. Having them switched around could definetly make it run like shit!
 
yea on mine there the same also. but if there switched around and u push on the gas it chokes it. no check engine lights. same gas it was tuned on. we use 92 octane, got a few miles on it and i think it spun a bearring or something... just started knocking.. im having more problems with this motor than i should have,,, you would think after having the bottom end assembled by a professional that it would last more than 1100 miles..
 
Yeah that sucks. If it is knocking no use trying to run it anymore. It might just be running bad because of its mechanical condition and nothing to do with the electrical or tunning.
 
You still got that other bottom end dont you? If worse comes to worse you can always swap that back it so you have a car to drive. Just curious who assembled the bottom end for you? Also how many miles of did you drive it before being tunned?
 
bottom end was built by jerry at jerrybuilt racing
put 700 miles on it before getting it tuned.
it sounds like more of a ticking sound, like a valve tick but its coming from the block.. im wondering if its just a bearing or if maybe the piston came loose..
tryin to sell the other motor so i can afford to fix this one haha
 
On a setup like that you should have tunned it right away. Especially with that kind of compression. You can cause crazy amounts of damage to a race motor like that in a matter of miles if not setup properly. Well I hope you make out alright on it. If it is just a bearing that went out you should be able to salvalge most of it. For future reference unless u know how the car is running it is best not to run it at all. You dont need to put a bunch of miles on a motor before tunning, that is a misconception. If everything was clearanced right you should be able to make pulls on it right away while tunning. Are u sure that it is a knock? It could be slight piston slap from the extra clearance needed for forged pistons.
 
You know this is all kinda funny, Well let me introduce myself first, I'm rexy from the graet state of NC, I have a 91 crx with a jdm b16a swap, I'm having some what the same issues, I traded a fellow my 91 hatch with a jdm zc swap for this crx , when I got the crx it ran very strong, and I took the advise from a friend and changed the intake manifold , I when with a ABES pro style unit and after I got it on the car it ran kinda ruff, and puffs black smoke, so I take the car out for a drive to see how it does on the road, it seems to do okay, a little sluggish on the bottom side do to the extra fuel , but as I come around the last turn before I get to my road it blows white smoke as if the head gasket blow ,,, but as I go down my drive way the smoke goes away, so I check a the fluids and I have no water or oil transfer at all, so I change my plugs a few day later and take another drive and I go around another turn and it blows white smoke again, both turns that I have taken when it blows the smoke are left hand turns (werd),I think I'm going to swap the manifolds again just for kicks , maybe that will help ... but it seems strange to me that you and I are having the same kinda problems.. we must be sucking coolant from somewhere into the cylinders ,,,, anybody got anymore ideas ?? sure would help...thanks guys..
 
There is a coolant passage where the intake manifold bolts up to the head. It is possible that the intake manifold gasket is blown or torqued down in the wrong sequence or to the wrong torque spec that could allow coolant to get into the #4 cylinder I do believe. That could be where coolant is getting in and explain why there is no coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant.
 
On a setup like that you should have tunned it right away. Especially with that kind of compression. You can cause crazy amounts of damage to a race motor like that in a matter of miles if not setup properly. Well I hope you make out alright on it. If it is just a bearing that went out you should be able to salvalge most of it. For future reference unless u know how the car is running it is best not to run it at all. You dont need to put a bunch of miles on a motor before tunning, that is a misconception. If everything was clearanced right you should be able to make pulls on it right away while tunning. Are u sure that it is a knock? It could be slight piston slap from the extra clearance needed for forged pistons.


i had my tuner make a basemap for me before getting it tuned so that it would run correctly.. i dont know if its a piston slap.. first time i had the car tuned it had about 300 miles on it, soon as i hit around 700 or so, it got a bit louder. sounded like the lma's may have been loose but when i took my car back to my tuner he didnt want to tune it because he didnt want to be responsable for blowing the motor... i dont know what would cause this.. it hadnt been raced yet or anything..
 
You know this is all kinda funny, Well let me introduce myself first, I'm rexy from the graet state of NC, I have a 91 crx with a jdm b16a swap, I'm having some what the same issues, I traded a fellow my 91 hatch with a jdm zc swap for this crx , when I got the crx it ran very strong, and I took the advise from a friend and changed the intake manifold , I when with a ABES pro style unit and after I got it on the car it ran kinda ruff, and puffs black smoke, so I take the car out for a drive to see how it does on the road, it seems to do okay, a little sluggish on the bottom side do to the extra fuel , but as I come around the last turn before I get to my road it blows white smoke as if the head gasket blow ,,, but as I go down my drive way the smoke goes away, so I check a the fluids and I have no water or oil transfer at all, so I change my plugs a few day later and take another drive and I go around another turn and it blows white smoke again, both turns that I have taken when it blows the smoke are left hand turns (werd),I think I'm going to swap the manifolds again just for kicks , maybe that will help ... but it seems strange to me that you and I are having the same kinda problems.. we must be sucking coolant from somewhere into the cylinders ,,,, anybody got anymore ideas ?? sure would help...thanks guys..


i am running a hondata gasgit on mine for the intake mani, it wasnt sealed properly, i took the intake off and there is a little trail of water seeping down the runner on the #4 cylander... i resealed the gasget and the white smoke went away,... then discovered my motor is going to shit anyways lol
im wondering how i can narrow down the problem... but its inside the block so there really is no way of telling whats really wrong
 
well I changed My manifold back to the original manifold today, and my problem is solved ... Thank GOD...I was worried that my motor took a crap too... man I'm sorry to hear your motor is going bad ,, you seem to have a good looking set up... good luck with it ......
 
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