Help with troubleshooting 92 Accord

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andreahud

New Member
I have been over on another forum and while it has been helpful, it's recommended that this site may be more helpful.

We have a 92 Honda Accord. It runs. Muffler newly added and a new timing belt. We've checked and rechecked to be sure timing is correct and that all marks are matched correct. The symptoms are as follows, small oil leak in the back of motor at the oil sending unit (we were told this would be a 3 buck fix and don't believe it has anything to do with what's occurring now). The car starts and idles ok, but when you hit full throttle, it starts spitting and sputtering at about 8K. Any suggestions.

We pulled the trouble codes from the ECU as 4 and 15. There are several reasons for trouble code 4 and we don't know where to go from here....trying the least costly of all repairs first. 15 is something about the ignition output.

Thank you so much, in advance, for any advice you could give.

Andrea
 
No, it doesn't idle high at all. The previous owner and also our friend, told us that he replaced the distributor cap and the plugs but that he didn't replace the wires...could that be the culprit? Especially given error code 15 relating to ignition output? Thx.
 
8k, as in 8000RPM?

Sounds like a distributor issue(as both of those codes are tied to the distributor). Replacing the cap is not enough.
 
Welcome to Hondaswap!

I still vote to check the timing and possibly replace the distributor and it's components (cap, rotor, wires).
 
what engine is in the car?

I'm sorry but hubby isn't home and I looked under the hood...the engine says 16Valve Honda and over on the side on this box thing it says Quantity: 3.5 liters

I hope that's not a laughable answer, but until I can find out for sure, that's all I got. :)
 
Welcome to Hondaswap!

I still vote to check the timing and possibly replace the distributor and it's components (cap, rotor, wires).

Thanks. it seems busier over here :and who couldn't love the talk of titties and vigorous super model sex! LMAO
 
If you pop the hood, to the left of the exhaust manifold you will see an engine stamp. If should say something like F22A6.

21589830015_large.jpg


You will notice just to the left of the manifold pipes, there is that little flat spot and has numbers and letters on it. That will tell you which motor it is.
 
If you pop the hood, to the left of the exhaust manifold you will see an engine stamp. If should say something like F22A6.

21589830015_large.jpg


You will notice just to the left of the manifold pipes, there is that little flat spot and has numbers and letters on it. That will tell you which motor it is.

F22A1 Thank you so much for that information. Hubby couldn't find the info either. BTW, is the above picture a stock photo? I only ask because it looks like there's a phone number on a piece and it begins with the same exchange as mine. Probably not even a phone number but I found that ironic.

Also, hubby says it's breaking up at 3-3K RPM.
 
F22A1 Thank you so much for that information. Hubby couldn't find the info either. BTW, is the above picture a stock photo? I only ask because it looks like there's a phone number on a piece and it begins with the same exchange as mine. Probably not even a phone number but I found that ironic.

Also, hubby says it's breaking up at 3-3K RPM.

No, that's the motor from a 92-95 Civic. The stamp says D15B7. No phone numbers on that engine stamp. It would be funny if you could call it, though.

Like Kevin said, try a different distributor and see if that fixes your problems. If your hubby has a timing light, that will make it easier when trying to get the ignition timing perfect, too. If he doesn't have one, he can rent one from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto or some other store that may be closer to you.
 
Good God...been gone for a time while we worked on the car....the timing is right, new distributor (rotor button, wires, etc.) exhaust manifold, oxygen sensor, oil switch, throttle position sensor (or something like that), new starter and new battery. Now, the engine light is still on, someone told us that the codes needed to be erased from the ECU but how? No one has the machine/tool that will take the codes off...it's a 92, so it's OBD I. Any suggestions?
 
Take the negative battery cable off for eh.... 10 seconds and that'll erase the codes
 
Try not reving to 8,000rpm. Maybe your just bouncing off the rev limiter, not sputtering? lol

The factory redline for the F22 is like 7,000-something, not 8.
 
Actually lower; like 6500rpm. Rev limit should be a tad higher.
 
OK, well we did the battery detach....took different fuses out and put back in and I'm thinking since the engine light will go out but then soon come back on, plus still getting trouble code 4, that there still MUST be something wrong.

For example, last night, we reset the CEL and the car started right up and we took it for a spin, less than a 1/2 mile into our drive, the CEL came back on. Hubby said something about it seems to come on when he gets around 3K RPM. His exact words, "It won't lt me get over 3K".

Anyone know about trouble code 4...something about the crankshaft position sensor (CKP). I read where it could be loose wiring or plugs not right...but we've checked all of that.

My husband is so obsessed about clearing the ECU and getting the CEL to go off that he's avoiding the fact that there could be something else wrong. Must be a man thing...LMAO Anyway, other than the above, it runs and sounds good. He has been able to use it to back and forth from his job, but I don't want him to be causing more damage and I just have this inkling that it's not anything major.
 
Yes, Code 4 is CKP, or Crankshaft Postition Sensor. It's located inside of the distributor.

Only way to fix that sensor is to replace the distributor.

A low "rev limit" is a sign it's in limp mode.
 
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Why is it that my husband is fighting having to install a new distributor? I told him to do this before on another's advice and instead, he replaced everything to do with it, except to replace it. He was doing so much work on it, I thought for sure he'd already taken care of it. Is there some reason why he's not wanting to do this, especially if everything and everybody is telling us this is the problem? Is it expensive to replace or something or is he just being hardheaded? :)
 
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