Hey help me out here OG's - 96 Saturn Sl1 Turns Over Won't Start

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|Chaz|

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So my little brothers 96 Saturn Sl1 broke down on him at work. My mom has AAA and had it towed home.

It has spark, gas and air. The CPS has been replaced along with the spark plugs and coolant sensor.

I know it has spark because I saw the spark arc.

I know it has gas because I can smell it after removing a spark plug.

Air filter is relatively newish.

What am I missing?

Been trying the Saturn flooded start work around. I'm running out of ideas.

He should have bought a Honda. Posts have also been made on a Saturn forum.

@civicious

Anyone else that has any general car knowledge. I'm really trying to get this piece of shit running so my mom doesn't have to drive him down to Seattle for work.
 
Compression test? Spark on all 4? Fuel at all 4? If it has fuel air spark and compression it should be running. There has to be something overlooked. Could be getting too much fuel from a plugged injector dripping instead of spraying?
 
pull all the plugs and let the engine spin over for a bit to try and vent any excess gas in the cylinders...
put plugs back in and see if it fires off
almost seems like its just not getting spark at the right time, perhaps?
i would go with a compression test, might not have enough nut left to ignite the fuel with a cold motor.
 
after you spin it over you can put the plugs back in and see if it will fire off starting fluid
if it has low compression or a weak fuel pump this might do the trick to get it running for now
once the motor warms up it should restart until it gets cold again
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm working on trying them . Can't check compression. I don't have the tool.

Tried pulling the plugs out. They came out gassy and wet. Obviously getting fuel. Maybe too much. They were just replaced last night.

Originally it had started at his work and then sputtered out. It has to be a fuelling issue in thinking now.

I've actually never used starting fluid before. How exactly do you do it?
 
pull the tube off the throttle body, open throttle plate, and spray in starting fluid
NOT TOO MUCH!!!
 
Ugh. In the future, just email me or text me, I'm an old person when it comes to 'realizing someone has tagged me in something on the internets'.



Just saw this, give me a few minutes to collect myself.
 
Check continuity from the crank position sensor to the PCM, pin 13 on the PCM should be the yellow wire to the CKP, pin 14 should be the purple wire. I think it's purple, the wiring diagram says 'ppl' and I'm not familiar with GM's retarded ass way to designate wiring colors. So, whatever's in the pin next to the yellow wire at pin 13. If both of those have continuity, check resistance of the CKP - should be around 800 ohms. It's not uncommon for sensors for piece of shit cars to be pieces of shit themselves out of the box, so never ever say 'It's a new part so I can eliminate that'. If resistance on the sensor is good and you have proper continuity from the sensor to the PCM, get yourself a scantool with live data monitoring and watch the data as you're cranking the engine - you should see a positive value for the RPM. If you have proper resistance through the sensor and continuity to the PCM connections, and no RPM signal, you need a new PCM.

Or, you could just light it on fire, because it's a goddamn ten year old Saturn. I didn't even know they made Saturns back then.
 
Wait, you said CPS....you don't need to replace the camshaft position sensor, you need to replace the CKP - CRANKSHAFT position sensor.



A bad camshaft position sensor causes rough running and misfires. A bad crankshaft position sensor causes no-starts or "stalls and won't start again when it's hot".

Verify which sensor you're talking about, and if you replaced the camshaft position sensor, go back and replace the correct sensor and report back.


Why the fuck do you people always just want to throw parts at stuff and see if it fixes it? Jesus goddamn christ, it's not rocket appliances.
 
Sorry Wil, I meant crankshaft. I would have messaged you but I know you're busy with the racecar.

Thanks, I'll give everything a try and I'll report back when I get a chance to.

I actually was considering burning the fucker. Its a piece of shit.

Dumbass brother had been driving it around on toast wheel bearings. Didn't ask me to look at it until it sounded like gravel. I pulled the knuckle off and bearings came rolling out. Fucking races were all destroyed. I made him order a used one off of eBay.
 
I only just noticed the tag as well, sorry about that...

I would just do what's already been recommended, and Wil owned everyone so listen to him. You can usually borrow a compression testing tool for free from many auto parts stores.
 
I just tagged everyone online at the time and of course Wil because he knows everything lol
 
Wil always busts in the door and drops some real knowledge...
the rest of us are parts slingers for the most part.
 
I know I am coming in a little late here but another thing you may need to look into is the craptacular gm anti theft system. That would be a paslock1 system and those are know to fail alot.
 
Tell him to start saving for a new car. Or at least a 90s Honda.
 
Thanks guys. The lazy little bastard has just been riding the bus and I've been too busy to get a chance to go over there to mess with it.

I have plenty of things to check now at least lol.
 
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