Hi, I'm confused about what setup I should choose

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1994HondaAccordEX

Junior Member
I've been around other forums for a while and just happened to stumbled accross hondaswap. I did a search around and found most of the info very helpful. However, it just raised a biggest confusion ever.

I have a 94 Accord EX Auto [f22b1 SOHC VTEC].

My original plan was to drop in a JDM H22a (92-96) OBD1 block. I think it's the only closed deck H22a. Anyways, I set my goal to be higher and want to boost it - aiming somewhere from low 13s to high 12s [I don't know what numbers i should expect to the wheels].

With stock internals, I think it should run fine with 7-8 psi from a Turbonetics T03/TO4E 60 Trim [I think that 60 is pretty average since it spools up fine without that much of the lags and can offer higher ends] - I think at 8psi, I should get about 275hp, that's what they claim for a stock prelude though.

But also, i've heard from many other people suggest that I should get the H23a DOHC-Non Vtec from the earlier prelude series for much less, rebuild it and turbo it.

But the H22 folks also state that there're more and more H22a parts and application available for future tuning.

So the main question is that:

What set up can help me achieve my goal for street all go with lesser budget, more stability and better setup. I don't want my motor to go bye bye due to lack of proper setups.

Thanks everyone.
 
I know a guy who turbo'd his H23 and it blew up. he then swapped in an H22 boosting 7psi on a t3/t4 and hasn't had any problems. my friend matt is also boosting an H22 in his ek hatch, same size turbo as the other guy although my friend matt will be using hondata. another guy I know had an H22 turbo setup in his eg and it also blew up. get proper tuning and fuel management and you'll be fine boosting 7-8psi on stock internals. you should be able to reach 275whp easily with proper tuning.
 
So, of 3 guys you know, 2 had it running good, one had it bad. I guess it's the tuning who'd do the trick then.

Also, I forgot to ask that since I'm the only one who can drive manual, but my family members will also be using it, is there anyway to make an auto tranny hold on to that much of power? I heard that auto don't respool and that one way to keep the tranny from falling apart is having it oil cooled. I mean what else can I do to make it safer and drive easier?

I know auto is suck, but I can't make my parents go learn how to drive manual. Because I'll often take my father's truck, that's why he'll be using my car to/from work.
 
Is the car you're swapping engines in and turboing manual or auto? If it's manual I'd suggest keeping it manual and having them learn how to drive it. besides if one of your family members is ever in a situation where the only car available to drive is stick then it's good to know.
 
What I would have done if not for the sleeved H23 I have now:

Get an F22b. It is basically the JDM equivalent of the H23, and is even sold as an H23 to unsuspecting buyers. Same Horsepower, a little less torque.

The difference?

No FRM coating on the F22b sleeves, which is the main reason us H-Weilding Prelude/Accord guys can't run too much boost on stock internals. And don't even think about going Forged pistons without new sleeves on an H block.
 
Originally posted by [Freemantle
,Apr 18 2004, 08:32 AM] What I would have done if not for the sleeved H23 I have now:

Get an F22b. It is basically the JDM equivalent of the H23, and is even sold as an H23 to unsuspecting buyers. Same Horsepower, a little less torque.

The difference?

No FRM coating on the F22b sleeves, which is the main reason us H-Weilding Prelude/Accord guys can't run too much boost on stock internals. And don't even think about going Forged pistons without new sleeves on an H block.

but would it even more rare to find parts?

From what I heard, H22a rebuild + turbo > *

I'm not sure of which way to go.
 
I'm speaking with budget and ease at mind. When I say identical, I mean frikin' identical. They even have the same exhaust shape (more oval than the H22). I know people that have added h23 parts to their car for years and just recently discovered they have an F22b. If you have dinero, there is no reason not to build an h22 for boost (closed deck, the open deck of the 97+ models don't hold boost well). Just be aware that you are talking about almost 1k in swap difference.
 
Originally posted by [Freemantle
,Apr 19 2004, 07:21 PM] I'm speaking with budget and ease at mind. When I say identical, I mean frikin' identical. They even have the same exhaust shape (more oval than the H22). I know people that have added h23 parts to their car for years and just recently discovered they have an F22b. If you have dinero, there is no reason not to build an h22 for boost (closed deck, the open deck of the 97+ models don't hold boost well). Just be aware that you are talking about almost 1k in swap difference.


okay, I think I can get the F22b DOHC for lower price than H22. So as you said, I can run more boost on that stock internals??? Plus, for the differences $$ between H22A and F22B, I can use that money to build up that F22B so that It'll run safer?

Also, will I be able to achieve my goal with that setup? Because I have no idea how much I can run on that F22B safely. For the H22A, 260-280whp is safe for the stock internals. And that alone should put me in the mid to early 13s.
 
The f22 dosent demand a resleeving like the h23 and h22, which both aren't safe on the sleeves much farther than 275hp. I've seen two people run this setup at 11lbs daily driven with no problem on a t3/t04e. This will be enough for your horsepower demands, just get a set of drag radials for the track or somthing really sticky for street (Toyo RA-1, Potenza, Prada Spec-II).

Your main weakness will be the conrods. If you are doing a rebuild, then forged pistons, sleeves, and conrods should let you safely run up to about 325~. Anymore will need work on your valvetrain.
 
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