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hotrex returns, step one of the 400 plus whp build *pic**UPDATED BLOCK

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by hotrex, Oct 15, 2005.

  1. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    WELL WELL WELL after about 6 months of "taking a break" from turbo hondas, i got that damn itch again. i started stumbling on sick deals, and i had some loot and went for it. since the deals were so good. i decided to shoot for 400whp on a 1500 dollar setup inlcuding the built motor and turbo kit. so far i am way below budget.

    here she is, the filled b16a block. just got done pouring it.
    the goods needed to fill your block, total cost, 40 dollars. ( i get the devcon for a sick discount through work)
    [​IMG]
    motor on stand, leveled to perfection, cleaned, sanded and ready for salt.
    [​IMG]

    look at the precision leveling products., yup thats the haynes Xtreme civic manual...
    thats about all its good for, that and a good laugh
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    the salt poured and meausred using my mad sicc hacksaw blade.

    [​IMG]
    and last but not least, just about a full pound of devcon later, the finished product. tomorrow i will update with the coolant holes drilled and the salt flushed.
    [​IMG]

    COOLANT HOLES HAVE BEEN DRILLED AND THE SALT WAS FLUSHED. all i have to do now is the final curing, by baking the block for 4 hrs at 200 degrees f
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    how much more boost do you think you can hold after?? and how do you know if the salt is level and how much salt??
     
  3. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Nice budget block guard. :)
     
  4. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    is that all that is????? never mind
     
  5. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    ill be running 25 psi on this setup.

    its way thicker than a std block guard. its alil over and inch thick. i meaused the salt with a hacksaw blade. you mark the blade from the top of the water pump hole to the top of the sleeve.

    thats how you check the level of the salt. its cheap, fucked easy, and drilled corectly youll never have a overheating issue.

    the salt, you pour it up to the top of the water pump hole.

    when you prep the block, it is VERY important you brake clean it.

    rough the aluminum where the epoxy fills with 80 grit sand paper, brake clean it again. then add the devcon.
     
  6. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

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    What the hell did you think it was?? lol...
     
  7. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    How critical is it to get the salt perfectly level? I would assume that you want to keep the same thickness of epoxy all the way through- is expansion and shifting the sleeve a concern if the epoxy thickness isn't the same all the way around?

    :werd:
     
  8. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    it took me an hr to get the salt good enough for me to feel comfortable. it just requires a bit of patience.
     
  9. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    Might I ask what is with the salt? [​IMG]
     
  10. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    you need it to fill the 3/4 of the water jacket you dont fill. you fill with salt up to the top of the water pump hole.

    3/4 of the jacket is not filled, so how elese are you gonna make a mold. after it dires, you drill cooling holes, and run water throug hthe jacket, after you unscrew the freeze plug. the salt desolves. easy clean out.

    make sense now??
     
  11. ripperbone

    ripperbone angry bear

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    wow thats a idea i never would have thought of
    :thumbsup: to you
    keep us posted on how well it works
     
  12. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    theres a sticky post on hmt in the forced induction section specificalyl for this. its done with good results.

    beau was running 32psi in his drag crx on the same setup i just did.
    with no issues.
     
  13. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Ok, so being level is very very very important then. :)
     
  14. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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  15. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    i thought it would go down lower, which it does...never mind i thought anyone would just buy a guard not spend 1+hrs making one....


    but it looks crafty...cant wait to see the rest of the process....good luck
     
  16. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    i just finished it, ill post up a pic in a minute.
     
  17. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    :thumbsup:

    This is actually better in quite a few respects. You don't have to worry about a foreign piece of metal possibly shifting your sleeve once you install it, there's no rattling, and there's no need to weld it to get a proper installation like you should do with a drop in block guard. As long as the epoxy can hold up to the temperature that the water jacket sees, it's superior in almost every way to a drop in block guard.
     
  18. swanny

    swanny Senior Member

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    Damn, I've never seen a DIY block gaurd. :thumbsup:
     
  19. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    damn skippy, weld in block guards are thinner, and u need to weld em in, which means u need to bore and surface your block..

    fuck that.
     
  20. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    hot rex you seem to know your shit where are you located I might need some help with my boost project :mrgreen: .
     
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