hotrex returns, step one of the 400 plus whp build *pic**UPDATED BLOCK

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damn skippy, weld in block guards are thinner, and u need to weld em in, which means u need to bore and surface your block..

fuck that.

i just put mine in and torqued the head down....hmmmm....what could happen????.....i dont drive it at all...only to the track and back...(whenever i get it started)....
 
you cant do that. the block guard is going to fuck up. they are designed to weld in and then you need to hone/bore your cyls and dredeck the block.

i wouldnt run that car at all like that. take it back apart and do it right.
 
is eriously rather not run anything than a weld in block guard.

try the filler, its cheap easy and will work just fine.
 
i am going to call the machine shop that put in the ls slugs back in.after the pr3s meted a ring landing..he had mentioned something about the block guard and i payed him to bore and intall pistons, deck the block and shave the head after the guard was in....he might of fixed it....ill have to call...
 
I plan on filling one of my blocks over the winter (d16a6 or b18a1) and have noticed that a lot of people doing this are having trouble getting the devcon from grainger because they "only sell to other businesses". This place does not require anything like that as far as I know. And at $40 per lb it doesn't seem too bad of a price.

I have a few questions that I have yet to find solid answers to:

How far below the deck do you pour the salt? ie: 2 inches below the deck, etc...?

How far below the deck do you pour the filler? ie: 1/4"....?

Would it be better to use sugar instead of salt, based on the corrosive properties of salt?
 
heres how you get around grainger "only selling to businesses" find a business that they have an account with, get their phone number. and when you go there, give them the business number, and pay cash. thats what i did, lol.
 
hey dirt, im guessing you didnt read page 1... all the steps to doing this are there.....

i have access to all the business only sellers, through my work. we have accounts with grainger, and applied in hartford also carries it. i got it from applied.
 
I read page one, but I also searched around on this and other websites and different people are going to different depths with the filler, just wondering if one way is better than another.

There aren't any graingers in my area that I am aware of and I don't know anyone who buys from them, hence why I was looking for it online at other retailers.

Sorry if I may have overlooked something, but I'd like to know everything I can about this before I start dumping shit into my block.
 
now, here's the thing....
i want to dispell the myth about the overheating issue....
if done right, you will have no problems at all.
i have drove my car for 100 miles so far w/ no T-stat and the gauge hasn't went above C. i also can just barely feel any heat comming out of the vents. so if worse come to worse, and you are getting hot w/ the T-stat installed, remove it and you will see a temp drop.

he's runnning his car with no tstat?
what most people don't know is that running no thermo will make your temp gauge show cooler, but its not necessarially making your motor run cooler
the water is passing through the block so fast that its not as effective at cooling the block...

so the water is staying cooler, thus showing a cooler temp range on the temp gauge, but its not an accurate measure of the block temp...

any opinions?
 
Get a couple of thermocouples and a flow meter and plot flow verses heat transfer rate. :)
 
you run the risk of a cold seize as well without a t stat. one of the main purposes of T stat is to allow the block to warm up to operating temp with the engine internals (ie. pistons) if you run no T stat then what happens is your pistons still heat up because of the compression (compression = heat) so your pistons thermally expand and the cylinders are not given a chance to warm up as well. so picture this. piston gets hot and expands, cylinder stays cold and whoops, there goes your piston to cylinder clearance!. if you want more flow intall a high flow t stat, or get one that opens a bit earlier to help drop temp, but you need that restriction of flow on warm up! :)
 
yeah yeah i read that, i was answering his "any opinions" statement, thought id add a bit of healthy info so ppl dont misunderstand and run no thermostat, i would never do that! thats a no no in the automotive world!



hey hotrex, not trying to thread jack but hows my manifold looking??
 
nope never said anything of the sort. i had a shipment of flanges come in warped, so it put me back a bit. by next week your mani will be ready to go.
 
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