House rebuild thread #23569903

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lol Putting in paver patios/walkways/driveways is my "profession". Whats really sucks is when you have to move 10 cubes in a day...
 
nice.


what are you siding the garage with? I might be of assistance. I'm a construction nerd.
 
nice.


what are you siding the garage with? I might be of assistance. I'm a construction nerd.

normal vinyl siding...

And I got another estimate today, nothing in writing, but the house, garage, and shed might run about $12K's for the siding, windows @ $180 each, roof on the house for $4K's....

So I think that might be the low end of the job scale....the first estimate was the top of the line siding and windows only for $39K's. :ph34r:
 
I thought it was 25k? Now I really now that other contractor was smoking some funny stuff...

Also, why not get some stone that didn't need some much cutting to get a uniform edge? Not to mention the waste that is going to be created if cutting...If you're leaving the edges like that, then I would create two more rows. The rule of thumb for walkways is to have it comfortable for two people to walk on the path side by side at the same time. Not that it matters, just might be more appealing and easier to go down, especially when drunk ;)
 
well, on the tree side, I'll try to get one more row of stones, and the hill side will be filled in with topsoil and grass seed tossed on. should be flush and lawn mower friendly.
 

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I just showed the wife that pic, and she said she was thinking of buying me a stone saw and some more pavers to cut up.... :ph34r::D


whats a good saw to get these cut?:confused:
 
you might want to look into a wet saw rental?

price tag on this is 5K

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you might want to try doing holes with a masonary bit and hammer drill and then wacking it with a hammer...
not sure on how "clean" you want the edges to be
 
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Just a tad more progress this week...

basement is about 75% cleaned out...and almost ready for shit to go up...like something for the floor and walls and ceiling...right now I'm thinking about just pouring a slab of concrete to level it up, and to seal the floor so I can get rid of the radon exhaust, and then stucko the walls or mortar them flush like I was doing 2 years ago...and just paint them. then filling in the ceiling voids with insulation and sheet rocking them...so I can sound proof the basement from the house a tad. that might end up being this winters project.

but the walkway is going slow, and the shed build up is going slow...I guess I'm stuck on building it right the first time and never touching it again. Thus the switch from the 4x4's to the 2x10's.....now to level it tomorrow, tack the floor boards on and start framing the walls.

The highest part of the shed that is off the ground will have a double door setup, (just the perfect hiegt for a loading dock and some ramps for the lawnmower.) and the side closest to the garage will have a window, and the side towards the yard will have a door and maybe two windows. :D

welp...time for some more pics.

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umm.... No simpson ties holding the floor to the pillars?

make sure you pressure block or use simpson ties for those joices. Finally, glue the shit out of your sub floor.
 
you didn't connect the floor to the piers? Please do so before you take one more step! Also, where is the ramp going into the shed? it looks like you have like 3' on the back side to get the ramp to meet w/the floor...

And it looks like you're doing like 5 projects at once - why not finish one before moving to the next? At the least, you'll get a sense of accomplishment...
 
the shed at my parents house is resting on cinderblocks. its not bolted down at all.

the weight inside held it down, even through hurricane gloria in 1986. she still stands. unbolted.
 
The neighbors play house is the same way, built 5 years ago...and it hasn't moved a mm. a Fixed structure on the property is taxable, right now the building permit I pulled for this classified it as a tool shed. tossing a bottle jack on the frame to shim it up for thermal expansion and land erosion/settling is perfect to extend the life and the frame will not warp and shift. If I was building it to be a livable structure, then I would go all the way out and make the sono tubes go down below the frost line, which in the cities code is at 41"...

City of Meriden building code.
Frost Protection. Except where otherwise protected from frost, foundation walls, piers, and other permanent supports of buildings and structures shall be protected from frost by one or more of the following methods.
blah blah blah.

Exceptions:
1. Freestanding accessory structures with an area of 400 square feet(37m^2) or less and an eave height of 10 feet(3048 mm) or less shall not be required to be protected.
2. Decks not supported by a dwelling need not be provided with footing that extend below the frost line.


and seeing that we're not in Hurricane Alley, Tornado Alley, or Earthquake prone area. No real need to go over board for a tool shed. I"m kinda going overboard already on the base...it's prolly strong enough to park a car on.

and for the ramp... Five Star Ramp — 1000-Lb. Capacity, Arched | Arched Ramps | Northern Tool + Equipment
 
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