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How can i fix this

Discussion in 'Body / Exterior / Interior / Cosmetics' started by 92CHB, May 14, 2004.

  1. 92CHB

    92CHB Senior Member

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    I just picked up my 92 dx about 3 weeks ago and i noticed a little bondoing. So today i did a little exploring with my grinder and found this...
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    Now i am not too sure how to deal with this. I thought of cutting/grinding out all the rust and fiberglass screening it on the outside panel and under the wheel well panel. Or i though about giving up and sending it to a shop in town and fixing it(which i really dont wanna do cuz it gets very expensive).I also thought of getting some sheet metal and forming it since i can rent a welder from a local rental shop but i am not too sure if i can make it look close to original. So I guess i am just asking you guys for your opinions on what to do. thanks :worthy:
     
  2. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    I plan on figerglassing my rear quarter pannels that are even worse than those. You could use another civic as a template to make the FG fit the contours of the body.
     
  3. smooth_criminal

    smooth_criminal Senior Member

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    if your not good at welding then definatly ffiberglass it. With fiberglass you can make a mistake and fix it, Wleding is not so forgiving. But make sure that you cut out all of the rust get every little inch of it or i will just come back again
     
  4. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    welding>fiberglass

    That spot isn't that bad. If you can't weld, then cut out the worst of the rust. Use a quality rust converter on the rest. Make sure you descale any rust that is left behind before using the converter. After that, fiberglass inside the fender and outside the fender. Make it smooth.


    Sorry about your luck hommie. I'd be pissed if I were sanding down a panel and found a filled in hole like that. That sucks.
     
  5. 92CHB

    92CHB Senior Member

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    thanks for the info. but whats a rust converter? is that the same as a rust remover that i can find at my local advance auto parts? Also with the fiberglassing would you guys reccomend screening it or packing the hole with that kitty hair stuff then screen it or just the kitty hair. I wanna do a good job since i am probably gonna get the car repainted entirely. thanks again!
     
  6. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    If you want to do a good job DO NOT FIBERGLASS IT. I have fixed many cars by doing this for cheap jobs and it WILL come back within 2 months. It is simply not worht doing if you want it to last what so ever. The only time I recommend doin this is if your just gonna sell it and dont really care. Now that being said you need to cut out about an inch or two around the hole then weld in a peice of sheetmetal, grinfd the weld down THEN fiberglass over the patch, shape it then put your plastic filler over the fiberglass. Now this as well will not last forever but will last the longest and give you the best end result. There is no complete cure to rust.
     
  7. 92CHB

    92CHB Senior Member

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    How much you think it would cost if a shop did it??
     
  8. swanny

    swanny Senior Member

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    including paint.. anywhere from $450-1000 just go get an estimate there almost always free.
     
  9. 92CHB

    92CHB Senior Member

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    i have heard of some where you can get replacement panels that aren't the whole rear quarter panel but just like the area over the tire well. Do you guys know of anywhere that sells panels like these? Also the under panel of the wheel well is that a big piece or is it like built into the whole body of the car? I have also thought of just getting a new rear quarter pannel from somewhere is that hard to remove/replace? Sorry for so many questions i am just trying to figure out my options.
     
  10. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    a junkyard.


    I have instant access to a welder, and the skills to pull it off. It wouldn't be hard. The biggest problem would be heat input. Welding makes heat. Heat warps panels. The piece would not be hard to weld in, for anyone with decent skill, but would have to be done slowly, and allowed to cool a little between spot welds.

    That being said. The local welding shop could use a scrap of sheet metal that would cost close to nothing. A welding shop would charge here about $70 per hour. They could probably do it in 1/2 hour, reliably, and you could go about your body work business after that.

    A rust remover is not a rust converter. A rust converter turns a light rust, even on rust free appearing steel, into a zinc primer. You can apply it liberally to kill rust, and go about your business.

    I'm with Driver1 on this. That is a step that would hinder the rust, and maybe kill it once it was almost gone. More of a band-aid if you are skipping on cutting out the rust.

    My .02
     
  11. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    yup right around this price depending on where its donte and what kind of quality owrk they do...and as xswany said just go get some estimates 99% of shops dont charge for estimates, and if they do dont bother gettin one from them
     
  12. 92CHB

    92CHB Senior Member

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    Thanks guys now i got a good idea of what to do and hopefully it will come out great. :D
     
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